Allant+ 8s pedal removal

retiredNH

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
Some of us never got around to taking our bikes in for the 8s pedal recall last year. In my case, I took my new Allant+ in last year for service, but they never got around to the pedals. It's 1.5 hours away, and I haven't been back. Needless to say, I'm still alive and the pedals are still in place.

Flash foward 1+ year, and I want to put on better pedals (finally?). Has anyone removed the stock pedals themselves? I have the right sized allen socket, but it's only a 1/4 socket, and I'm not sure that would be sturdy enough.

I want to put on new pedals so I can install foot/toe fenders. The stock pedals make that impossible. Any pedal recommendations are highly welcome!

Thanks.
 
Some of us never got around to taking our bikes in for the 8s pedal recall last year. In my case, I took my new Allant+ in last year for service, but they never got around to the pedals. It's 1.5 hours away, and I haven't been back. Needless to say, I'm still alive and the pedals are still in place.

Flash foward 1+ year, and I want to put on better pedals (finally?). Has anyone removed the stock pedals themselves? I have the right sized allen socket, but it's only a 1/4 socket, and I'm not sure that would be sturdy enough.

I want to put on new pedals so I can install foot/toe fenders. The stock pedals make that impossible. Any pedal recommendations are highly welcome!

Thanks.
yes its not a big deal but maybe get a bigger wrench. the only reason they were recalled was they were not tightened enough. Chester peddles are nice and not too expensive https://www.amazon.com/RaceFace-Che...67739&sprefix=raceface+peddles,aps,170&sr=8-7
 
I really like these inexpensive ($28.99 shipping included) MTB pedals by Fooker. The pins make them nice and grippy, rendering toe fenders less necessary. They are very light weight and have a nice thin profile making pedal strikes less likely. I have these on my Allant 9.9S. They really match the black and red color scheme nicely. They do come in other colors.

s-l1600.jpg
 
When you remove them, remember that the right pedal (usually marked with an R) is conventional thread (righty tighty/lefty loosey) while the left pedal is reverse thread. (lefty tighty/righty loosey). Also hit the threads with some grease before installing them so they don't corrode in place on your cranks. They need to be just snug, not hard tightened on the cranks, as the act of pedaling serves to tighten them if they ever come loose.
 
When you remove them, remember that the right pedal (usually marked with an R) is conventional thread (righty tighty/lefty loosey) while the left pedal is reverse thread. (lefty tighty/righty loosey). Also hit the threads with some grease before installing them so they don't corrode in place on your cranks. They need to be just snug, not hard tightened on the cranks, as the act of pedaling serves to tighten them if they ever come loose.
Good advice. Does make me wonder how on earth pedals came out leading up to the recall last year? Whatever I get, if they have hex head bolts, I'll probably torque them. Need to get some use out of the wrench I bought... :)
 
Good advice. Does make me wonder how on earth pedals came out leading up to the recall last year? Whatever I get, if they have hex head bolts, I'll probably torque them. Need to get some use out of the wrench I bought... :)
they just did not tighten them properly. I think because they only used a allen key was why they were recalled.
 
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