25km/h? 32? 45? 60? What speed do you *actually* want on your e-bike?

Personally, I’d be a little concerned about approaching those kind of speeds w/o a full face style helmet. Facial reconstruction and dental implants are painful and expensive.
I’ve gradually upped my speed over the last year, but I draw the line at 30 mph, (downhill, no traffic) just because I’m older, my bones don’t heal as fast as they used to, and my bike handling skills aren’t that advanced.
It is a thrill flying downhill that quickly, though. I can see the attraction.
Hi Toomanycats, I’m old (56) but I get tired of riding at 25kph on the pedals when I can get from A to B in half the time with PAS or throttle. My solution is to ride with regard to traffic, weather conditions and maintain your vehicle. Yeah you’re right, as we get older we don’t heal as quickly.
 
I'm good with my Class 1 R&M Delight.Now with torque sensor in eco mode I easly ride a steady 15 mph.My other ebike I ride pass 1 at 11-13 mph.
 
I wear body armour as a base layer underneath my clothing on my e-bike (or, when it's really hot out, just the armour by itself). My armour might be lighter duty than you'd prefer, but I at least wear both upper body armour and lower body armour. They have body armour now that is so lightweight, so malleable, so breathable, and with hardpoints that harden on contact, that there's no good reason (aside from cost) to not wear it every single ride. When it comes to helmet, I'm a true believer. I don't wear a full-face helmet, but this discussion has me re-thinking that. Maybe I'll give the Bell Super Air a try.
In general I agree with you that if you're regularly riding a lot faster than 32 km/h that you should be armoured up.
I've hit the road at 40 kph on a pedal bike: with my chin, which broke. And the forearms, which were wearing long sleeved poly/cotton mechanic's tunic. Also cotton work gloves. My "road rash" was so minor, I wouldn't even call it that. A little redness, like a class 1 sunburn. Needed 7 stiches in my chin, then teeth were wired shut for Thanksgiving, Christmas, new years. I had tried to buy a helmet with chin guard the summer before that, no sale. Full closed visor no vents motorcycle helmets or skinny bicycle slivers was all anybody could find me. I'm riding a Fox rampage helmet now, nicely ventilated so the sweat doesn't drip in my eyes at 100 deg F. Competitivecyclist.com had them, but wouldn't show them to me, "javascript error" was all I got. Somebody on this website found it for me, the secret search term is "downhill mountain bike racing helmet". Bright yellow lettering too, which matches the yellow/green reflective stripe vest I wear. I'm still wearing dickies and red hat poly/cotton work clothing, seems entirely adequate if you don't hit a bridge abutment.
Not slowing down with electricity, hit 48 kph downhill pretty frequently out in the country.
 
Anyone with a 45 km/h bike that would be content with a little less? If you could set each mode of assist independently, would you and (if so) what would you set each mode to?

So my question is, if your e-bike was tuneable, what would you tune it to? Would you tune each mode of assist to the same top speed, or would you create a selection of top assisted speeds for different places you ride?

Rear hub, class III here with five levels of assist. In the first few months of riding, after 25 years off a bike, I generally rode around in level 3 a lot. As I built stamina and strength, I gradually lowered my use of assist, and now ride almost entirely in level 1 and sometimes level 0 (assist off). I basically never used level 5 except to experience it once or twice for fun... it would drain the battery too fast for my preferences today, where I like to get 80-100 miles between charge cycles.
The power output as a percentage of capacity, is technically adjustable on this bike. When a new controller had to be installed, I got the newer upgraded hardware that enabled configuring those five levels via Bluetooth; out of the box the new controller arrived with much higher assistance set at the lower levels than I was used to with the old controller. New level 1 now gave way too much assistance for my tastes, so the vendor helped guide me through changing the levels back to their former percentage values.
That means I could reprogram the upper levels to provide less assistance; level 5, which currently provides 100% capacity, could be set to a lower value never enabling me to use 100% of the capacity. This would let me select more assist levels during rides, while preventing me from burning through the charge too quickly… But I already manage that (ie extend range) by staying in level 1 predominately; so I’ve never tweaked “down” level 5 settings... because I never use 5 (nor 4 or 3, for that matter, these days!)
 
I'm currently riding a Felt Sport-E. I switched to it because it has a STePS E8000 motor. That motor, and that motor alone that I am aware of, allows tuning both the level of assist and the top speed individually for each level of assist.

Once I learned about that, I swapped to a bike that had that. The first thing I did was make low and medium assist more powerful, so that I wouldn't ride in high assist as often. Then I started tweaking the top speeds, some up, some down. It'll void your warranty, etc., etc., just as you'd expect. :)

Hello!

How the performance of the E8000 over 32km/h? Can you really sustain a 40-45km/h with this motor? just wondering because I haven't found a "class 3" bike with the E-8000 motor.
Thanks!
 
Hello!

How the performance of the E8000 over 32km/h? Can you really sustain a 40-45km/h with this motor? just wondering because I haven't found a "class 3" bike with the E-8000 motor.
Thanks!

Shimano only sells 25 and 32 km/h bikes, period. So you won't find a class 3 with a Shimano motor at this time, no.

It works great past 32 km/h. Yes, I can sustain 40-45 with this motor on flat ground, when I choose to create a mode that goes that high. I mostly ride with it set at 38 km/h, though.
 
