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Your theory and calculations look interesting. The real life experience could be much different, though. There’s a long time creo rider who posts on another site who moved from a creo 1 to a creo 2 and found he had to significantly detune the creo 2 to prevent it from drastically dropping motor...

I second Stefan’s suggestion of a good bike fit. Another easy thing to check is the saddle tilt angle. My Creo saddle bothered me for the first 500 miles until I learned the front 1/3 or so of the saddle is what should be leveled. That makes the whole saddle appear tilted down but in reality the...

Thank you for demonstrating what I have observed: “In the reviews I read, people who have tried the Clik valves seem to be happy with them. The most negative comments seem to come from those who haven’t tried them.”

I agree - $12 is cheap in the bike world to improve on a minor annoyance that I encounter on every ride. In the reviews I read, people who have tried the Clik valves seem to be happy with them. The most negative comments seem to come from those who haven’t tried them.

Thanks, good to know.

I’d still like to hear about pump gauge accuracy with vs without the head adapter. I read differing opinions and it was hard to tell which were based on experience and which were assumptions.

I’ve never seen any solidified chunks in my tires. I used muc off with mediocre results and now Orange seal with much better results. I check the level every couple of months with s dipstick and top off if needed. I think maintaining a good amount of liquid along with regular use keeps the...

I read a long thread on another site where Clik valve reviewers, many of whom didn’t seem to have actually used them, debated whether a standard pump would read the air pressure accurately. The ‘experiences’ were all over the map and it devolved into lecturing the world on the difference between...

Any indication that the clik valves will be more resistant to sealant plugging than standard presta? I do like the looks of their other properties: no fragile core to bend, better pump head sealing and better flow rate. I thought Fillmore were the answer until I looked at them before buying and...

Seeing this thread come up again reminded me of the original post showing the detailed Varia data. I miss the details I used to see after a ride on my Creo with the Blevo and Specialized apps. Now I ride a BMC with the TQ motor, and find it a big step up from the creo, both in terms of the...

I agree with you and the others that say a Vado sl in sport mode is a big jump up from a sirrus. I went from an older carbon Roubaix (drop bar road bike) to a Vado sl and the Vado sl in eco mode made the same ride 1-2 mph faster. Then I switched to a creo and tuned eco down to 20/35 and beat my...

I agree the Kool Stop Jack does feel lighter duty than I’d like. So far it has helped me mount a couple of gp5000’s, Mondos and now Pirelli p-zeros, all 700X35. Six tires now and each time it did feel a little flimsy but it sure worked well. It does help to keep both beads in the center channel...

This makes installation a lot easier! On my last install I did have to pinch the tire with a small C clamp ahead of the tire jack to keep it from coming out of the channel.

Maybe this will help, in your last statement “The think I cannot understand though is the value of the post-ride stats of Varia”, replace Varia with wahoo, Strava, Garmin, etc. and you will answer your own question yourself.

Your three examples are meaningless - the Varia is not intended to protect you from cross traffic when blasting through an intersection or from hitting a roadside barrier with your face. If you ride on gravel roads without traffic you don’t need one. I find it to be a critical aid riding on...

I agree that my Varia is my most important accessory. I get a few false alarms from traffic on side streets etc, but it almost never misses a car that’s really there. Where did you find all that data?

What sealant are you using? I had several small leaks on gp5000 s tr that would open, then reseal on rides. That was with muc off and then I got a few holes that I plugged with dynaplugs that did the same. I switched to specialized s works mondo tires and orange seal and am having much better luck.

Just saw this - TQ has a new 580Whr battery for the HPR50 motor. It doesn’t sound like it will be a retro fit for the Domane or fuel, but for new bikes. I like that the shape might make for a better looking downtube. It’s hard to tell from the video if the dimensions would allow a smaller...

The trek website has the TQ main battery listed for $749. (US). They show other TQ parts like cables, range extender battery, display, etc. as well. I’ve seen YouTube videos of people removing the motor and battery and it looks pretty straight forward.

First things to check are: Is the chain installed correctly in the praxis chainring? It’s a “wave” design and a diagram on the inside face of the chainring shows the proper link-to-tooth orientation. And is the derailleur clutch in the “on” position?