Battery kill switch?

Sparky731

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
A buddy is have intermittent motor shut-off issues. We are guessing that this extra cable shown in the attached pix in both front and rear hand brake levers is a battery or motor disconnect switch. This is a class 2 bike.

Are we on the right track? Is this cable connected to a kill switch? And if so, is a small mis-alignment possibly causing the shut-off? Is it adjustable?

IMG_9821.jpegIMG_9819.jpeg
 
A buddy is have intermittent motor shut-off issues. We are guessing that this extra cable shown in the attached pix in both front and rear hand brake levers is a battery or motor disconnect switch. This is a class 2 bike.

Are we on the right track? Is this cable connected to a kill switch? And if so, is a small mis-alignment possibly causing the shut-off? Is it adjustable?

View attachment 159852View attachment 159853
It's not considered a battery kill... Typically referred to as a motor cut off.
You can easily troubleshoot the problem by unplugging them as they typically aren't necessary to satisfy the controllers input requirements. If you follow them from the brake lever towards the motor you should encounter a plug to separate
 
It's not considered a battery kill... Typically referred to as a motor cut off.
You can easily troubleshoot the problem by unplugging them as they typically aren't necessary to satisfy the controllers input requirements. If you follow them from the brake lever towards the motor you should encounter a plug to separate
If I understand you correctly, you recommend that we should unplug thereby creating an open in the circuit. This seems counterintuitive given it is the suspected “open” at the brake lever that seems to be causing the intermittent disconnect to the motor. Per your recommendation, wouldn’t it also be feasible to disconnect at the brake lever? But again, wouldn’t that only create an open in the circuit?
 
The break levers are not required by the controller so they are N.O. (normally open)
I agree as a safety measure a N.C. circuit would be supervised. . . but since many don't use them the default is N.O.
So if you suspect the break lever the easiest thing to do is unplug it.
Some displays actually show an icon when the lever is pulled, so that can be a clue as well.
Have you checked all connections for loose, bent or corroded pins?
 
The break levers are not required by the controller so they are N.O. (normally open)
I agree as a safety measure a N.C. circuit would be supervised. . . but since many don't use them the default is N.O.
So if you suspect the break lever the easiest thing to do is unplug it.
Some displays actually show an icon when the lever is pulled, so that can be a clue as well.
Have you checked all connections for loose, bent or corroded pins?
Thanks for your replies. One more clarification: You state the brake lever switch as normally open. However, as soon as either brake lever is pulled, the motor stops. This would indicate the lever switch to be normally closed. Without being argumentative, your description seems opposite of our perceived operation. Also, the LBS claims everything is OK.
 
I have a Pedego in the shop right now. The left cutout lever was the issue. Everything looked normal but no go. I unplugged it and everything works, just don't apply the motor and the brake at the same time. Kids in the snow used to do that with front hubs. I cleaned that bike. Now it gets new cables and housings, a trigger shifter, gears, chain, and calipers.
 
However, as soon as either brake lever is pulled, the motor stops. This would indicate the lever switch to be normally closed.

Turning ON the switch (closing it) turns OFF the motor.

It sounds like your switch is turning ON when it isn't supposed to.
It's only supposed to turn ON when you grab the brake lever.
 
Thanks for your replies. One more clarification: You state the brake lever switch as normally open. However, as soon as either brake lever is pulled, the motor stops. This would indicate the lever switch to be normally closed. Without being argumentative, your description seems opposite of our perceived operation. Also, the LBS claims everything is OK.
With controls things can be operated by a N.O. or N. C. switch or input.
Current is not going through the lever, it's just a signal. So when the lever is pulled a signal is sent.
 
It is funny, I just replaced the levers on a RAD moments ago. The colors of the connectors, yellow, were the same but it was girl to girl, so I had to chop and solder after figuring which color wire went to which, because the wires were different. The bike had fallen over and tweaked one of the levers so it got bound up and wouldn't close all the way. I had to do both because the lever colors were mismatched. Who knew I would be discussing bondage and girl to girl when discussing bikes?
 
It is funny, I just replaced the levers on a RAD moments ago. The colors of the connectors, yellow, were the same but it was girl to girl, so I had to chop and solder after figuring which color wire went to which, because the wires were different. The bike had fallen over and tweaked one of the levers so it got bound up and wouldn't close all the way. I had to do both because the lever colors were mismatched. Who knew I would be discussing bondage and girl to girl when discussing bikes?
I did! 🤣🤣🤣
 
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