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In the ZFC tests, which being real data isn't something you're probably interested in reading, T-9 came in 33rd at the end of the 1,000 km dry/clean run, 38th after the dry/dusty run, 36th after the 3rd clean run, etc. Pretty middle of the road. There are worse, sure, but there are also better...

The Excel test data file has this note: That said, Squirt does fairly well in the ZFC tests. In the video, BikeRumor gave it a "great value" rating, and the ZFC guy says (about 24 minutes in) that it's a "solid choice," but that it has "initial penetration issues" in that it doesn't readily...

The ZeroFrictionCycling testing guy says otherwise - that the worst brands, even popular ones, only last 1/10 the distance of the best chain lubes. Quote here (timed to start):

Chain lubes are among the contentious discussions in the biking world, and EBR is no exception. Some here may know of the Australian company ZeroFrictionCycling and its extensive testing efforts over the years. Their testing protocol is well-documented, uses a motor-driven actual bicycle...

There is no evidence that this claimed mechanism is true, no chemical/physical theory behind it, and even the company making those particular products does not recommend that procedure.

And now you're editing your posts to remove what you said - even after I quoted and responded with a quote from the company itself. Sad.

LOL, just read the reply from Maxima themselves to the sole comment: Seems like you've switched your insults to be sarcastic now. Go do some research and I'm sure you'll find the answer.

The actually funny part is that Maxima themselves recommends against your procedure. Their wax "needs to be setup on a clean, dry chain" as they state in their videos, not on top of an oily chain.

There are different factors at play for chain lube, mostly depending on how/where you ride. If you ride off-road, something to which dirt doesn't stick is often preferable. If you ride in the wet, something that doesn't easily wash off is often preferable. If you ride on-pavement mostly when...

You're not posting because you know they're not capable of showing "the slightest bit of wear" just by their design. So, I take it you're not using the KMC digital checker or the caliper method I outlined in the linked post, above. The post history proves otherwise. I let it go back in April...

No, you actually admitted that yourself: That you NOW, like 6 months later, have 4 (FOUR!) chain checkers shows that you yourself weren't content with the Park Tools checker you previously had. A photo of your chain checker measuring your chain would go a long way to settling this dispute you...

This thread might be of interest to you: https://forums.electricbikereview.com/threads/the-ultimate-mid-drive-chain-care-thread.32918/ Which not only explains how different chain checkers work, but also has links to these chain lube articles...

Well, it's not a loop. They used what they had to calculate Planck's constant and so now the equations define the Kg. Meaning that the physical block in a Paris basement is no longer The Kilogram. It can be lost, it can gain/lose mass, and the copies are no longer needed either. You could fly to...

There was a post here a couple months ago where the poster said his Eco/Sport PAS levels were not alternating. I asked a follow-up question, but didn't get a reply. It's actually not. Maybe this video will help you feel better about it (especially the section starting at 7:30 where they use a...

Is this a set-able parameter, and if so, where? Can you give us a situation or ideally an isolation test in which we can feel the differences? And does it matter how many PAS levels one has set? For instance, I use all 10 levels (0-9), so Eco/Sport doesn't change those for me.

Here's NIST's take, with a ton of history: https://www.nist.gov/si-redefinition/kilogram-introduction

Sorry for being pedantic, but they don't really "stack," as in being additive. They're multiplicative, with the PAS providing an upper limit of power and the Torque/Voltage providing a percentage of that. I've seen no differences in either between Eco and Sport. All those seem to do is choose...

The motor controller doesn't know what display is connected to it, it only knows what parameters have been set via the display cable input. For ECO to be some kind of "factory preset" would mean that on power-up it always resets at least parameters in the Ultra motor controller. I strongly doubt...

There's no known mechanism, even on the BBS, for those parameters to restrict the max speed. Starting with a low current shouldn't matter, assuming you have enough pedal time to get up to speed, and both Keep Current and Current Decay only when not pedaling. Important for me in my testing was...

99 No, it is independent of that. It corresponds to wheel rpm. I believe (but am not 100% sure) that it's independent of Basic Tab's Wheel Diameter.