BBS HD - Bottom Bracket Shim (73mm BB)

[Driverwanted]

The locking plate has 9 teeth that press into the left side of the frame's BB shell. Ti is very hard. I use a shortened hack saw to file in notches 40 degrees apart. I first mount tightly and in the most forward position, then and mark around the shell with a paint pen. This will secure the motor. The beer can idea came from Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance. One guy did not want to have a beer can shim to secure his BMW's handlebar. So it continued to move around.
View attachment 121349

ty !! if i tighten it up do you think it will at least mark the Ti ? to be sure i'm in the right spot ?

 

[mclewis1]

McMaster has no problem with individual orders (as opposed to company orders) and they ship to Canada. It's been a while since I've bought anything from them but I've had items shipped to my home in the US and now in Canada.

 

[tomjasz]

I have no TI experience, but reading the thread it feels like the issues are being over stated. That's just my sense after speaking with and emailing hundreds (or more) BBSxx kit builders while doing support for Luna and California eBike. Everytime I had a "creaking" complaint it was from the crank arms not being properly torqued.

 

[m@Robertson]

ty !! if i tighten it up do you think it will at least mark the Ti ? to be sure i'm in the right spot ?

It should!

As noted above, McMaster does sell onesies to the individual public. Thats what I am. I have no company affiliation. You just take it in the shorts on shipping costs. But if they have the thing you want, you have to take the good with the bad.

 

[PedalUma]

It should!

As noted above, McMaster does sell onesies to the individual public. Thats what I am. I have no company affiliation. You just take it in the shorts on shipping costs. But if they have the thing you want, you have to take the good with the bad.

That is right about getting what you want. @tomjasz does not shim, I do. I use a thin material. It might take three attempts to get the thickness exactly right. And I use Park Tool poly lube. All threads get lock-tight. Crank arms or pedals are often the source of a creak but I want the BB rock solid. Here are a couple of HD builds. Check the connections and housings for hygiene.

 

[PedalUma]

do you think it will at least mark the Ti ?

With Al it will mark, but not Ti. Put it on at the correct spot semi-tight. Then use some dots of paint where it corresponds. I think you will need to make a template from 3x5 type card stock so you get it right every 40 degrees. Then file in the nine equally spaced notches at 2mm like a clock face around the left edge of the BB shell. That is the thickness of the edge of a nickel. These are secret weapons you are learning.

 

[m@Robertson]

...i need about 8mm of spacers on the drive side to clear the stay , made a template based on caliper measurements.... this leaves me 10mm on the other side for the lockring... might be hard pressed to fit a second on there but i'll try.

Oh something I forgot that might be a godsend for you. You're talking about a limit on your space for the 73mm bracket. Lekkie has developed a solution specific to your situation:

Premium CNC Lekkie OneNut Red- SCRATCH AND DENT - Lekkie

Lekkie ONENUT is a full CNC machined motor lock nut with a built in locking function that replaces both stock motor locking nuts. Is this compatible with your motor? Download the user guide here.

lekkie.tech

It just came out. I'm not going there as the double-nut solution works for $4. But if I had the space constraints you do, and they prevented me from double-nutting... this is what I'd do to solve it.

 

[PedalUma]

10mm is all you need on the threads. Also there is the crank arm geo to consider. On one recent build I used 55mm fat bike arms to provide clearance of the wide chainstay. I do not know in your case. Just a thought. It also prevents a pedal strike on the rough stuff.

 

[tomjasz]

Lekkie has developed a solution specific to your situation:

Lekkie discussed introducing a mid drive kit with the support Bafanged never provided. I’m still dreaming about a BBSxx series style motor built to last, repair, and blow the competition away. I wonder why the Japanese company Bafanged stole the design from never moved forward.

 

[m@Robertson]

I wonder why the Japanese company Bafanged stole the design from never moved forward.

I've often wondered the same thing.

 

[Driverwanted]

Oh something I forgot that might be a godsend for you. You're talking about a limit on your space for the 73mm bracket. Lekkie has developed a solution specific to your situation:

Premium CNC Lekkie OneNut Red- SCRATCH AND DENT - Lekkie

Lekkie ONENUT is a full CNC machined motor lock nut with a built in locking function that replaces both stock motor locking nuts. Is this compatible with your motor? Download the user guide here.

lekkie.tech

It just came out. I'm not going there as the double-nut solution works for $4. But if I had the space constraints you do, and they prevented me from double-nutting... this is what I'd do to solve it.

Amazing i was planning to purchase some buzz bars anyways to help with the Q anyways , looks like there will be a second item in my cart aswell!

 

[Driverwanted]

another question... the casing by the chainstay is pretty thick , thoughts on some mild resurfacing of the backside of it to reduce the amount of spacer needed ? (#weightsavings lol) semi serious question , but i'm by no means married to this idea.

 

[PedalUma]

another question... the casing by the chainstay is pretty thick , thoughts on some mild resurfacing of the backside of it to reduce the amount of spacer needed ? (#weightsavings lol) semi serious question , but i'm by no means married to this idea.

I am having trouble visualizing this. Can you show us a photo of the 'casing by the chainstay'? Thanks.

 

[Driverwanted]

I am having trouble visualizing this. Can you show us a photo of the 'casing by the chainstay'? Thanks.

Here where the back of the gear housing would hit the chainstay if not spaced out ... if i wanted to use a smaller spacer and grind a small amount of the housing off where it lines up with the chainstay.

 

[PedalUma]

View attachment 121660

Here where the back of the gear housing would hit the chainstay if not spaced out ... if i wanted to use a smaller spacer and grind a small amount of the housing off where it lines up with the chainstay.

Got it. Removing a small amount of the motor housing casing sounds great, at the point of contact. Just make sure it is sealed. There is also a tool that I do not have, which will crank in a concave dent on the outside of the chainstay. I do not know what it is called. Others might. What a beautiful frame!

 

[Driverwanted]

Got it. Removing a small amount of the motor housing casing sounds great, at the point of contact. Just make sure it is sealed. There is also a tool that I do not have, which will crank in a concave dent on the outside of the chainstay. I do not know what it is called. Others might. What a beautiful frame!

I would prefer not to compromise the frame , my goal by using a combo of a spacer and creating a recess in the back of the gear casing would be to minimize the impact to the Q value. Lekkie Buzz bars are on their way so that will help a bit too.