[#7] X52: at day 365 and mileage 7,657..
This is my 1-year review of the 2021 X52 mighty mite beastie. Though it now has 7,657 miles, I could have easily exceeded 15,000 miles. Its just that I have two other ebike beasts (M2S brand) which need to share the fun.
My X52 arrived on Aug 5, 2021. Before it ever left my condo living room, I had swapped out, among many other components, the OEM(original) CST(brand)tires 4.0(style) 20”x4” (size) puncture resistant tires and replaced them with the following monsters: the awesome SHINKO(brand) 244(model) 16x3(size) motorcycle tires: https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/shinko-244-dual-sport-tires?sku_id=270604
I had viewed numerous YouTube videos featuring these 244's on X52 (and other) ebikes. I must admit that these tires were 50% of the reason I even purchased this (or any) fat tire ebike using 20” (bicycle sizing) fat tires (4”, or otherwise). Why motorcycles and bicycles need to have totally different sizing formats is beyond me, but, such is life.
Also, let me tell you that, for the past 3+ years on my daily 50+ mile ebike escapades, I have NOT carried any sort of “flat tire” apparatus. I expect the installed tire formula's on any of my 6 ebikes to do their job in avoiding situations that are common when using regular bicycle tires-- but, not when using heavy duty motorcycle tires – or the equivalent thereof. See this EBR thread of mine https://electricbikereview.com/foru...20-my-2018-kush-fat-tire-combo-recipes.26756/ . It has 5,000+ views so far. It has great info for you KEPLER owners. My two M2S(brand) beasts have a total of 30,000+ mileage without getting a flat by using this technique.
However, the X52 is another matter.. I have had a flat tire on two separate occasions in the 7,600+ miles of usage of these magnificent SHINKO 244 motorcycle tires. I will elaborate more on those 2 flats later on.
I look forward to the day when these X52's, and all ebikes, for that matter,are treated/looked at as, the specialized machines that they actually are. No more “bicycle” references. These beasts are no more bicycles than snowmobiles are toboggans (know what I mean, Vern?).. Get over it, get on with it.
Anyway, I installed the Shinko 244's with only a minimum of screaming/whining/crying/swearing. But, eventually, I won the battle. And I have to admit that I absolutely love the looks of these monsters when installed on the rims. They have a rugged “squared off” profile, like the tires you see on bad ass Jeeps/4x4's, etc.
I never got tired of looking down at the front tire profile, with its squared silhouette and the distinctive center section of tread. When you were going straight ahead, that center section, about 1” wide and raised higher than the rest of the tread, was the only thing in contact with the pavement. It probably extended the overall tread life by 3 or 4 thousand miles. And yes, this tire lets people know that you are approaching. I won't classify it as overbearing, or annoying, just “there”. I really enjoyed the overall interaction with Mr. SHINKO 244 (times 2). I could have easily attained 10,000 total miles on this set of tires. However, fate was about to intervene.
In one of my earlier X52 write-ups, I made mention of the flat tire I incurred while out playing in 5” of der yellow snow. I had wanted to experiment with using lower tire pressure, say 6 or 8 psi, instead of the normal (and logical) 25+ psi. And, in so doing, the awesome power/torque of the 1,000 watt rear hub motor had decided to just rip the valve stem right off of the inner tube. So be it. At least I was only 200 yards from my condo.
After replacing the 20”x4” bicycle inner tube with another of the exact same size, AND using 26+psi, I continued onward and upward on my daily 50+ mile X52 ebike adventures. Until my 1-year anniversary: Aug 5, 2022.. At mile # 7,657.. Fate was in the air.. I happened upon a minor automobile accident that had just occurred within the prior 10 minutes. I was diligent in maneuvering around/through possible FOD from the crash scene. Or so I thought.
I got about 200 yards past the incident and became aware of the dreaded “riding thru mud” feeling: a flat tire-- on the rear wheel. ShitFire. I had managed to pick up a hitchhiker after all. I grabbed the inner tube valve stem and the rascal just came right off. Severed from the inner tube courtesy of the rim hole. Once again, I was reminded of the awesome torque/power contained in those rear hub motors. By the time you realize that “something is up”, you have also pushed the throttle to compensate. That is when the decapitation of the valve stem enters the picture.
