a very brief review of a new bike (scott addict rc eride)

mschwett

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
it's been a rough few months for me with major health challenges that have led me to mothball my acoustic road bike - an s-works aethos which is by far the best cycling experience i've ever had, by a longshot. but riding such a bike at a reasonable speed on the steep hills of san francisco and the long hills of the rest of the bay area is no longer a good idea. i was on the fence between riding not at all, or resuming some road rides with enough assist to reduce my input to ±150w average over a long ride, at a heart rate of 80-90bpm.

i decided to see if there was a road bike experience close enough to what i'm now dearly missing, so i picked up a scott addict rc eride. this is a mahle x20 based bike, so of course i am a bit leery of the stability of the software and electronics. i currently still have a specialized turbo creo, heavily upgraded with carbon wheels, one piece cockpit, drivetrain changes, etc etc. it's a nice bike, but exemplifies the "jack of all trades master of none" problem with gravel bikes. the 1x drivetrain is not well suited to road riding, for one. although mine is down to 28lb or so, it still feels like a tank compared to the aethos.

i didn't like the color of the addict that came with the build i wanted, so i got the next tier down and changed out the cockpit, cranks, cassette, and am in the process of changing the saddle and seatpost. here's the bike :

1127-scott.jpg


it weight a bit under 24lb - so while it's lighter than the creo, 15% isn't so much different that you don't know it's an ebike. it has almost the same di2 drivetrain (a mix of dura ace and ultegra in this case) as my aethos with a 52-36 up front and 11-34 in the back. i was in between this size and the largest size, so i went smaller and put a 130mm one piece cockpit on it, which i like a lot. haven't fully set up my phone mount and a couple other details.

first impression was that the saddle SUCKS. i wasn't able to put my preferred s-works power romin saddle because of the carbon rails, so i'm waiting for a different post and clamp. second impression was that it feels just like a road bike, albeit without the magical flying carpet ride feeling of the aethos. the geometry (with the adjustments i made) is very similar, to within 15mm at all the touch points. the bottom bracket is about 10mm higher, which is the bigger difference, and the reach was shorter by default but with the 130mm cockpit it's basically the same. it's set up tubeless, 28mm, gp5000 s tr, running 60psi now (shop had it at 90 LOL) and i'm using the same speedplay titanium pedals as before.

some comparisons to the creo experience and general observations :

1) the "bike" drivetrain is way better for a road bike, period. nearly instant and smooth shifting even under load, and no motor effects on the drivetrain.
2) the extender battery is very similar. the internal battery is smaller - not an issue for me, but certainly part of the 4lb difference.
3) the mahle x20 rear hub motor is much, much quieter than the mahle mid-drive motor in the creo. not even a comparison there, for those who care. i haven't ridden the creo 2 with the new 1.2 motor which is supposed to be quieter.
4) the mahle app has a lot of features and conceptually is similar to the specialized app, but has that "written by people who are no good at software" feeling. i won't actually use it, but it refused to connect to my HRM, so i gave up after several tries, and then it just spontaneously detected it during a ride and asked me if i'd like to connect it lol. over the air firmware update worked well.
5) fully internal cable routing for everything is clean but will definitely make working on the bike much harder.
6) the fit and finish of some of the trim bits (like the magnetic headset cover on the one piece carbon cockpit) is maybe not quite as good as specialized.
7) the overall "integration" and experience is also not quite as polished as specialized - the branding of the app, the quantity of manuals and packaging from several different vendors, the quality of the scott and mahle websites etc leave a lot to be desired compared to specialized, which has certainly had some qualities rubbed off on them from their proximity to silicon valley.
8) there's a fully removable magnetic cover on the charging port which the shop told me will not possibly come off, they use it on eMTB and have never heard of it coming off, but i bet it'll come off or i'll lose it.
9) the default assist settings are way too high, with the lowest level resulting in a consistent 70-80 watts of power even when i'm not pedaling hard. this is surprising given the low output of the motor and the odd fact that the built in "power meter" seems to be way, way off, like not even close. i know what my power levels are at a certain heart rate and a certain riding situation to within maybe 10%, and the info mahle is using to calculate the assist is at least 25% low. it doesn't really matter - since the bike has a real road bike drivetrain i'll use a crank arm mounted power meter, but it's curious. the customization of the three built in assist levels is similar to specialized but with one additional variable for the rate of change of assist. i turned down the support factor and peaks and will continue tweaking.
10) had no problem at the higher support levels riding comfortably up 15-20% grades. will be interesting to see how the motor fares with long sustained climbs, but i'm not expecting it to be a problem given that i'm only looking for it to put out 75-100w for an hour in a situation like that.
11) like the creo, the bike transmits cadence and power data over the ANT protocol, but when using bluetooth uses proprietary protocols that only the mahle app can use. unsurprising but lame. the electronics seem virtually identical to the way a specialized SL bike works other than different labels for everything and an uglier UI.

