I was riding offroad and hit a small/med rock hard enough with my pedal not only to bend the pedal, but also deflect me directly into a LARGE rock where I proceeded to go *ss over tea kettle (as Charlie Behrens puts it) and I have even had a few pedal strikes on pavement as well. Shorter crank arms would help a bit but then you're going to lose a bit of human torque for climbing. Shorter crank arms and a smaller front chainring is something that I am considering. OR a different bike altogether.
Aventure Pedal Grounds Out On A Turn
- Thread starter Raiderbrit
- Start date
Jason Knight
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Keene, NH
When I switched my Aventure to 170mm cranks I had my first pedal strike in over ten years, BUT, when I first got "bomber" (my old 26" cruiser) a decade ago when I upped it to a nice aluminum crankset I had strikes the first couple weeks until I trained myself on it. I'm no stranger to low BB's with long cranks. It's all a matter of adjusting to how the bike works.
With the motor it's like I forgot a lot of the basics of just riding a bike with longer cranks. Keep the pedals level in deep turns, do not pedal and let momentum do the work.
I do think that since I got the "small" Aventure that's part of it. I'm 5'4" tall and even the small is a bit dicey getting on and off, though their oddball twisted top tube can almost be used like a step-through... and in hindsight I kind of regret not getting the step-through! Which is odd since generally when I try to get on/off step-through bikes I fall flat on my arse. For me step-throughs are usually harder.
I did a quick compare to the other two 26" bikes in my garage. The BB of the Aventure is clearly a half inch closer to the ground on mine despite the larger diameter tires.
Overall I kind of wish the Aventure was about six inches longer. My swapping in cruiser bars ended up needing the longest gooseneck I could find.
With the motor it's like I forgot a lot of the basics of just riding a bike with longer cranks. Keep the pedals level in deep turns, do not pedal and let momentum do the work.
I do think that since I got the "small" Aventure that's part of it. I'm 5'4" tall and even the small is a bit dicey getting on and off, though their oddball twisted top tube can almost be used like a step-through... and in hindsight I kind of regret not getting the step-through! Which is odd since generally when I try to get on/off step-through bikes I fall flat on my arse. For me step-throughs are usually harder.
I did a quick compare to the other two 26" bikes in my garage. The BB of the Aventure is clearly a half inch closer to the ground on mine despite the larger diameter tires.
Overall I kind of wish the Aventure was about six inches longer. My swapping in cruiser bars ended up needing the longest gooseneck I could find.
Dingo
Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Corona Del Mar
I'm currently looking to change out my entire crank, and put 152mm or so arms on. My issue is I want something that looks the part, not something that looks like it was poured in someones garage! Can anyone suggest some nice looking ones that are 152 or so mm?
Jason Knight
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Keene, NH
I've found it exceedingly hard to find anything I'd consider "quality" that's less than 165mm in bare aluminum, which is my preference appearance-wise. I've a lady-friend I'm trying to size a bike to, and I'd be interested to hear people's advice on anything in the 152-160 range for 130mm chainrings.
And yeah, I know what you mean by "looking like they were poured in someone's garage". The "forged" cranks that come with the Aventure certainly fit that bill. Everything I've seen with the label "forged" on it seems to be overweight poorly cast rubbish.
- Pedaling through turns is poor riding technique on any bike, electric or otherwise and you'll sure as heck get a pedal strike. I'd recommend learning how to position your pedals for steep turns, and pedal only through gentle, sweeping turns.
- My Aventure's bottom bracket height and crank arm length is common, and exactly the same as many popular non motorized bikes from Trek, Specialized, etc. This is not an issue specific to Aventon.
- Shorter crank arms compromise pedaling efficiency, so if you're going to make that upgrade (downgrade?) just be aware of the consequences.
- All that said, there's no right or wrong. Well there is, but do what you need to do to your bike to make it yours and to make you ride it.
AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
Non event for me. I don't mind laying a motorcycle hard over at all, but a bike/e-bike? I don't trust the surfaces I'm on enough to do that. I learned at a very early age the resulting pavement rash is really painful for a few days....
Jason Knight
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Keene, NH
They don't have the mass or tire profile for it. I ride both, I know how -- and have -- laid a motorcycle down in a panic. I've never been able to accomplish that on a bicycle.
With a motorcycle it outmasses you at a minimum of four to one, and in some cases as much as eight to one. That mass is what lets it overcome the grip of the tires when you pitch it sideways.
Even a 70-80 pound e-bike lacks the raw mass to do that. In all but the smallest of children YOU are the high mass in the equation, and that's why in most cases when an accident happens you get thrown. All that happens -- and I found that out the hard way once -- when you try to "lay down a bicycle" is the tires dig in, it pitches over, and you get thrown. It just lacks the mass to overcome its own grip.
Honestly I can't think of any "real' bike accidents I've ever had that didn't involve me ending up several feet away from the bike. It's why I'm now a stickler for safety gear.
It's like what Clarence Boddicker said: "Can you fly... Bobby?"
Similar threads