So, anyway, I make a phone call and am soon back at the condo with my injured steed, thinking about the error of my ways (and there are MANY). What to do, what to do?
After some quick internet searching, I came upon the following (remember that those two SHINKO 244 beasts already had 7,657 miles on them). : Two SHINKO(brand) 241(model) 16”x3”(motorcycle size) tires
https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/shinko-sr-241-series-tires?sku_id=594590
And also, two DoubleTough(brand) motorcycle inner tubes (hell yes) in 2.75-3.00x16(size) with valve stem type TR-6 : https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/double-tough-inner-tubes?rrec=true&sku_id=1132896
If you go to the Revzilla website for these inner tubes and scan “tire size”, you will find 5 different options for 16” tires. Don't be tempted to use any size larger than 2.75-3.00.. The guy at the motorcycle shop told me that, for a motorcycle tire size of 16”x3”, the aforementioned size is the safest bet. A larger size might have a tendency a fold/pinch during installation.. NOT a good thing at all.
I was also intrigued/impressed by the fact that motorcycle inner tube VALVE STEMS are 100% metal (and threaded) and use the following:
a). the valve cap..
b). a thin metal nut..
c). ANOTHER thin metal nut..
d) a thin metal washer..
After saturating the new inner tube with talc/baby powder, you can go about installing the inner tube onto the rim Remove the valve cap and the first metal nut. Take the second metal nut and screw it down onto the thin metal washer. The reason for that 2nd nut is to ensure that the metal washer does NOT fall off the valve stem during installation (doing so within the bowels of the tire/rim/tube would lead to a surefire cut tube/tire in short order on your first ride).
Also, when finally successfully installing the valve stem into/through the rim hole, just screw on the valve cap for the time being. Believe me when I tell you that option is much easier than trying to screw the pesky 1st thin metal nut onto the stem. After all is said and done, you can then go back and install/tighten (but not too tight) the 1st metal nut. Game over. By the way, the type TR-6 valve stem (aka The Short One) is the perfect length for use in those ebikes using 20” size wheels. You might have the option of 5 or 6 different types of valve stem, so be cautious in your selection.
So, how do I like/compare/feel about the Shinko 241's in comparison to the Shinko 244's?? As I mentioned earlier about the 244's: they generate a respectable volume of road noise. You will never be able to sneak up on someone, fer sure.
I have now put 200 miles on the 241's and my verdict is that the 241's absolutely RULE!! These damn tire are dead-on quiet-- as quiet as a slick tread tire. I was amazed. Remember that I had the 244's installed on the X52 ever since mile 0(zero) back on Aug 5, 2021. Now, with the 241's, I was hearing all kinds of new and different and wonderful sounds. My mighty X52 beast was a vicious, yet purring, amigo. I will never tell anyone to not buy/install the bad azz looking 244's (because they definitely are that), but, for me, it will be 241's from here on out. I'm totally smitten, and I ain't shittin'.. I know that I could have gotten to mile #10,000 with that 244 rear tire. Now I'm interested to see how 241 compares. I can't wait to see how they perform in snow.
By the way, for some reason, the front tire wears out much faster than the rear tire (see photo's below)- despite the rear wheels overwhelming weight factor disadvantage. And that is not necessarily a bad thing. Why? Well, because the front wheel/tire removal/swap/installation is a heck of a lot easier to deal with than the 25+ pound rear hub motor setup for the rear tire/wheel.
Additionally, you have multiple options:
Only install the 244/241/motorcycle inner tube combo on the REAR wheel. Continue to use the original tires/inner tubes on the very easy to deal with FRONT wheel. If/when those original tires finally do wear out (probably by mile #3,000), then go to the 244/241 setup all around.
I ALWAYS use green SLIME in all of my inner tubes. That stuff is very inexpensive and serves its intended purpose very well. https://www.amazon.com/Slime-10004-...1_5?keywords=slime+tire&qid=1662475375&sr=8-5. If you buy this 16 oz bottle, just use ½ a bottle in each inner tube. Easy Breezy..