finally - and this may be an important factor - i don't think the scott LBS network is very good in comparison to specialized. i have several very capable specialized dealers/shops within a short ride of home, and know them well enough to know what they know and what they don't. the shop i ordered this bike from is really great, nice, good selection of many types of bikes, but they do not see many of these, don't specialize in road bikes or e-bikes, and there were a couple mistakes that not even i would have made... like not adjusting the front derailleur's vertical position when changing to a crank with larger chainring! quick fixes, of course, but not confidence inspiring!

no exposed cables or hoses anywhere :D it's a nice greyish color with some irridescence. i do not like all the scott logos, but it is what it is.
1131-scott.jpg


a familiar and well loved drivetrain :)
1132-scott.jpg


with the range extender battery, which i intend to use infrequently, and find the cage so ugly that i removed it and will put it back on when i need it.
0358-scott.jpg


my conclusion so far is that this is a very niche bike, for people who want something as familiar to a super modern carbon road bike as possible but with a motor. it fills that bill. will it be reliable and versatile.... we'll see !
 
How’s the whole feel of the hub motor vs the mid drive going? I assume this thing is torque sensing as opposed to cadence?
 
Great reveiw. 👍

How does the X20's power delivery compare to the Creo's?
to be honest, it doesn’t feel that different. it “accelerates” to whatever power it’s aiming for a little faster in the higher power levels, which is noticeable, but adjustable. you can definitely sense that the motor is not producing tension of the chain, especially when shifting, letting off the pedals, coasting, etc.

i would say it’s equally smooth, and the above comments are splitting hairs.
 
what a difference a saddle makes. i was a little worried that the geometry of the bike was wrong for me, but it was just the stock saddle. not even going to bother putting it on eBay. 😄

still recovering from surgeries and medication/device adjustments but did a pretty nice 25 miles today. started with a full charge (236wH) and ended with 178wH, heart rate below 95 except for a minute or two here or there. the adjustments to the power levels are really very similar to the way specialized does it, and like specialized you can just change them on the phone while you're riding and watching the rider and motor watts in the app to see what happens. there is a barely audible thunk when the motor goes from being engaged to not, presumably a clutch of some sort. i also note that the bike thinks i'm going about .5mph faster at 20mph, assuming that iphone GPS on a dead flat, dead straight, completely open to the horizon on all sides road can be trusted, which i believe it can. it does not appear that there is any way to change this value - perhaps the dealer can, perhaps not. the range of tire sizes one might use on this bike is fairly limited, maybe a 2-3% variation, so i don't think that explains it!

in the assist modes i was primarily using (see image at bottom, 75% of ride in 1, 10% in 2, 1% in 3, 14% off) the motor is not audible. at the highest setting going slowly up a steep hill with no wind, a faint whine might be audible. a welcome change!

