How would you do it?

Nvreloader

Western Nevada
Region
USA
Guys
If you were figuring out the tongue weight of a Single wheel cargo bike trailer, like this one,
How could you do it?

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The only way I can see, is to make a stake to hold the tongue at the approximate height/location as when attached to the bike, set the stake on a scale's center, then add weights inside the trailer, in these 3 locations of front, middle and rear of the frame basket, to read the indicated tongue weight?
The trailer has a weight limit of 100#'s.

This tongue weight question has been asked, but no information can be found, so far.
Your thoughts or suggestions.............
Tia
 

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Fish scale works, if you buy one with a high enough rating. I’m thinking most inexpensive scales are under 20-ish pounds. And how many times are you going to use it? Your idea of a bathroom scale is good, it has the capacity, but i don’t understand why you need to do it 3 times. Load it up like you normally wolud, and weigh it. The wheel in your picture is at the far back … in a full size cargo trailer the wheels are in the center so its possible to put load behind the axle to reduce tongue weight.
 
Guys/OTG
Since I know nothing about using this type of trailer, I plan on doing a scale check using the OEM 1 rear wheel, check everything, then add the second rear wheel, test the same way, and see the difference, between the two.

I have a feeling that the direct location of the load, will have an effect on the towing and bike handling results.

As this will be my Big game meat/load hauling trailer, I NEED to know the end results, so I don't get cross threaded on the Mtn with a load of meat on it.
If possible, I would like to be able to haul out around 200#'s in a load, to reduce the number of trips back to camp.

Plus, I have the better half's 120+# Shepard that wants to follow the bike,
and I know he can't stand up to a 10+ run.
Thoughts or suggestions......
Tia
 
Here is an example with some assumptions, since I don't know the dimensions of the trailer:

W : Total Trailer Weight (lbs): 225 lbs
Laxle : Total distance from hitch ball to center of axle(s) (ft): 5 ft
Lload : Distance from hitch ball to the center of the load (ft): 2.5 ft
T=W(Laxle - Lload)/Laxle: 225 lbs (5 ft - 2.5 ft) / 5 ft
T= 112.5 lbs
 
Guys/OTG
Since I know nothing about using this type of trailer, I plan on doing a scale check using the OEM 1 rear wheel, check everything, then add the second rear wheel, test the same way, and see the difference, between the two.
Apparently you are not telling us the full story. The picture only shows one wheel … but you mention adding a second … ?
 
OTG
Sorry about that, I split it into 2 parts, here is the rest of the story,

The question of how much tongue weight was brought up in the first part on another site.
Tia
 
It won't matter if there is one wheel or two in the rear as the distance from the axle(s) to the tongue will be the same. The only things that will affect the tongue weight would be shifting the load (center of gravity) forward or backward or moving the wheel(s) forward or backward. You can play with the formula to see how those values affect the tongue weight.
 
Another wheel won't change the tongue weight, it will only change the weight on each wheel. Anyway, you need to be concerned with the gross weight too. Pulling 300 lb uphill and being pushed downhill is going to have a significant effect on your drivetrain and brakes, regardless of tongue weight.
 
Run for
Thank you,

Since I don't have the trailers in hand yet, I am unable to provide any valued
information, for you. The wheels on the trailer are permanent in their location, the only adjustments possible will be the locations of where the load is carried in the trailer, center, forward or backward for CG.

Once I do the tests I'll have more information to work with, and the reason for the 2 tests, I know I'll mark the center line(length ways) on the trailer after the test results.
Tia
 
TT
Thanks,
That question about brakes was brought up, and some of the results were......
IMHO, I feel I should have brakes on the trailer.
I thought of installing Hydro brakes, a complete different separate system that controls the trailer only, and be able to remove (un attach) the front brake handle/tubing back to the trailer, without opening the tubing, storing the removable parts on the trailer, until needed, then reattaching the cable/tubing when needed.

Another answer to the brake option was to use cable/hydro system?, which I haven't found much info on it yet.

I know that my bikes weigh in about 100#'s fully loaded, I am at 200#'s, so there will be some weight there, plus the loaded trailer = 250#'s (trailer weighs 40#'s), = 200#'s for the trailer load. Still researching that brake option.........
Thoughts or suggestions.........
Tia
 
To be honest, you're beyond my technical abilities at this point. But I think you're also on the bleeding edge of safety and just plain enjoyment with the direction you're going.

If you were talking about a grocery run in a small town with tree-lined level streets, sure. Off-road in mountainous terrain, I think you're probably pushing the limits. Among many other things, you're doubling your risk of a flat tire miles from home.

You have a nice idea, but I think there are too many devils in the details to make it practical. Just my opinion.
 
TT
Thanks,
I am not worried about any flat tires, I use Flat Out/HD tubes and always carry a pump,
over 3900, (on OEM tires) so far and no flats, 95% of the riding has been cross country trail riding, everything I own has Flat Out in the tires.
Tia
 
There are two kinds of bike riders. Those who have had flats and those who haven't had flats... yet. As I said, flats are just an example of possible concerns. There are plenty of others.
 
TT
Thanks,
That question about brakes was brought up, and some of the results were......
IMHO, I feel I should have brakes on the trailer.
I thought of installing Hydro brakes, a complete different separate system that controls the trailer only, and be able to remove (un attach) the front brake handle/tubing back to the trailer, without opening the tubing, storing the removable parts on the trailer, until needed, then reattaching the cable/tubing when needed.
that long of of hydro hose may make things pretty mushy. they dos have connectors for tandems like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/2871797537...e7CU6cRuYhL/2rfjQTKLIEHytn|tkp:Bk9SR4SF666rZw

but mechanical would be a better choice.
 
TT
I have had plenty of flats, until I started using Flat Out and HD tubes, that combo seems to solved those problems..........I hope, I also have HD new tires that will be put on this yr, just before hunting season, no use in tempting the clown that likes to throw monkey wrenches in my plans......Lol
Tia
 
I'd use 2 wheels. The trailer can be shorter, you don't have to worry about tongue weight, and the hitch can swivel about the longitudinal axis. Sure enough, all Amazon's bicycle trailers seem to have 2 wheels.

I wouldn't worry about brakes. I can't imagine towing a bicycle trailer fast enough that stopping distance would be critical. If a trailer is light enough to propel with the weight on one bicycle wheel, stopping it with the weight on both bicycle wheels shouldn't be a problem.
 
SW
The trouble with a 2 wheeled trailer is the width of the wheels,
which average 24" to 30" wide, on an 18" wide Trail?
One side or the other is going to be hung up or bouncing over
rocks/sage brush all the time.
If I had trails that were 24" to 36" wide, I would go with a smaller
2 wheeled trailer.

Normal cow/hose trails are about 18" wide sometimes
and normally smaller, in width.
I'll see if I can post some photo's.....
1775408365339.png


After I do my tests, I'll know more information, to work with.
Thanks,
Some interesting reading>>>>>>>https://www.valleyagvoice.com/cattlemans-corner-cow-trails/
 
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