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It kind of sounds like what they talk about in this TSB. It's intended for shops but there may be some useful info. It's in the manuals listings for Turbo Vado. (Also since the charger plug connector is magnetic, check to make sure it didn't pick up some stray piece of metal.)...

Not a SRAM person but it's my understanding the 12sp from either SRAM or Shimano is picky about mix and match and your brothers advice is probably correct. I sold the Vado SL 5.0 and everything I have now is 11sp. I went with 11-46 on my Creo and 42 front to get the lower gearing for hills...

I've had and seen loose levers on my Creo and others. I believe it's caused by taking the bike in and out of the back of the car(s) and the lever gets bumped. I have a Tailfin axle (similar to a RobertAxle) in the rear that requires a tool to remove and the front is the standard Specialized...

That is a similar problem we had on the Turbo models. I had to remove the battery every day to charge it at my work desk. Eventually I had an intermittent connection and replace the connector. I learned to carefully place the battery and not slam it. It looks like the Vado part is available...

I always wear a helmet and I use lights anytime I am riding but that wasn't the question. The Rider Workbook for the 2024 Turbo Creo 2 has a section on lights starting at page 31 and includes a wiring diagram. The systems are essentially identical to the Vado SL/Creo SL and eliminates some of...

Reference Note - The Rider Workbook for the 2024 Turbo Creo 2 has a section on lights starting at page 31 and includes a wiring diagram. The systems are essentially identical to the Vado SL/Creo SL and eliminates some of the guesswork of what lights work with the system. Creo do not come with...

The 3mm wrench is to used adjust the headset bearing preload. There are two small adjustment nuts under the snap on plastic cover at the base of the stem.

Did you go to the Specialized web page for the particular model Vado SL you are looking to find? Go to the page, select the size and color you are trying to find. Do this even if there is a line through the size or color or there is a box with "out of stock online" on the page. Select the...

It is for the total system weight (and at an assumed dynamic usage). If you are near or slightly over the published weight limit you are riding at your own risk so I try to keep it to Category 1 riding. Don't push your luck with the dynamic loads by hiting sharp bumps with any speed. Also...

A good reference is https://support.specialized.com. Lights are in the Vado SL section. Sometimes you need to look at the Creo section because even though they are the same system they don't duplicate all of the common information so something useful may be in one but not the other. There is...

The wires connect to the system in the frame space under the TCU with two 3mm male spade connectors and possibly one of them is loose. Do a search for p/n S205800002 to find a photo of the spare part light with wire and connectors. The TCU screw is a very small Torx.

If you are a light rider and you only get a flat every year or so, it's not worth it. If you are not riding the bike all of the time it's not worth it because the sealant dries out. I still carry two tubes, a pump and CO2. I average one flat every three or four months and tubeless allows...

Why don't you get the "Street Addressing Service" for your PO Box? It allows you to use the street address of the Post office location.

You can look up the common part numbers on https://support.specialized.com/turbocreosl/en/service-maintenance/replacement-parts and then search www.performancebike.com (Amain cycling) or webshop.bestbike.de. Usually one or the other will have a good illustration of the parts.

I had this happen with a 2015 Turbo S. The torque sensors were built into the hub motor, not repairable and I had to have the motor replaced. Your system is more modular and a Specialized LBS should be able diagnose. Hopefully it's just a dirty or repairable sensor.

I'm 183 cm. I test rode both and picked the L. An XL was too large and the top tube too long. At the time the L was full price and the XL was on sale.

The 100% health figure tells you if the battery is on the expected decline curve. BLEvo is interesting and you need to understand what the actual battery numbers mean or don't mean. It's kind of like when your doctor tells you that you are healthy for your age.

The bottom line.

"The most important is the Standover Height, that is, whether the rider could straddle the top tube. As long the Standover Height is appropriate for the XL, I would try the bigger e-bike of the two (L or XL) as Vado SL is pretty forgiving on geometry." I have to disagree with Stefan that...

If you are fit enough to easily top a Creo out at 28 mph, you might consider Trek Domane or a Specialized Roubaix. You don't need the motor.