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The 3mm wrench is to used adjust the headset bearing preload. There are two small adjustment nuts under the snap on plastic cover at the base of the stem.

Did you go to the Specialized web page for the particular model Vado SL you are looking to find? Go to the page, select the size and color you are trying to find. Do this even if there is a line through the size or color or there is a box with "out of stock online" on the page. Select the...

It is for the total system weight (and at an assumed dynamic usage). If you are near or slightly over the published weight limit you are riding at your own risk so I try to keep it to Category 1 riding. Don't push your luck with the dynamic loads by hiting sharp bumps with any speed. Also...

A good reference is https://support.specialized.com. Lights are in the Vado SL section. Sometimes you need to look at the Creo section because even though they are the same system they don't duplicate all of the common information so something useful may be in one but not the other. There is...

The wires connect to the system in the frame space under the TCU with two 3mm male spade connectors and possibly one of them is loose. Do a search for p/n S205800002 to find a photo of the spare part light with wire and connectors. The TCU screw is a very small Torx.

If you are a light rider and you only get a flat every year or so, it's not worth it. If you are not riding the bike all of the time it's not worth it because the sealant dries out. I still carry two tubes, a pump and CO2. I average one flat every three or four months and tubeless allows...

Why don't you get the "Street Addressing Service" for your PO Box? It allows you to use the street address of the Post office location.

You can look up the common part numbers on https://support.specialized.com/turbocreosl/en/service-maintenance/replacement-parts and then search www.performancebike.com (Amain cycling) or webshop.bestbike.de. Usually one or the other will have a good illustration of the parts.

I had this happen with a 2015 Turbo S. The torque sensors were built into the hub motor, not repairable and I had to have the motor replaced. Your system is more modular and a Specialized LBS should be able diagnose. Hopefully it's just a dirty or repairable sensor.

I'm 183 cm. I test rode both and picked the L. An XL was too large and the top tube too long. At the time the L was full price and the XL was on sale.

The 100% health figure tells you if the battery is on the expected decline curve. BLEvo is interesting and you need to understand what the actual battery numbers mean or don't mean. It's kind of like when your doctor tells you that you are healthy for your age.

The bottom line.

"The most important is the Standover Height, that is, whether the rider could straddle the top tube. As long the Standover Height is appropriate for the XL, I would try the bigger e-bike of the two (L or XL) as Vado SL is pretty forgiving on geometry." I have to disagree with Stefan that...

If you are fit enough to easily top a Creo out at 28 mph, you might consider Trek Domane or a Specialized Roubaix. You don't need the motor.

I usually tuck my pants into my socks for a utility run. I'm not sure a bash guard will prevent the greasy chain mark on your favorite pants or the dreaded "caught pants leg in the chain ring". One small advantage of being older is we don't worry quite as much about fashion looks.

Yes and chains are directional too. Shimano 11sp have an orientation of one face must be outward (2 of 4 orientations) and I think 12sp are restricted to one orientation only (in addition to being more expensive).

I use a Lupine Nano F headlight on my Creo using the Specialized Y-cable adapter part from the Vado SL. The Lupine e-bike compatability chart claims the SL 1.1 system can support up to 12V 8 W although the high beam on the Nano F is 14 watts which I only use at night on fast descents...

It's hard to ride properly when your seat to too sore to sit on the saddle. There is another video on the same Cam Nicholls channel by the fitter: A Simple Approach to Correct Saddle Height (for road cyclists) It's mostly a discussion of why too high is worse than too low.

Are you sure you are looking at a US site?

I consider the road remotes to be a safety upgrade. The remote is too far down for anything other than a quick glance. You see riders without the remotes peering down at their top tubes for longer than is really safe. Also it is easy to drop to the power mode off for flat riding.