Tire pressure: For gosh sakes, always keep tire psi at 25, or higher. I use 27psi on my 3 fat tire ebikes.
Now, a word about mileage-per-full battery charge. For the first 200 miles of use, I was attaining a distance of 35 miles per battery “fill-up”. Then, on a ride, I was treated to a loud metallic thud/bang. It freaked the crap out of me. However, after stopping to check things out, all seemed to be OK with the exception of one item: the “PAS assist” would no longer “assist”.. Only by using the thumb throttle would I be able to ascend any type of incline, no matter how shallow the gradient. Bummer deal, fer sure. From that time onward(even until this very day), I have had to settle for 26 miles maximum distance per full battery charge. Plus the fact that I am currently using my 3rd thumb throttle unit, due to the excess need for assistance.
So, after much back and forth with the ArielRider home office rocket scientists about the matter, their opinion on the matter was that, by using the SHINKO 244 tire set-up, the extra 4 pounds of tire weight was just TOO MUCH for the mighty, and much acclaimed, 1,000 watt/2,000 watt maximum beast of a rear-hub motor to handle-- thus, no “assist”. Total BullSheet. But, what to do? AR was not about to budge on their “take”. So, I just went ahead and placed an order for a complete blue rim rear hub/wheel setup. $350.00 plus shipping. The order was placed at Thanksgiving 2021 holiday time-frame. At Christmas, I contacted AR for an update: nothing to report as of yet. On January 20, 2022, I once again contacted AR. As expected, still nothing to report. It doesn't take a NASA rocket scientist to realize that AR had ZERO intention of ever fulfilling my order. Why not? Because, by having the additional wheel unit, I would be able to verify that the original rear hub was indeed defective. So, instead of pitching a beach, I just went ahead and canceled the order. I own multiple 48v/52v ebike batteries, so I just carry extra units (inside my mailbox seat) to attain my daily 50 mile rides.
As a result of the aforementioned incident, and also a few other incidents while dealing with the AR “professionals”, I really have nothing/naa-daa/zip positive to say about ArielRider, the company. When interacting with people while out-and-about on my wonderful ebike toyz, the very first thing I inject into the conversation is my extremely NEGATIVE viewpoint of ArielRider, the company.
These moped/scooter-type of ebikes are a dime a dozen. There are many other companies to send your hardly earned $$$ to. Just be sure to shop around. Try not to fall for the Smoke&Mirrors bullsheet advertising of some companies.
Original X52 components: The only item I have had to replace is the thumb throttle-- I am currently using the 3rd one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CKBV1M3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Just be sure to check your ebikes connections prior to ordering to be sure that the items are compatible.
The following component items are original: chain, Shimano ACERA rear derailleur, rear thumb shifter, rear 7speed cassette, front shock, rear coil-over shock.
I have replaced the disc brake pads 2 times (the most recent was at mile 7,500). Easy enough to deal with. I use these pads on all of my disc brake-equipped ebikes https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AHP55IY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The original front chain ring (48T) has been supplemented with a larger (58t) extra chain ring setup.. I actually have a 48t/58t combo installed. To change between them, I just grab the chain (its oily, so use a rag) and MANUALLY place the chain onto the desired ring. The chain itself is the correct length to safely handle both sizes of ring. I seldom use the 48t unit, but it is always handy to have for just in case (hilly area's, etc.).
So, with all the information that I have just spewed, you might have noticed that I have yet to say anything POSITIVE about the 2021 ArielRider X52 beast. Nor will I.
I am now a 100% fan of the 750+watt ebikes using 20” fat tires, because of the aforementioned motorcycle tires/tubes ease of use. However, I consider there to be too many NEGATIVES-- at least in my case (as a 71 year old fart). For you youngsters (age 30, or younger): knock your socks off. You will find this ebike beast to be a super duper FUN toy. Plus, within 3 or 4 years, you will transition to a more logical style of ebike. As of right now, if I were to buy yet another ebike, it would be required to check off the following boxes:
a). 20” fat tires
b). BaFang 750watt (or the BaFang 1,000 watt BLADE)rear hub motor unit.
c). height adjustable seatpost AND step-thru frame. My inseam is 30”. For me to have the correct leg extension when actually pedaling, I require a seat top-height of 39”. At age 71, I am asking a lot of my leg muscles to get up and over the mailbox seat setup that I use. So, a tough lesson was learned on my part. Learn from my mistakes.
