Aventon Level - inconsistent power delivery

kb1gra

New Member
Hi all,

I have a new Aventon Level with about 20 miles on it so far.

When riding it home last night, I noticed that in P3, the power would cut in and out - the motor would engage, shut off, engage again. It did not seem to matter what gear I was in or what cadence I was pedaling (I am an experienced road bicyclist and have no problem spinning the pedals) so by all accounts the motor should have consistently been delivering the same amount of assist. The battery is completely charged and I was going up a grade of about 6% at the time, so this was quite irritating.

Any suggestions as to how to troubleshoot this issue?
 
Hi all,

I have a new Aventon Level with about 20 miles on it so far.

When riding it home last night, I noticed that in P3, the power would cut in and out - the motor would engage, shut off, engage again. It did not seem to matter what gear I was in or what cadence I was pedaling (I am an experienced road bicyclist and have no problem spinning the pedals) so by all accounts the motor should have consistently been delivering the same amount of assist. The battery is completely charged and I was going up a grade of about 6% at the time, so this was quite irritating.

Any suggestions as to how to troubleshoot this issue?
Contact Aventon, sounds like a bad controller. If it were an electrical connection it would show up in all PAS levels and on throttle usage.
 
Not an Aventon, but I just went through something similar with one of my bikes. It would run around on low power levels just fine. When asked for something more serious, it would shut down completely. Even the display would shut down. Turn it back on, and everything was fine. Did this several times - then I noticed my battery wasn't totally seated. Unlatched and reset that, and we've been in business since.

Point being, it COULD be a loose connection. That could be something you could have a look at while waiting for Aventon. Pull and reseat all the connections you can find, making sure they are fully seated....
 
Contact Aventon, sounds like a bad controller. If it were an electrical connection it would show up in all PAS levels and on throttle usage.
I agree with this assessment which is why I wrote off the connection as being the issue - I rode the bike for over an hour in assist 1 and 2 without issues over two different days, then this happened with PAS3 on the second day.

I did a little more troubleshooting and I do suspect the controller as there is an issue in PAS2 where the same thing is happening on a much smaller scale, where it will cut out for about half a pedal stroke and come back on.

I heard mutterings that there is a 6 mosfet controller that fits in the downtube of this bike and wondering if I should just buy a replacement controller with more PAS levels and a new display and fix it myself. Have not heard the most amazing things about Aventon support.

 
If it comes down to it, @Tom@WashDC and I both are KT fans. I would just caution it is not going to be a direct plugin. Afterward, you will not just have one of the better controllers available, you will very likely have a much better understanding of what makes your bike go....
 
If it comes down to it, @Tom@WashDC and I both are KT fans. I would just caution it is not going to be a direct plugin. Afterward, you will not just have one of the better controllers available, you will very likely have a much better understanding of what makes your bike go....
I’m an electrical engineer, so I think I can figure it out with possibly a little help from someone who has wired one up before, in the absence of a wiring diagram…
 
I’m an electrical engineer, so I think I can figure it out with possibly a little help from someone who has wired one up before, in the absence of a wiring diagram…
You're very likely an excellent candidate for the project. And you're right, even though wiring diagrams are scarce, if you understand hall sensor wiring you should be in good shape. I would recommend you consider only the KT models with waterproof connectors for simplest possible installs, and make sure the motor connector matches. The 6 mosfet controller in your link is often refereed to as the KT 20A (20 amp max rating) which is the newest revision of the 17A that's been around for a while. I have a 17A in one of the wife's 500's and it does a fine job. Have never been left wanting. The other 500's (we have 3 of them) both have the KT 22a. I would offer that the 22/25a is a 9 mosfet version that's only slightly bigger (longer).

You should know some of these are offered with a "light wire". Nice, because the power is switched with the "up" button, but the downside is it is not fused ore protected in any way, and has a very low capacity. Point being, it's best used to power a relay.... Here's a link to an outfit showing some of the KT models, which is the only reason I'm sharing it. No idea regarding the vendor. I get my stuff from Amazon, with a close eye on expected delivery dates.

 
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You're very likely an excellent candidate for the project. And you're right, even though wiring diagrams are scarce, if you understand hall sensor wiring you should be in good shape. I would recommend you consider only the KT models with waterproof connectors for simplest possible installs, and make sure the motor connector matches. The 6 mosfet controller in your link is often refereed to as the KT 20A (20 amp max rating) which is the newest revision of the 17A that's been around for a while. I have a 17A in one of the wife's 500's and it does a fine job. Have never been left wanting. The other 500's (we have 3 of them) both have the KT 22a. I would offer that the 22/25a is a 9 mosfet version that's only slightly bigger (longer).

You should know some of these are offered with a "light wire". Nice, because the power is switched with the "up" button, but the downside is it is not fused ore protected in any way, and has a very low capacity. Point being, it's best used to power a relay.... Here's a link to an outfit showing some of the KT models, which is the only reason I'm sharing it. No idea regarding the vendor. I get my stuff from Amazon, with a close eye on expected delivery dates.
Thanks! I am looking at this 20A because I think, looking at the dimensions and the existing controller with a bit of research, I think this 20A fits in the current space occupied by the controller.

I can't find a decent source for the 20A, I may have found it on aliexpress, but to confirm - if I get the 22A, I want the sinewave version, and the display type has to match the connector eg if I choose WP connectors I need the WP model display? Do I also need the 1 to 4 cable, it seems like I would?
 
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