1141-addict.jpg


1142-modes.jpg
 
what a difference a saddle makes. i was a little worried that the geometry of the bike was wrong for me, but it was just the stock saddle. not even going to bother putting it on eBay. 😄

still recovering from surgeries and medication/device adjustments but did a pretty nice 25 miles today. started with a full charge (236wH) and ended with 178wH, heart rate below 95 except for a minute or two here or there. the adjustments to the power levels are really very similar to the way specialized does it, and like specialized you can just change them on the phone while you're riding and watching the rider and motor watts in the app to see what happens. there is a barely audible thunk when the motor goes from being engaged to not, presumably a clutch of some sort. i also note that the bike thinks i'm going about .5mph faster at 20mph, assuming that iphone GPS on a dead flat, dead straight, completely open to the horizon on all sides road can be trusted, which i believe it can. it does not appear that there is any way to change this value - perhaps the dealer can, perhaps not. the range of tire sizes one might use on this bike is fairly limited, maybe a 2-3% variation, so i don't think that explains it!

in the assist modes i was primarily using (see image at bottom, 75% of ride in 1, 10% in 2, 1% in 3, 14% off) the motor is not audible. at the highest setting going slowly up a steep hill with no wind, a faint whine might be audible. a welcome change!

View attachment 167078

View attachment 167079
Nice review, and nice looking bike - would never know it’s an ebike from your photos. So sorry to hear about your recent health challenges. I hope you have them sorted out and are able to adjust your exertion level to a safe one that’s still enjoyable. It sounds like you’re doing that.
Did you try the Scott with the TQ motor too? If so, I’d like to hear what you like better about the hub motor version. And what do the motor setting abbreviations stand for in the app photo?
 
Nice review, and nice looking bike - would never know it’s an ebike from your photos. So sorry to hear about your recent health challenges. I hope you have them sorted out and are able to adjust your exertion level to a safe one that’s still enjoyable. It sounds like you’re doing that.
Did you try the Scott with the TQ motor too? If so, I’d like to hear what you like better about the hub motor version. And what do the motor setting abbreviations stand for in the app photo?

the solace (the one with the tq motor) is much more like a creo - gravel geometry, and although you can get one with a 2x road group, i preferred the geometry, weight, and looks of the addict. both very nice bikes.

the app settings are a little oddly named -

the first one (power) is the max power and percentage of the 250w. it seems to display 200w at max, so it may be actual power after efficiency losses or i just may not have maxed it out yet.

the second one is acceleration, or how fast it ramps from no power to whatever the max is

the third one is responsiveness, which is actually like specializeds assist ratio or factor, in other words how hard do you have to pedal to generate power.
 
a little more experimenting with the settings and another hundred miles of mellow rides and i still like the bike.

the power/torque/cadence meter integrated into the bottom bracket is interesting. not particularly accurate. it is heavily biased towards the left side - pedaling with the left leg only (clipped in with the right foot completely unclipped - no input at all) gives a very high power reading, and pedaling with the right leg only gives a very low reading.

mahleLeg.jpg


one other minor downside (not really a big deal for me) is that the motor is not particularly capable at very low speeds, which makes sense for a hub drive that doesn't have the benefit of the bike drivetrain's gearing to keep the RPM range down. below 8mph (somewhere around 90rpm at the rear wheel) the effective power drops from around 200w at 8pm to 150w or so at 6mph. i think for most riders this will limit the maximum practical grade to around 15%. beyond that, you'll be supplying most of the power.

the mahle website to review ride data is fantastic ! lots of great info, clear charts and maps, and it can export the ride data in quite a few different formats. i don't use strava anymore but the app also directly uploads to strava, of course.

i switched to a new hollow pin waxed chain, adjusted the RD a little bit, made a custom 3d printed mount for my sp-connect phone case, and replaced the ridiculous lever arm through axle ( 😄 ) with a nice robert axle project version.

finally, i think i commented that the mahle smartbike app wasn't working with my heart rate strap. it turns out the sensor connects to the BIKE, not the phone, and once you know that (which means you can't connect it to the phone until the bike is on!) it works perfectly. duh. instructions leave much to be desired!

clean!:
0817-mount.jpg



i may print another version of this mount that has a goPro mount at the bottom, for a light. the bars make it awkward mount most headlights and i've been using the bike as a commuter too.
0816-mount.jpg


despite the ugly UI the app is growing on me.

