Aventon level adjustable riser 90 or110

Mr Jimmy

New Member
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USA
Looking to sit more upright. I’ve read conflicting reports that a 110 adjustable riser while raising up your bars will not give you much angle back due to length of front brake cable. This old guy just needs to sit more upright. what have you done 90 or 110 Thank you. I’m new to this site so still navigating my way around . Looks like great resource
 
I think you are asking us to predict if your front brake cable will be long enough? If so, it's pretty much impossible to predict. You have to try it and see.

I would note that getting a longer universal cable and installing that if your original is too short isn't that big a job. It's done all the time.
 
I had the same problem (also have a Aventon Level stepthrough) , brought a 90mm adjustable stem headstock along with a 31.8 handlebar with a 90mm rise. Big difference, I can easily sit upright. Not a problem putting on brakes or accessories. I may cut the handlebar a little because the new one is 1 1/2" longer than the old one.

handlebar - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0956QBZ9Q?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Adjustable handlebar stem - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09C4KVJNT?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
 
I had the same problem (also have a Aventon Level stepthrough) , brought a 90mm adjustable stem headstock along with a 31.8 handlebar with a 90mm rise. Big difference, I can easily sit upright. Not a problem putting on brakes or accessories. I may cut the handlebar a little because the new one is 1 1/2" longer than the old one.

handlebar - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0956QBZ9Q?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Adjustable handlebar stem - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09C4KVJNT?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
Thank you
 
I think you are asking us to predict if your front brake cable will be long enough? If so, it's pretty much impossible to predict. You have to try it and see.
Unless of course he's asking if anyone else owning one has done the same type of thing. Which I have. I have radically changed the "stance" of my Aventure.

I did a taller "double shoulder" fork to increase the rake, a very long stem because I switched to cruiser bars so I'm not doing the "crotch rocket" stance that seems to be all the rage with the kids and their butt floss seats.

It was RIGHT at the edge of the front hose length in that it was basically a straight run from bar to caliper, and the rear does not have a lot of slack, but it is workable in both cases.

This was rideable, but begging for something to snag the front brake hose. I was surprised, I thought the rear was going to be the bigger issue.

Ihud.jpg

I was going to make custom length hoses, but realized that since I had both ordered a complete set of the brakes because mine arrived nonfunctional, and Aventon then (finally) sent me replacements of their own, I have multiple spare rear cables. So put one of those on the front. It's about a foot longer than needed on the front-end, but that's easy enough to tuck away in the taller "double shoulder" fork I used. I should grab a pic of that and the other current setup stuff like ditching that garbage over the tube bag.

I also ditched the wrap-around cable management for some "Cad Bane breathing tube" conduit. It's just easier to add/remove/move stuff around with.

It's a much better stance overall if you're not going to be "sending it" down stunt trails like a nut with a death wish.

I do honestly feel like the Aventure -- or at least the small I got -- could stand to be about six inches longer with about five to eight degrees more rake. But to be fair I wanted a fat tire street bike, not a downhill mountain crotch rocket. But all the things they put on these bikes are mountain bike parts.
 
I frequently find myself right at max extension on the front brake hose/cable when setting up my bikes.
 
I had the same problem (also have a Aventon Level stepthrough) , brought a 90mm adjustable stem headstock along with a 31.8 handlebar with a 90mm rise. Big difference, I can easily sit upright. Not a problem putting on brakes or accessories. I may cut the handlebar a little because the new one is 1 1/2" longer than the old one.

handlebar - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0956QBZ9Q?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Adjustable handlebar stem - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09C4KVJNT?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
Thank you
 
I frequently find myself right at max extension on the front brake hose/cable when setting up my bikes.
Something I've noticed in the past year of my return to caring about bike tech. Nobody overprovisions anymore. People are so obsessed with "sleek lines" and "cable routing" they're no longer applying sensible engineering principles. How dare we have an extra four inches of cable or hose looping out.

It's like my recent discovery that all these e-bikes -- and it seems like all of them -- don't put strain reliefs on their flipping cables! Gee, wonder how this happened:

brokenWire.jpg


As Scotty would say, you figure out what is needed, then you tack on an extra percentage just as a safety precaution.

But manufacturers are now so obsessed with cutting corners, and many bike owners so obsessed with artsy form-over-function trash, it's costing us durability, longevity, maintainability, and safety.

scotty.jpg

Regulation 42/15 - Pressure Variances on the IRC Tank Storage? Forget it! I wrote it. A good engineer is always a wee bit conservative, at least on paper. Just bypass the secondary cut-off valve and boost the flow. It'll work.

Always, ALWAYS calculate in a little wiggle room for when things go pear shaped. Were that form over function fanboys and bean counters understood that.
 
Something I've noticed in the past year of my return to caring about bike tech. Nobody overprovisions anymore. People are so obsessed with "sleek lines" and "cable routing" they're no longer applying sensible engineering principles. How dare we have an extra four inches of cable or hose looping out.

It's like my recent discovery that all these e-bikes -- and it seems like all of them -- don't put strain reliefs on their flipping cables! Gee, wonder how this happened:

As Scotty would say, you figure out what is needed, then you tack on an extra percentage just as a safety precaution.

