Adding a second battery

rjbutler

New Member
I am considering adding second battery to my Juiced CrossCurrent S and am hoping for some advice from some of the experts here.

I currently have a 48V 12.8Ah battery and would like more range. The Dorado Plus batteries I've found from US suppliers max out at 12.8 which would be OK, but I'd need to carry it and swap it out when the first battery runs down. What I am thinking of doing instead is getting a rear rack mount battery or maybe a small triangle battery that I would use for longer rides and to improve range during the colder winter months

My question is 48V or 52V. From what I've read, I could connect another 48V in parallel as long as the two batteries have the same charge level. With a 52V I'd have to disconnect the stock battery and connect the new battery when the first runs down (or vice versa).

Is there enough advantage to a 52V battery to make it worth the extra hassle? Are there any potential gotchas to wiring a second 48V in parallel? I know it would likely void my warranty so I may wait until I'm close to expiration to do this, but I am planning ahead to the colder months.
 
I would just get a 48v19amp and be done with it, that way you still have the original as a back up, the 58v will only work if your controller is able to handle the voltage otherwise it will release the magic smoke and bad things might happen, mind you I am no expert at anything however my Teo Fat Bike has a 48v17 amp battery and it gives me (220lbs) a range of 50 miles per charge, using the pas 3 for assistance.
 
I'm not an expert either but I have heard of problems connecting two different batteries in parallel. I would carry a spare similar or equal to your OEM battery. You can either swap them when necessary or wire a switch to change without stopping.
 
The 52V battery will work fine.

Juiced always say that they have "designed" or "engineered" their 48V bikes to be 52V compatible, but in reality, 99% of the 48V ebikes on the market can handle 52V just fine.
https://www.juicedbikes.com/pages/52v-vs-48v-battery-packs-faq

Although that page says the 52V packs are backwards compatible, support says they don't work on the narrower frame of the CCS and the CCS no longer is listed on the 52V battery page as compatible (I am certain it used to be listed). I wonder if it's due to the same connectivity problem people were experiencing on the CCX's, maybe it's more pronounced on the CCS?

I will probably get a non-juiced battery due to the significantly higher prices. @Timpo, do you think the 52V would make a noticeable difference on hill climbing power or on power at the tail end of the voltage range? I don't really need extra performance during normal riding, but I do have a fairly steep hill that the bike struggles on with my 48V, especially once I get down to about 50% or less on the battery.

Thanks.
 
Too much trouble, effort and uncertainty for me. My second 48v 12.8 battery rides in an Arkel Tailrider and I swap them when they get low. Good for 60-80 miles depending on conditions. A lot cheaper than the 52v too. Good luck with your choice.
 
52V are a premium with added cells. A 52V starts out at 58.8V and soon drops to (48V rated)54.6 volts and only adds a mile or two in speed in my experience. I like 48V 17Ah packs best. And most recently I'm finishing a MAC with an EM3ev 36V 17Ah pack.

As to running two batteries, I prefer a 3-way switch to move between packs rather than fool with the issues when trying to run parallel. In my experience, many not so tech-oriented customers will make mistakes and damage batteries. We made our own bracket and mounted the switch with a voltmeter.

I have never bothered with the switches and voltmeter on all but the initial bike. It's just to easy to turn one battery off and the other on. KISS!

SURE as shootin' someone will know better and extol the advantages. I'd leave parallel packs to more advanced DIY fellas.

ALWAYS start with the biggest battery available. Obviously to late here, but good to remind buyers. Bigger "gas tanks" rock!

As always, YMMV!!!
 

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ALWAYS start with the biggest battery available. Obviously to late here, but good to remind buyers. Bigger "gas tanks" rock!

Yeah, hindsight. It was the biggest CCS battery when I bought it but I wish I’d gone with he CCX. At th time I wasn’t sure I’d commit to commuting every day rain or shine. The 12.8 is enough for my commute 2 times even using higher PAS so it’s fine, but I’d like to take longer rides on the weekend as well as run errands after work without battery anxiety

Thanks for the suggestions
 
th added cells. A 52V starts out at 58.8V and soon drops to (48V rated)54.6 volts and only adds a mile or two in speed in my experience. I like 48V 17Ah packs best. And most recently I'm finishing a MAC with an EM3ev 36V 17Ah pack.

As to running two batteries, I prefer a 3-way swi
52V are a premium with added cells. A 52V starts out at 58.8V and soon drops to (48V rated)54.6 volts and only adds a mile or two in speed in my experience. I like 48V 17Ah packs best. And most recently I'm finishing a MAC with an EM3ev 36V 17Ah pack.

As to running two batteries, I prefer a 3-way switch to move between packs rather than fool with the issues when trying to run parallel. In my experience, many not so tech-oriented customers will make mistakes and damage batteries. We made our own bracket and mounted the switch with a voltmeter.

I have never bothered with the switches and voltmeter on all but the initial bike. It's just to easy to turn one battery off and the other on. KISS!

SURE as shootin' someone will know better and extol the advantages. I'd leave parallel packs to more advanced DIY fellas.

ALWAYS start with the biggest battery available. Obviously to late here, but good to remind buyers. Bigger "gas tanks" rock!

As always, YMMV!!!
Hi Thomas, I also need that 3-way switch. Could you tell me where you bought it? Thanks Joe
 
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