A thumb throttle is preferable but, at less than $20, it is an easy enough swap-out from the wrist twist-throttle item.
As the owner of 2 ebikes which are equipped with 26”x4” fat tires, as well as the AR and its 20”x4/16”x3” fat tires, I much prefer the smaller 20” tire setup. The smaller ebike is just a lot more agile/maneuverable/FUN.
I am awaiting an interesting ebike item to be delivered via AliXpress. When it does arrive, and is installed, I will make another thread posting. I think any/all ebike owners whose toy uses the rear hub motor setup, will find the info to be of value. Or not.
In finishing this thread posting, I want to include the following information as a courtesy to Solarcabin and his EBR thread Increasing pedal resistance on the Ariel X : I am attaching the following link to/of my own posting(s) located over at the BikTrix ebike companys' EBReview forum site (I "fixed" this link on Sept 9th, so it should display correctly now.): https://electricbikereview.com/foru...-sensor-bottom-bracket-price-is-200-00.40097/
By the way, the last time I checked it, that thread had “4K views”, which means that it has had between 4,000 and 4,999 “views” since its original posting. Be dang sure to read the ENTIRE thread. Its worth the effort-- have lots of brewski's on hand..]]
Sometimes, when it comes to those pesky internet forum rascals, ya just gotta do what ya gotta do-- even if it means potentially getting spanked by the PTB (PowersThatBe) .. kinda sorta (too much dang fun) :
It should make certain ebike owners (you good folks) really appreciate their own very correct ebike purchase. I also realize that many potential ebike buyers cruise these forums as an aid in their search for the ideal ebike at the most practical price. They also need to be made aware of “brand service after the sale”, or lack/deception thereof. After all, an ebike purchase of $1,500+ (or, in the case of the X52: $2,300) is no small investment. You be the judge.
Finally, the photo's (below) show the OEM, 244, and 241 tires mentioned in this thread posting.
And that is about it.
This is my 1-year review of the 2021 X52 mighty mite beastie. Though it now has 7,657 miles, I could have easily exceeded 15,000 miles. Its just that I have two other ebike beasts (M2S brand) which need to share the fun.
My X52 arrived on Aug 5, 2021. Before it ever left my condo living room, I had swapped out, among many other components, the OEM(original) CST(brand)tires 4.0(style) 20”x4” (size) puncture resistant tires and replaced them with the following monsters: the awesome SHINKO(brand) 244(model) 16x3(size) motorcycle tires: https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/shinko-244-dual-sport-tires?sku_id=270604
I had viewed numerous YouTube videos featuring these 244's on X52 (and other) ebikes. I must admit that these tires were 50% of the reason I even purchased this (or any) fat tire ebike using 20” (bicycle sizing) fat tires (4”, or otherwise). Why motorcycles and bicycles need to have totally different sizing formats is beyond me, but, such is life.
Also, let me tell you that, for the past 3+ years on my daily 50+ mile ebike escapades, I have NOT carried any sort of “flat tire” apparatus. I expect the installed tire formula's on any of my 6 ebikes to do their job in avoiding situations that are common when using regular bicycle tires-- but, not when using heavy duty motorcycle tires – or the equivalent thereof. See this EBR thread of mine https://electricbikereview.com/foru...20-my-2018-kush-fat-tire-combo-recipes.26756/ . It has 5,000+ views so far. It has great info for you KEPLER owners. My two M2S(brand) beasts have a total of 30,000+ mileage without getting a flat by using this technique.
However, the X52 is another matter.. I have had a flat tire on two separate occasions in the 7,600+ miles of usage of these magnificent SHINKO 244 motorcycle tires. I will elaborate more on those 2 flats later on.
I look forward to the day when these X52's, and all ebikes, for that matter,are treated/looked at as, the specialized machines that they actually are. No more “bicycle” references. These beasts are no more bicycles than snowmobiles are toboggans (know what I mean, Vern?).. Get over it, get on with it.