0815-app.jpg



my other road bike has 12 speed dura ace, this one is a mix - dura ace crank and chainrings, dura ace/xtr chain, dura ace cassette, but ultegra calipers, derailleurs, and shifters. i do not see any difference in the shift quality or braking quality, although i will definitely nix the finned pads when they wear out!

the robert axle replacement through axle fits absolutely perfectly. too bad the graphics are white!
0818-axle.jpg
 
i don't use strava anymore
I have to wonder how long before Strava figures out a tiered subscription model that makes some sense. They have be hemorrhaging subscribers they way they locked formerly free features behind a paywall and then raised that wall significantly.


pedaling with the left leg only (clipped in with the right foot completely unclipped - no input at all) gives a very high power reading, and pedaling with the right leg only gives a very low reading
Have you compared to your power pedals (not sure what you use on your Aethos) ? Curious if it is reasonably accurate when pedaling with both sides.

replaced the ridiculous lever arm through axle ( 😄 ) with a nice robert axle project version
I take this to mean the choice of a lever arm through axle on this particular bike is ridiculous - not the through axle itself?

Thanks for sharing your impressions, I'd like to move towards a lighter drop bar bike though the Solace or Creo2 are probably more my speed. Wavering between that class of SL ebikes and a decent acoustic all road setup.
 
I have to wonder how long before Strava figures out a tiered subscription model that makes some sense. They have be hemorrhaging subscribers they way they locked formerly free features behind a paywall and then raised that wall significantly.



Have you compared to your power pedals (not sure what you use on your Aethos) ? Curious if it is reasonably accurate when pedaling with both sides.


I take this to mean the choice of a lever arm through axle on this particular bike is ridiculous - not the through axle itself?

Thanks for sharing your impressions, I'd like to move towards a lighter drop bar bike though the Solace or Creo2 are probably more my speed. Wavering between that class of SL ebikes and a decent acoustic all road setup.

the power meter on my aethos is in the crank arms, and although it’s literally the exact same crank set and chainrings i haven’t felt too confident taking them both apart. i’m still waiting on the power crank for this bike, 4iiii is super slow!

it is definitely not accurate - one of the places i ride is a local cycle track - dead flat and a perfect oval so what the wind takes away it generally gives back. the long sides are aligned with the prevailing winds, so not much crosswind. this bike and my aethos have very similar geometry and the same tires. i watch my heart rate pretty religiously and for the same HR, the scott is maybe 5 seconds slower around the track, but the power meter shows at least 20% lower than the 4iiii (or specialized SL, for that matter!)

i actually think strava is great, but for the same reasons i got this bike i really need to stop trying to go faster, feel compelled to ride further, compare segments etc etc. it makes it a lot harder to take it easy when you keep getting reminded of being slower, faster, not having gone as far, etc!

i strongly dislike lever arms on through axles. through axles themselves are great! they should always be torqued to the exact same value with a torque wrench, guaranteeing perfect disc brake alignment. the big lever arm, sometime even without a hex socket, is ugly, not very aero, and imprecise!

the solace seems like a nice bike too, but for some reason i found the bottom bracket / motor are really ugly looking. take a look at one in person and see if it’s just me! 😂
 
@mschwett yours is the 1st time I ever heard someone wants to rid themselves of the finned brake pads. May I ask why? (Genuine question, I don't understand their positives or negatives on a bike)
unnecessary for a fairly lightweight bike that never sees >20% grades. i’ve done 3,000 foot descents at 25+mph with zero problems on the brakes pictured below. the finned pads are ugly, collect dirt and dust, etc.

this is what road bike brakes should look like :)

IMG_7217.jpeg
 
unnecessary for a fairly lightweight bike that never sees >20% grades. i’ve done 3,000 foot descents at 25+mph with zero problems on the brakes pictured below. the finned pads are ugly, collect dirt and dust, etc.

this is what road bike brakes should look like :)
Got it - for cooling. And understood on collecting crap, not exactly what a bike needs.
 
it's been a rough few months for me with major health challenges that have led me to mothball my acoustic road bike - an s-works aethos which is by far the best cycling experience i've ever had, by a longshot. but riding such a bike at a reasonable speed on the steep hills of san francisco and the long hills of the rest of the bay area is no longer a good idea. i was on the fence between riding not at all, or resuming some road rides with enough assist to reduce my input to ±150w average over a long ride, at a heart rate of 80-90bpm.

