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It was a young guy on an un-motorized bike that rear-ended me on a Saturday afternoon, on a narrow bridge pathway (14th St. bridge from DC to Virginia) , full of pedestrians. No damage thankfully. I don't go on the popular paths on the weekends anymore.

I'll just throw my setup in the mix. Schwinn Frontier MTB with 26" wheels and rim brakes. Rider + bike 210 lb. Ridden almost entirely on paved roads/trails & moderate hills. 52T chain ring and 13-28 7-sp freewheel. Top gear used only on flat or downhill. BBS02B and 52V battery.

I don't know if these would fit yours, but these ended my issues with numb, tingling fingers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003FAGDNK

I use these timers and unplug the charger manually: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FRTKBMK/ I've figured out how long to charge my bike, laptop, or smart phone to 80%. I never charge batteries overnight or unattended.

What is the rated nominal voltage, and what voltage have you measured?

Besides being a location prone to damage, weather, distraction, and added weight hindering steering response, I don't want to ride a geeky rolling science project. I ride the bike to escape technology as much as possible.

I've always striven to minimize the stuff on my handlebars.

We're all stupid sometimes. It took 41 posts to get to the simple solution. @Gionnirocket is clearly the least stupid among us. :) Now keep tweaking to make every PAS level useful to you.

FYI, I didn't draw the diagram. It came with v2.2b of the Penov program, which I've attached.

Back to the original question, yes, of course going slower and using less motor will increase range. Drastically, if you don't go much faster than you would without the assistance, only use it to maintain speed on hills etc. I actually enjoy getting away from calculation, test & measurement...

This is a geared hub motor, yes? Sprague (one way) clutch, yes? Disconnect the motor from the controller. If it now rolls backwards freely then there's one or more shorted power FETs in the controller.

Changes everything re the numbers posted for the BBS02. 4 inch tires at 20 psi are going to give shorter range than 2 inch tires at 40 psi.

Did you use all the same current limit, speed limit, start current and keep current numbers? In my normal starting gear, 52t chainring & 19t sprocket, my PAS 1 freewheels at 11 mph (18 kph). For comparison my throttle (PAS 9) in that gear freewheels at 28 mph. Maybe it's because my firmware is...

My tires are 26x1.5 front, 26x1.75 rear, inflated 55 psi front 50 psi rear, total weight ~220 lbs. My 24 mile ride to and around the Arlington Triangle uses about 1/2 the battery. I cruise using PAS 3-5 (higher levels as the battery weakens) at about 32 kph. More about how I determined my PAS...

A steady 600W on level ground seems like a lot. How fast is that? Tire size and pressure? Total weight including you? Would help if you posted your PAS settings. Here's mine (52V 11AH bat):

Although this clip was made for motorcycles it does give some things to think about re ebikes.

Somehow, the latter part of this thread brings to mind "Zen and the art of motorcycle maintenance".

Never e-biking in New York? I can live with that. The streets here are full of electric ride-share bikes. When they take those off the streets, then I'll worry. Police here are kinda busy dealing with 14 y.o. carjackers.

On paper, where you are, that could work okay for an e-biker. Since there's essentially no enforcement you can just ride sensibly and stay under the radar. Wash. DC area has a lot of paved trails through urban and suburban neighborhoods. Straw man. Where I am at least gas powered vehicles...

My take: Guvmint should just post speed limits on shared use paths and forget about classifying e-bikes. Give LEOs on e-bikes radar guns. Cars and motorcycles that can go 100+ mph share the road with much slower city buses, work trucks etc. in, say, a 30 mph zone. Nobody wastes effort sorting...