But manufacturers are now so obsessed with cutting corners, and many bike owners so obsessed with artsy form-over-function trash, it's costing us durability, longevity, maintainability, and safety.


Regulation 42/15 - Pressure Variances on the IRC Tank Storage? Forget it! I wrote it. A good engineer is always a wee bit conservative, at least on paper. Just bypass the secondary cut-off valve and boost the flow. It'll work.

Always, ALWAYS calculate in a little wiggle room for when things go pear shaped. Were that form over function fanboys and bean counters understood that.
Speaking for myself, that tight front cable/hose situation mentioned is more like dealing with the hand you've been dealt. Further, yes, I like/appreciate a tidy set of cables! If I need a longer one to suit my riding position, that's not on the bike manf. that's on me!

If I were to take my bike to a dealer (NOT going to happen!) for a replacement cable, and they were to install something 24" too long leaving a big unnecessary loop or an unsightly tie wrapped gob, I would consider that to be of the poorest workmanship available. There's no excuse for that, as it could have been trimmed to fit easily by anyone that gives a darn about the quality of their work.

Some of these home built bikes with wires and cables sticking out everywhere, looks like they belong in a Linus cartoon strip....
 
Also remember that an adjustable stem can be used by placing the tightening bolts to the front or to the rear, which can add a couple of inches if needed or tilt back if so required, providing you have enough cable lengths etc.
Try both ways to see which you like and would work better for YOU.

Here are a couple of adjustable stems that have lots of angle adjustments for just about any direction you want to go:



Just make sure you get the proper size for the Handle bars and stem shank.
YMMV,
Tia,
Don
 
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If I were to take my bike to a dealer (NOT going to happen!) for a replacement cable, and they were to install something 24" too long leaving a big unnecessary loop or an unsightly tie wrapped gob, I would consider that to be of the poorest workmanship available. There's no excuse for that, as it could have been trimmed to fit easily by anyone that gives a darn about the quality of their work.
True enough, but is 3-4" of slack too much to ask for and/or find a way to hide? Especially given how much of this stuff gets run down through the tubes now? Much less the multitude of sins you can hide with wrap-on conduit.
 
Also remember that an adjustable stem can be used by placing the tightening bolts to the front or to the rear, which can add a couple of inches if needed or tilt back if so required, providing you have enough cable lengths etc.
Try both ways to see which you like and would work better for YOU.

Here are a couple of adjustable stems that have lots of angle adjustments for just about any direction you want to go:



Just make sure you get the proper size for the Handle bars and stem shank.
YMMV,
Tia,
Don
If I change add an adjustable stem, to my Aventon Level 2, will it give me a more upright comfort position? Also, if I add an adjustable stem will my built in headlight still work or do I have to get a handlebar mount headlight?
 
If I change add an adjustable stem, to my Aventon Level 2, will it give me a more upright comfort position? Also, if I add an adjustable stem will my built in headlight still work or do I have to get a handlebar mount headlight?
With those crotch-rocket straight bars, I'd say no amount of stem is going to fix the issue. I'd do both stem and some cruiser bars. Probably go for a wide comfort seat too since when sitting upright instead of the weight being on your perennial it will end up on your buttocks directed at your sacrum and coccyx. Narrow thin hard seats make sense if you're leaning way the **** forward, wide padded seats make sense if you're sitting upright.

But then I HATE the ridiculous back-breaking uncomfortable "leaning forward" position, butt floss seats, and all the other hot and trendy mountain bike stuff that is incompatible with comfort for someone my age, riding style, and physical limitations. Much less the sheer volume of nonsensical fairy tale nonsense -- running entirely contrary to anatomy like the whole "Sit bones" BS -- that seems to be all hot and trendy right now.

You want to ride seating upright, you pretty much need to swap to longer back-swept bars and a wider seat at minimum. Otherwise your coccyx -- or more specifically the coccygeal and sacric nerves -- will be screaming at you. Same way a wide seat while leaning forward can cause pain in the posterior cutaneous and sciatic nerves, as well as causing blistering and sores on the skin over the tractus iliotibialis. (Basically where your buttocks meets the thigh)

That so many people seem to think that leaning way the **** forward is the only road to comfort is really frustrating for those of us who just don't bend that way. More so when they're talking out their backside or blindly parroting marketing propaganda used to sell you stuff that doesn't work.

And yeah, I've been researching this further because the "narrow seat straight bars" "sit bones" stuff set off my bullshit alarm the first time I heard it, in a "/fail/ at basic anatomy" way. So much of it reeks of the same type of BS I dealt with as an accessibility and efficiency consultant when it comes to websites, with such mind-numbing asshattery as Tailwind, Bootstrap, React, and Vue. Marketspeak double-talk presented as authority, but easily debunked as lies with even the most cursory of inspection. Or "ergonomics" in the office like "standing desks", "ergonomic chairs", "ergonomic keyboards", and so forth. You'd be shocked how many people's pain or discomfort can be fixed with a better normal office chair, lowering the keyboard below the table to 1" over the thighs, switching to a tactile mechanical keyboard, moving the person back from the screen to around 3 feet MINIMUM, getting rid of laptops in the office, switching them to a "thumb style trackball" instead of a mouse, and instructing them to get up off their tuchas and walk around for three to five minutes three times a day.

Turns out I'm not the only one to call bullshit on it either.

 
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