It's a standard square taper bottom bracket, no reason why you couldn't. A freewheel with an 11t low gear is another option.I find I am in hi gear almost all the time. Would like to go a little higher at times, just wondering if anyone has done this already. Maybe 46 tooth?
Yes that is correct, the 130mm is the mounting diameter.Can someone in the know explain this?
https://www.amazon.com/Sram-Chainring-Force-Rival-Apex/dp/B005ELUNHK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1489510232&sr=8-3&keywords=46+tooth+chainring&th=1&psc=1
You can chose different chainrings in the drop down. Why does it seem like you can different teeth counts with the same diameter? 130mm with all sorts of different teeth counts. Is the 130mm the mounting pattern?
I have a Radwagon, so I didn't have any problem as it's wire doesn't exit the axle, can't help you there,, but the tool is fairly cheap if you do need to cut it. Park tool FR-1What do we have for a cassette now? With the wire coming out of the hub, I have seen some folks have issues removing the cassette - having to cut the tool in half to get er done. I did see a video where you can change the chainring without taking the BB apart, so there's that.
FYI, when I removed the OE freewheel it took major effort to break it free as the factory didn't grease the threads. It may be wise to hit it with some commercial quality penetrating lube the day before.Freewheel it is then. Not looking forward to takng that apart though!
The freewheel on the Rover is tricky, I think it's the same situation on the mini also. The wire for the motor comes out of middle of the hub there and is connected to the controller via a connector. The tricky part is getting freewheel tool pass that connector to get to the freewheel. I measured that connector at 18mm diameter.
I've seen people talk about splitting the freewheel tool, others talk about using method that destroys the old freewheel as seen on youtube. What I have in mind is making the hole in the freewheel tool bigger. That DNP freewheel tool linked above is supposed to have a 14mm hole. I should be able to take a small round grinding stone on a dremel tool and take it up to 18mm. It's going to be time consuming. But I think splitting a freewheel tool would be time consuming also.
Damn, I totally forgot about those types of tools. Just the ticket for those with the wire in the axle. Well done!Cassette removal tool I just remembered I had in the bottom of my bike tools
http://www.woollypigs.com/2011/10/meet-the-hypercracker/
I've used it on my older bikes, wondering how it would work on the RadRover & RadMini...
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From the article, it looks like there are a few other touring style freewheel lockring removal tools:
Found one on Amazon: Stein Mini Cassette Lockring driver 30+ bucks
Sang
Shimano cassettes and freewheels use the same tool. It would be a matter of finding one of the older style tools that go deep enough to engage the splines of a freewheel. This type of tool has been used for a long time by touring cyclists.Is it a cassette or a freewheel? I was under the impression it was a freewheel. Would the cassette tool be a help?
Good news. I just received the above linked DNP freewheel tool from Amazon and the opening at the other end is just a hair over 18mm.It needs a deep well tool to remove it, https://www.amazon.com/DNP-Freewheel-Remover-Epoch/dp/B007AI1LGW/ref=pd_bxgy_468_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=PDTCADGZEX7CK4JQ2041