Anyway, I installed the Shinko 244's with only a minimum of screaming/whining/crying/swearing. But, eventually, I won the battle. And I have to admit that I absolutely love the looks of these monsters when installed on the rims. They have a rugged “squared off” profile, like the tires you see on bad ass Jeeps/4x4's, etc.
I never got tired of looking down at the front tire profile, with its squared silhouette and the distinctive center section of tread. When you were going straight ahead, that center section, about 1” wide and raised higher than the rest of the tread, was the only thing in contact with the pavement. It probably extended the overall tread life by 3 or 4 thousand miles. And yes, this tire lets people know that you are approaching. I won't classify it as overbearing, or annoying, just “there”. I really enjoyed the overall interaction with Mr. SHINKO 244 (times 2). I could have easily attained 10,000 total miles on this set of tires. However, fate was about to intervene.
In one of my earlier X52 write-ups, I made mention of the flat tire I incurred while out playing in 5” of der yellow snow. I had wanted to experiment with using lower tire pressure, say 6 or 8 psi, instead of the normal (and logical) 25+ psi. And, in so doing, the awesome power/torque of the 1,000 watt rear hub motor had decided to just rip the valve stem right off of the inner tube. So be it. At least I was only 200 yards from my condo.
After replacing the 20”x4” bicycle inner tube with another of the exact same size, AND using 26+psi, I continued onward and upward on my daily 50+ mile X52 ebike adventures. Until my 1-year anniversary: Aug 5, 2022.. At mile # 7,657.. Fate was in the air.. I happened upon a minor automobile accident that had just occurred within the prior 10 minutes. I was diligent in maneuvering around/through possible FOD from the crash scene. Or so I thought.
I got about 200 yards past the incident and became aware of the dreaded “riding thru mud” feeling: a flat tire-- on the rear wheel. ShitFire. I had managed to pick up a hitchhiker after all. I grabbed the inner tube valve stem and the rascal just came right off. Severed from the inner tube courtesy of the rim hole. Once again, I was reminded of the awesome torque/power contained in those rear hub motors. By the time you realize that “something is up”, you have also pushed the throttle to compensate. That is when the decapitation of the valve stem enters the picture.
So, anyway, I make a phone call and am soon back at the condo with my injured steed, thinking about the error of my ways (and there are MANY). What to do, what to do?
After some quick internet searching, I came upon the following (remember that those two SHINKO 244 beasts already had 7,657 miles on them). : Two SHINKO(brand) 241(model) 16”x3”(motorcycle size) tires
https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/shinko-sr-241-series-tires?sku_id=594590
And also, two DoubleTough(brand) motorcycle inner tubes (hell yes) in 2.75-3.00x16(size) with valve stem type TR-6 : https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/double-tough-inner-tubes?rrec=true&sku_id=1132896
If you go to the Revzilla website for these inner tubes and scan “tire size”, you will find 5 different options for 16” tires. Don't be tempted to use any size larger than 2.75-3.00.. The guy at the motorcycle shop told me that, for a motorcycle tire size of 16”x3”, the aforementioned size is the safest bet. A larger size might have a tendency a fold/pinch during installation.. NOT a good thing at all.
I was also intrigued/impressed by the fact that motorcycle inner tube VALVE STEMS are 100% metal (and threaded) and use the following:
a). the valve cap..
b). a thin metal nut..
c). ANOTHER thin metal nut..
d) a thin metal washer..
After saturating the new inner tube with talc/baby powder, you can go about installing the inner tube onto the rim Remove the valve cap and the first metal nut. Take the second metal nut and screw it down onto the thin metal washer. The reason for that 2nd nut is to ensure that the metal washer does NOT fall off the valve stem during installation (doing so within the bowels of the tire/rim/tube would lead to a surefire cut tube/tire in short order on your first ride).
Also, when finally successfully installing the valve stem into/through the rim hole, just screw on the valve cap for the time being. Believe me when I tell you that option is much easier than trying to screw the pesky 1st thin metal nut onto the stem. After all is said and done, you can then go back and install/tighten (but not too tight) the 1st metal nut. Game over. By the way, the type TR-6 valve stem (aka The Short One) is the perfect length for use in those ebikes using 20” size wheels. You might have the option of 5 or 6 different types of valve stem, so be cautious in your selection.
