Bafang's Proprietary Battery Port?

I've adapted a few chargers to use my DIY Charge adapter mentioned above by cutting the cable of the proprietary charger somewhere between it and the battery and soldering in a male and female of something more standard like an XLR or XT60. Then matching any other charger with the same.

Curious... take a look at the charger cable itself and see if the conductor count is printed on it. Usually in the same sentence as the AWG
My proprietary Zen battery has a similar but different 3 pin connector...
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... but on inspection the cable is only a 2 conductor (2C) so the 3rd pin does nothing.

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Same goes for the XLR chargers I've come across. So some of the information above is incorrect... at least in eBike applications
If using an XLR this is the correct Pin Out for a charger. The illustration given above is for audio applications.
Pin 1: Positive
Pin 2: Negative
Pin 3: n/a
XLR-Pinout-3-pin.jpg

The wires are typically 16awg or smaller... so the soldering is pretty easy. If you don't have any soldering skills, any electronics repair shop can
 
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It turns out that Northeast Battery Systems owner Kevin has been trying to source Cusmade 1103B connectors for two years with no luck.
Cutting one off a charger seems to me to be an overly expensive option...
 
It turns out that Northeast Battery Systems owner Kevin has been trying to source Cusmade 1103B connectors for two years with no luck.
Cutting one off a charger seems to me to be an overly expensive option...
I don't think you're understanding what I'm suggesting.
You're not trashing your charger.... You're making the connector available to use on another charger as well as the one you are cutting it from.
You can do this for less than you'd pay for the Cusmade.. and that you'd still have to solder up some type of adapter for anyway.
 
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,.. and that you'd still have to solder up some type of adapter for anyway.

I gave up trying to solder 12 gage wire and bought a bunch of these high power but connectors,..


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They come in different types and sizes,..



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I don't like to trust crimped connections, but these things look like you can snug them up "Farmer Tight" with a cheater bar on the 4mm Allen key. 😂




I bought a variety pack of these things too,..


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I'm not sure how good they're gunna work ??
I'm picturing 6" of insulation on the wire melting off before the solder melts. 😂
 
I gave up trying to solder 12 gage wire and bought a bunch of these high power but connectors,..


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They come in different types and sizes,..



View attachment 188241View attachment 188242



I don't like to trust crimped connections, but these things look like you can snug them up "Farmer Tight" with a cheater bar on the 4mm Allen key. 😂




I bought a variety pack of these things too,..


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F8n



I'm not sure how good they're gunna work ??
I'm picturing 6" of insulation on the wire melting off before the solder melts. 😂
Crimping has been proven to be superior to soldering especially for larger wires. Quality tools and hardware required. Personally I'm not a fan of set screw terminals, especially if they don't use a sandwich plate to push against the wire. Over tightening a direct set screw on small wire will destroy it.Then add that small guage standed wire should be tinned, especially if finely stranded.
As for the Heatshrink solder butts... They are supposed to be using a low temperature solder so cooking the insulation shouldn't be an issue. That said I have some myself but still haven't had an opportunity to try them.
 
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I use most of the products shown above but for fine wire, solder & heat shrink works best for me. A good soldering station and a product like this makes the task much easier:

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I'm not a fan of those heat shrink solder connectors. They are difficult to heat properly and the solder doesn't hold well unless the wire is perfectly clean. When I'm forced to use them, I tin the wire first.
 
I use most of the products shown above but for fine wire, solder & heat shrink works best for me.

That's always worked for me.

My Tektro brake switches had some weird 2-pin Julet connectors that I couldn't find anywhere.


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I didn't want to cut the connector off because I was worried about having enough wire length to work with, so I soldered ¼" of solid wire to the stranded wire from a normal red 2-pin Julet connector and plugged the "pins" into the connector.


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Then I coated the connection with dielectric grease and sealed it up with 4:1 shrink tube with glue.


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A good soldering station and a product like this makes the task much easier:

I bought a "Third Hand" to help with my soldering, but it was a cheap piece of crap, so I threw it out.


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I don't solder very often and didn't want to spend $50-$100 on a proper soldering station.


I'm not a fan of those heat shrink solder connectors. They are difficult to heat properly and the solder doesn't hold well unless the wire is perfectly clean. When I'm forced to use them, I tin the wire first.


I'll probably just stick with normal soldering and shrink tube.


With those big butt connectors, it looks like I can feed both 12 gage wires (2.7 mm wire diameter) through the entire connector even with them twisted together?
That way I've got both wires pinched under both screws.

I want to try and tin the wire a bit too before I screw it down, just to get some solder in the joint as well.
 
A good soldering station and a product like this makes the task much easier:

This soldering station is pretty cool too,..


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It's got a normal soldering iron with adjustable temperature, and a small heat gun with adjustable temperature as well.

I haven't sprung for that kit either, but I bought a 300 Watt heat gun for $14,..


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