i decided to see if there was a road bike experience close enough to what i'm now dearly missing, so i picked up a scott addict rc eride. this is a mahle x20 based bike, so of course i am a bit leery of the stability of the software and electronics. i currently still have a specialized turbo creo, heavily upgraded with carbon wheels, one piece cockpit, drivetrain changes, etc etc. it's a nice bike, but exemplifies the "jack of all trades master of none" problem with gravel bikes. the 1x drivetrain is not well suited to road riding, for one. although mine is down to 28lb or so, it still feels like a tank compared to the aethos.

i didn't like the color of the addict that came with the build i wanted, so i got the next tier down and changed out the cockpit, cranks, cassette, and am in the process of changing the saddle and seatpost. here's the bike :

View attachment 166803

it weight a bit under 24lb - so while it's lighter than the creo, 15% isn't so much different that you don't know it's an ebike. it has almost the same di2 drivetrain (a mix of dura ace and ultegra in this case) as my aethos with a 52-36 up front and 11-34 in the back. i was in between this size and the largest size, so i went smaller and put a 130mm one piece cockpit on it, which i like a lot. haven't fully set up my phone mount and a couple other details.

first impression was that the saddle SUCKS. i wasn't able to put my preferred s-works power romin saddle because of the carbon rails, so i'm waiting for a different post and clamp. second impression was that it feels just like a road bike, albeit without the magical flying carpet ride feeling of the aethos. the geometry (with the adjustments i made) is very similar, to within 15mm at all the touch points. the bottom bracket is about 10mm higher, which is the bigger difference, and the reach was shorter by default but with the 130mm cockpit it's basically the same. it's set up tubeless, 28mm, gp5000 s tr, running 60psi now (shop had it at 90 LOL) and i'm using the same speedplay titanium pedals as before.

some comparisons to the creo experience and general observations :

1) the "bike" drivetrain is way better for a road bike, period. nearly instant and smooth shifting even under load, and no motor effects on the drivetrain.
2) the extender battery is very similar. the internal battery is smaller - not an issue for me, but certainly part of the 4lb difference.
3) the mahle x20 rear hub motor is much, much quieter than the mahle mid-drive motor in the creo. not even a comparison there, for those who care. i haven't ridden the creo 2 with the new 1.2 motor which is supposed to be quieter.
4) the mahle app has a lot of features and conceptually is similar to the specialized app, but has that "written by people who are no good at software" feeling. i won't actually use it, but it refused to connect to my HRM, so i gave up after several tries, and then it just spontaneously detected it during a ride and asked me if i'd like to connect it lol. over the air firmware update worked well.
5) fully internal cable routing for everything is clean but will definitely make working on the bike much harder.
6) the fit and finish of some of the trim bits (like the magnetic headset cover on the one piece carbon cockpit) is maybe not quite as good as specialized.
7) the overall "integration" and experience is also not quite as polished as specialized - the branding of the app, the quantity of manuals and packaging from several different vendors, the quality of the scott and mahle websites etc leave a lot to be desired compared to specialized, which has certainly had some qualities rubbed off on them from their proximity to silicon valley.
8) there's a fully removable magnetic cover on the charging port which the shop told me will not possibly come off, they use it on eMTB and have never heard of it coming off, but i bet it'll come off or i'll lose it.
9) the default assist settings are way too high, with the lowest level resulting in a consistent 70-80 watts of power even when i'm not pedaling hard. this is surprising given the low output of the motor and the odd fact that the built in "power meter" seems to be way, way off, like not even close. i know what my power levels are at a certain heart rate and a certain riding situation to within maybe 10%, and the info mahle is using to calculate the assist is at least 25% low. it doesn't really matter - since the bike has a real road bike drivetrain i'll use a crank arm mounted power meter, but it's curious. the customization of the three built in assist levels is similar to specialized but with one additional variable for the rate of change of assist. i turned down the support factor and peaks and will continue tweaking.
10) had no problem at the higher support levels riding comfortably up 15-20% grades. will be interesting to see how the motor fares with long sustained climbs, but i'm not expecting it to be a problem given that i'm only looking for it to put out 75-100w for an hour in a situation like that.
11) like the creo, the bike transmits cadence and power data over the ANT protocol, but when using bluetooth uses proprietary protocols that only the mahle app can use. unsurprising but lame. the electronics seem virtually identical to the way a specialized SL bike works other than different labels for everything and an uglier UI.