So, how do I like/compare/feel about the Shinko 241's in comparison to the Shinko 244's?? As I mentioned earlier about the 244's: they generate a respectable volume of road noise. You will never be able to sneak up on someone, fer sure.
I have now put 200 miles on the 241's and my verdict is that the 241's absolutely RULE!! These damn tire are dead-on quiet-- as quiet as a slick tread tire. I was amazed. Remember that I had the 244's installed on the X52 ever since mile 0(zero) back on Aug 5, 2021. Now, with the 241's, I was hearing all kinds of new and different and wonderful sounds. My mighty X52 beast was a vicious, yet purring, amigo. I will never tell anyone to not buy/install the bad azz looking 244's (because they definitely are that), but, for me, it will be 241's from here on out. I'm totally smitten, and I ain't shittin'.. I know that I could have gotten to mile #10,000 with that 244 rear tire. Now I'm interested to see how 241 compares. I can't wait to see how they perform in snow.
By the way, for some reason, the front tire wears out much faster than the rear tire (see photo's below)- despite the rear wheels overwhelming weight factor disadvantage. And that is not necessarily a bad thing. Why? Well, because the front wheel/tire removal/swap/installation is a heck of a lot easier to deal with than the 25+ pound rear hub motor setup for the rear tire/wheel.
Additionally, you have multiple options:
Only install the 244/241/motorcycle inner tube combo on the REAR wheel. Continue to use the original tires/inner tubes on the very easy to deal with FRONT wheel. If/when those original tires finally do wear out (probably by mile #3,000), then go to the 244/241 setup all around.
I ALWAYS use green SLIME in all of my inner tubes. That stuff is very inexpensive and serves its intended purpose very well. https://www.amazon.com/Slime-10004-...1_5?keywords=slime+tire&qid=1662475375&sr=8-5. If you buy this 16 oz bottle, just use ½ a bottle in each inner tube. Easy Breezy..
Tire pressure: For gosh sakes, always keep tire psi at 25, or higher. I use 27psi on my 3 fat tire ebikes.
Now, a word about mileage-per-full battery charge. For the first 200 miles of use, I was attaining a distance of 35 miles per battery “fill-up”. Then, on a ride, I was treated to a loud metallic thud/bang. It freaked the crap out of me. However, after stopping to check things out, all seemed to be OK with the exception of one item: the “PAS assist” would no longer “assist”.. Only by using the thumb throttle would I be able to ascend any type of incline, no matter how shallow the gradient. Bummer deal, fer sure. From that time onward(even until this very day), I have had to settle for 26 miles maximum distance per full battery charge. Plus the fact that I am currently using my 3rd thumb throttle unit, due to the excess need for assistance.
So, after much back and forth with the ArielRider home office rocket scientists about the matter, their opinion on the matter was that, by using the SHINKO 244 tire set-up, the extra 4 pounds of tire weight was just TOO MUCH for the mighty, and much acclaimed, 1,000 watt/2,000 watt maximum beast of a rear-hub motor to handle-- thus, no “assist”. Total BullSheet. But, what to do? AR was not about to budge on their “take”. So, I just went ahead and placed an order for a complete blue rim rear hub/wheel setup. $350.00 plus shipping. The order was placed at Thanksgiving 2021 holiday time-frame. At Christmas, I contacted AR for an update: nothing to report as of yet. On January 20, 2022, I once again contacted AR. As expected, still nothing to report. It doesn't take a NASA rocket scientist to realize that AR had ZERO intention of ever fulfilling my order. Why not? Because, by having the additional wheel unit, I would be able to verify that the original rear hub was indeed defective. So, instead of pitching a beach, I just went ahead and canceled the order. I own multiple 48v/52v ebike batteries, so I just carry extra units (inside my mailbox seat) to attain my daily 50 mile rides.
As a result of the aforementioned incident, and also a few other incidents while dealing with the AR “professionals”, I really have nothing/naa-daa/zip positive to say about ArielRider, the company. When interacting with people while out-and-about on my wonderful ebike toyz, the very first thing I inject into the conversation is my extremely NEGATIVE viewpoint of ArielRider, the company.