Hi MD,
What Shimano display do you have to allow re programming. Do you know if you can reprogram using the the SC-E6010 display
No, the SC-E6010 does not have Bluetooth. You will need the SC-E6100 display and most likely the motor’s firmware updated, so it will recognize the SC-E6100 display. That’s what I did anyway.
Edit: Shimano‘s E-TUBE app doesn’t allow you to change top speed. I think there are other apps that allow it, but I personally haven’t tried. 20mph is good enough for me.
 
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No, the SC-E6010 does not have Bluetooth. You will need the SC-E6100 display and most likely the motor’s firmware updated, so it will recognize the SC-E6100 display. That’s what I did anyway.
Edit: Shimano‘s E-TUBE app doesn’t allow you to change top speed. I think there are other apps that allow it, but I personally haven’t tried. 20mph is good enough for me.

Yes, you need to use unofficial software and potentially void your warranty to speed tune an E8000 motor.

It's possible to speed tune an E8000 motor with an E6010 display by using a physical cable rather than using bluetooth. Shimano will sell the cable kit to consumers but it costs hundreds of dollars and it may cost as much or less to upgrade to an E8000 display which you can speed tune over bluetooth. To the best of my knowledge it's not possible to speed tune an E8000 motor using software-only with an E6100 display (or an E7000 screen), because to do so you need to use an old firmware that came out before the newer models. So you're limited to doing it with the E6010 display over a cable or the E8000 screen over bluetooth.

The first thing I did when speed tuning was drop the speed of one of the three modes to 25 km/h, so speed tuning isn't just about higher speeds! :) The fact that you can set every mode of assist separately is the killer app with the E8000 motor for me.
 
I am sticking with a simple speed tuning device that works with all motor, display and software versions.


Does that lets you set different top speeds for each mode of assist? Because I don't want the bike derestricted (I have no desire for the bike to assist me when I'm pedalling down hills, for example). I want it restricted to a larger range of speeds, and each PAS level set to a different top speed. If there's a device that lets me do that, and lets me do it on the latest firmware, then I'd potentially consider it. Though I am more software-handy than I am hardware-handy, so a software-only solution is good for me in that regard. :)
 
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I like that Nireeka 38 mph ebike. For 2-2.3k seems like a great deal.
Definitely has a better quality then a Juiced , Radpower, Aventom. Similar in performance with a Frey but no worries with shipping.
Maybe the tires are too wide but sometimes that is very safe to have.

35-38mph should be the limit for a real Class 3 ebike.

(Link Removed - No Longer Exists)
 
My ebike with the Shimano E8000 drive is now out of the warranty period and I want to try to derestrict it with a Badass box
Does any one know what firmware version is required to allow this to work
 
My ebike with the Shimano E8000 drive is now out of the warranty period and I want to try to derestrict it with a Badass box
Does any one know what firmware version is required to allow this to work

You can do it software-only on the E8000, no box required. STUnlocker (if you have an E8000 display) or eMax (if you have an E8000 or an E6010 display and the correct cable). This will let you set the top speed on a per-mode basis (different top speeds for Eco, Trail, and Boost) up to 60 km/h, while still putting the correct speed on the display. This is a better solution as you're working with the motor instead of against it. You're not fooling the motor, as it has settings for up to 60 km/h to set. They just closed access to those settings in newer firmwares.
 
Most of my e-bikes have been class-3 (45 km/h, 28 mph). But I've also ridden many class 1 e-bikes (32km/h, 20 mph), and bikes limited to 25 km/h.

I wasn't very satisfied with 25 km/h (15.5 mph) for commuting. I can usually ride as fast or faster than that on a muscle bike, so it didn't add a lot to the experience for me.

32 km/h was a lot better, but still less than I preferred for commuting, or for many recreational rides. That's close to my normal cruising speed on a muscle bike.

So I migrated to class 3 bikes, not necessarily because I wanted the full 45 km/h, but because I wanted something more than 32.

I finally got a bike where I'm able to manipulate the top assisted speed, anywhere from 25-60 km/h, and I can set each level of assist separately. That's allowed me to play with a bunch of different top speeds each ride, to get a sense of what I really want. Crazy fast can be fun, but it reduces range so I've been trying to find the sweet spot between adrenaline and energy efficiency.

I've found that for me, I quite like:

- a 32 km/h (20 mph) mode to be legal for use on local multi-use trails, or when nursing a low battery home

- a 38 km/h (23.6 mph) mode for riding on roads

- a 60 km/h mode (37.3 mph) mode for riding on highways and private property.

I should note that this particular bike starts cutting out at the speed you set it to, but gradually reduces assist for the next 2 km/h. So for a mode set to 38 kmh/, it starts cutting out at that and is fully cut out by the time you hit 40 km/h (24.9 mph).

I intend to explore doing long-distance touring this spring in a 25 km/h assisted mode, to get really long range on a charge.

So my question to all of you is, what top speed do you all really want? Any of you with 25 of 32 km/h bikes that long for a little more? Anyone with a 45 km/h bike that would be content with a little less? If you could set each mode of assist independently, would you and (if so) what would you set each mode to?

So my question is, if your e-bike was tuneable, what would you tune it to? Would you tune each mode of assist to the same top speed, or would you create a selection of top assisted speeds for different places you ride?
I have daymak em1, how can I get it to go faster than 32kph
 
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