finally - and this may be an important factor - i don't think the scott LBS network is very good in comparison to specialized. i have several very capable specialized dealers/shops within a short ride of home, and know them well enough to know what they know and what they don't. the shop i ordered this bike from is really great, nice, good selection of many types of bikes, but they do not see many of these, don't specialize in road bikes or e-bikes, and there were a couple mistakes that not even i would have made... like not adjusting the front derailleur's vertical position when changing to a crank with larger chainring! quick fixes, of course, but not confidence inspiring!

no exposed cables or hoses anywhere :D it's a nice greyish color with some irridescence. i do not like all the scott logos, but it is what it is.
View attachment 166805

a familiar and well loved drivetrain :)
View attachment 166806

with the range extender battery, which i intend to use infrequently, and find the cage so ugly that i removed it and will put it back on when i need it.
View attachment 166801

my conclusion so far is that this is a very niche bike, for people who want something as familiar to a super modern carbon road bike as possible but with a motor. it fills that bill. will it be reliable and versatile.... we'll see !
Sweet ride, and glad you are working through your medical issues, and hopefully can work this all out for the long-term. Riding is such a mental benefit along with the physical benefits. Good for you in trying to stay within your heart rate and limitations needed. Another huge benefit of e-bikes.
Makes me want to N+1 my number of bikes :)
 
so, just how inaccurate is the mahle x20 bottom bracket power meter? very!

the blue line is the power data from a 10 minute casual test (not riding hard) using a new, factory calibrated and tested 4iiii crank based power meter. for about half the ride the motor is off, and in the remainder i varied it in 2 minute intervals between 35%, 55%, and 100% power settings. the filled purple is the rider power level recorded by the bike. it's clearly way, way low. i see no obvious relationship between the motor settings and the accuracy of the meter, which makes sense since (unlike on the specialized bikes) they're totally separate systems, not even connected mechanically other than by the chain. interestingly the average isn't as far off as individual values appear to be, which may be the result of the much more aggressive smoothing mahle is doing with their data. smoothing the 4iiii data doesn't change much (cyan line) - individual values are still close over 30% low. the average is only 18% low, which makes me wonder if mahle's average is actually a weighted average.

in any case, it doesn't really matter, you can just turn up the "responsiveness" so that the bike's assist is scaled up a little, but the calorie estimates from the mahle app are of course wrong, and the ride data really can't be compared to ride data from any other cycling device. other data - cadence, heart rate, speed, time - match well.

mahle4iiiiSm.jpg
 
i resolved my major complaint about this bike, which was a very annoying rattle coming from somewhere around the headset / stem / top tube on any sharp bumps.

removed the HMI controller (the little button and light on the top tube) and it has three surplus connectors coming from it and from the battery- fairly hard plastic wires, fairly long, with little hard plastic black connectors. nothing to keep them from bouncing around in the top tube. wrapped them with foam, stuck them back in, and the bike is now completely silent. poor work by scott to leave them loose like that, but a very easily fixed issue.

it's kind of irritating how very far off the built in power meter is - about 20% on average and quite a bit more on peaks (maybe it averages more), but it doesn't really matter since the assist ratios can be set high enough to deliver full power with very little rider input. this is definitely not a bike for everyone but for the intended purpose, it's a better fit than just about anything else out there.
 
Great info! I have the Addict 10 E ride and had the same noise in the top tube from the cables. Used some felt packing material to quiet the rattle. What battery extender cable did you use? The 90 degree or the 30 degree and what tube did you untimely mount the battery on? Enjoying the bike in the Adirondack mountains and on the BRP, although that will now have to be deferred until repairs are completed.
 
Back