These moped/scooter-type of ebikes are a dime a dozen. There are many other companies to send your hardly earned $$$ to. Just be sure to shop around. Try not to fall for the Smoke&Mirrors bullsheet advertising of some companies.
Original X52 components: The only item I have had to replace is the thumb throttle-- I am currently using the 3rd one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CKBV1M3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Just be sure to check your ebikes connections prior to ordering to be sure that the items are compatible.
The following component items are original: chain, Shimano ACERA rear derailleur, rear thumb shifter, rear 7speed cassette, front shock, rear coil-over shock.
I have replaced the disc brake pads 2 times (the most recent was at mile 7,500). Easy enough to deal with. I use these pads on all of my disc brake-equipped ebikes https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AHP55IY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The original front chain ring (48T) has been supplemented with a larger (58t) extra chain ring setup.. I actually have a 48t/58t combo installed. To change between them, I just grab the chain (its oily, so use a rag) and MANUALLY place the chain onto the desired ring. The chain itself is the correct length to safely handle both sizes of ring. I seldom use the 48t unit, but it is always handy to have for just in case (hilly area's, etc.).
So, with all the information that I have just spewed, you might have noticed that I have yet to say anything POSITIVE about the 2021 ArielRider X52 beast. Nor will I.
I am now a 100% fan of the 750+watt ebikes using 20” fat tires, because of the aforementioned motorcycle tires/tubes ease of use. However, I consider there to be too many NEGATIVES-- at least in my case (as a 71 year old fart). For you youngsters (age 30, or younger): knock your socks off. You will find this ebike beast to be a super duper FUN toy. Plus, within 3 or 4 years, you will transition to a more logical style of ebike. As of right now, if I were to buy yet another ebike, it would be required to check off the following boxes:
a). 20” fat tires
b). BaFang 750watt (or the BaFang 1,000 watt BLADE)rear hub motor unit.
c). height adjustable seatpost AND step-thru frame. My inseam is 30”. For me to have the correct leg extension when actually pedaling, I require a seat top-height of 39”. At age 71, I am asking a lot of my leg muscles to get up and over the mailbox seat setup that I use. So, a tough lesson was learned on my part. Learn from my mistakes.
A thumb throttle is preferable but, at less than $20, it is an easy enough swap-out from the wrist twist-throttle item.
As the owner of 2 ebikes which are equipped with 26”x4” fat tires, as well as the AR and its 20”x4/16”x3” fat tires, I much prefer the smaller 20” tire setup. The smaller ebike is just a lot more agile/maneuverable/FUN.
I am awaiting an interesting ebike item to be delivered via AliXpress. When it does arrive, and is installed, I will make another thread posting. I think any/all ebike owners whose toy uses the rear hub motor setup, will find the info to be of value. Or not.
In finishing this thread posting, I want to include the following information as a courtesy to Solarcabin and his EBR thread Increasing pedal resistance on the Ariel X : I am attaching the following link to/of my own posting(s) located over at the BikTrix ebike companys' EBReview forum site (I "fixed" this link on Sept 9th, so it should display correctly now.): https://electricbikereview.com/foru...-sensor-bottom-bracket-price-is-200-00.40097/
By the way, the last time I checked it, that thread had “4K views”, which means that it has had between 4,000 and 4,999 “views” since its original posting. Be dang sure to read the ENTIRE thread. Its worth the effort-- have lots of brewski's on hand..]]
Sometimes, when it comes to those pesky internet forum rascals, ya just gotta do what ya gotta do-- even if it means potentially getting spanked by the PTB (PowersThatBe) .. kinda sorta (too much dang fun) :
It should make certain ebike owners (you good folks) really appreciate their own very correct ebike purchase. I also realize that many potential ebike buyers cruise these forums as an aid in their search for the ideal ebike at the most practical price. They also need to be made aware of “brand service after the sale”, or lack/deception thereof. After all, an ebike purchase of $1,500+ (or, in the case of the X52: $2,300) is no small investment. You be the judge.
Finally, the photo's (below) show the OEM, 244, and 241 tires mentioned in this thread posting.
And that is about it.
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