Aventure Bottom Bracket change...

Anyone found another bottom bracket that fits? I've ordered one of the $9 bikeinn brackets, but I'm skeptical. The other link above is for an ebay vendor who is on vacation.

Also, where did this size info (100/159.5) come from? I didn't see it anywhere on aventon info, and they haven't gotten back to me in eight days since I sent in a query.
Creaking isn't always from the bottom bracket cartridge. They usually last a long time and they are nearly impossible to install wrong. The right (chainring) side has left hand threads and the left side has usual right hand threads, so they can't be put in backwards. You'd have to ask your bike mechanic what he meant by his assertion that it was installed "wrong".
If you pull your bottom bracket cartridge the size is printed on it. If you have the same bike as Dingo this is the image of his that he posted
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Regarding the prior post that the following crank puller stripped the crank threads, that would only happen if it was used incorrectly.
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It is a universal puller for both ISIS and square tapered cranks. These universal pullers have a disc at the bottom to use for ISIS, you have to remove it to use for square taper cranks otherwise the puller will just press against the inside recess of the crank and not contact the axle. If you use brute force then it will strip the threads from the crank. The second puller he listed might work but it isn't the right tool for the job.
Honestly, this forum is filled with misinformation posted by people who have no idea of what they are doing. Take any information available on this forum with a huge grain of salt. If you do replace the bottom bracket cartridge just buy the right tools (available cheap on Amazon) and watch an instructional video or two on how to properly perform the procedure.
 
Does not the 159.5 refer to the length of the axle? Losing 2mm on either end should not be an issue for most of us.
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I use that style of crank puller too. It will strip the threads if you are in a hurry and forget to remove the bolts that holds on the pedals.
 
Does not the 159.5 refer to the length of the axle? Losing 2mm on either end should not be an issue for most of us.
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I use that style of crank puller too. It will strip the threads if you are in a hurry and forget to remove the bolts that holds on the pedals.
159.5 mm is the length of the axle. A couple mm of axle length can matter especially if needed to allow space for the cadence sensor to be installed.
I don't know what you mean by "It will strip the threads if you are in a hurry and forget to remove the bolts that holds on the pedals." you don't remove pedals to pull cranks, the only way that type puller will strip crank threads is if the ISIS disc isn't removed for use with square taper cranks. Even then you would have to a lot of force to strip the aluminum crank threads, that alone should indicate something isn't being done right. Maybe you mean if you don't remove the crank bolts (for cranks with recessed bolts rather than the more common hex wrench type) but even that would be hard to not recognize as the puller should only be able to grab a couple crank threads, if that.
 
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Its only 4.5mm (less than 1/4") longer than a 159.5 if that is what you already have - resulting in 2.25mm longer on each side which isn't much of a difference. I recently put a cartridge with a 7mm longer axle than stock on my 26" folder Dahon Jack to make room for a cadence sensor. I just put it back to a non-assist bike but I'm leaving the longer axle on the bike, doesn't make a noticeable difference to me.
 
Just found another seller that has them, though the price is so low it's sketchy.


A lot of EU sellers seem to have them too. This M-Wave brand seems to be the most common maker.

The bottom bracket creaking has been driving me crazy, so I ordered one of these on a lark. It arrived in 15 days (from Spain, I think), so not "fast delivery" to the US. Shipping was a couple bucks more than the BB. However, it looks and feels entirely legit.

I installed it and ...... no change. #$&*(#&$^!!

On the way home from work today I starting thinking about what else could be making BB-like creaking w/o it being the BB, and only when the motor starts up. Aside from the motor itself malfunctioning, the only thing that I could come up w/ was the rear axel moving around .... and that turned out to be the issue. Creaking gone.

Only cost is $20 and a half hour of my labor to find the real issue, which took 30 seconds to fix. Sigh. But at least we know that the bikeinn BB is legit.
 
Only cost is $20 and a half hour of my labor to find the real issue, which took 30 seconds to fix. Sigh. But at least we know that the bikeinn BB is legit.
That's a common problem troubleshooting this stuff, it often becomes an expensive case of whack-a-mole.
 
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