Can someone explain to me e-bike maintenance

[scottsdalecommuter]

just took my 3 year old e-bike in to the LBS for a basic tune-up for the first time since owning it! they put a new chain on, adjusted the brakes which was the primary reason for the visit, and a few other minor things, out the door for like $130 and it rides like new. couldn't be happier!

 

[slitespd]

I understand that some folks use degreaser, but I've never personally found the need & it's a lot more work/mess. That and your chain is going to get dirty almost right away. The only clean chain is the one that doesn't get ridden. I get what I can with a paper towel before each ride. When that mostly stops picking up stains, I lube, wipe, then ride (only lube around every hundred miles). I find White Lightning to be the best lube for my riding conditions. I don't lube a new chain for quite a while - 'till it starts making noise. The stuff that comes on it from the factory is as good as it gets.

“The only clean chain is one that doesn’t get ridden”! Not for the anal retentive…………..mine is clean always.

 

[PedalUma]

“The only clean chain is one that doesn’t get ridden”! Not for the anal retentive…………..mine is clean always.

I strip all the sticky factory glop and the black gunk from new chains. Rinse and then boil in paraffin. It then never gets dirty and never needs lube. A little spray of clear water is all it takes while dusting off a bike. The wax goes between the pins and the rollers for the life of the chain.

 

[Chazmo]

While true for an unpowered bike as well, avoid any form of pressure washing (like a self car wash nozzle). Gentle garden hose pressure, tops, and not on full. As an ebike, water is an enemy to electronics.

Dry thoroughly before (re)attaching battery and clean any and all contact points with same first. Also, frame tubes like to collect water, so bounce the bike in all directions to try to get all water drained out of the tubes too.

 

[spokewrench]

Every 1000 Km. (600 miles) take the Chain off if you can, soak it in Gasoline, brush it off with old Toothbrush and after Drying off with Towel immerse it into a Container with Motor Oil for 30 minutes before reinstalling. If you ride in a salty Environment cut the Maintenace Cyle in half.

I used to do that in the 1950s. A gas soak would clean a chain without brushing. I'd hang it to dry before oiling, then hang it to drip before installing.

Four years ago I switched to a so-called dry lube because with no chain guard, my pants were getting grimy. I learned to apply it with a medical syringe, drop by drop. The stuff seemed to repel dirt. After nearly 3,000 miles of pedaling without assistance most of the time, I found that the pitch was still slightly under 0.5". To see if it was really as clean as it looked, I used a plastic coffee can whose bottom was big enough for the coiled chain. I cut a disc of wire mesh, put it on the bottom, and put the chain on the mesh. It took very little gasoline to cover the chain. I put the lid on and soaked the chain for hours, occasionally agitating by shaking. The mesh held the chain just off the bottom so that any grit would settle below it.

I removed the chain and the mesh. I put the lid back on, allowed 24 hours for any dirt to settle, and gently poured off the gas. A red mud remained. When it dried, it felt like cocoa powder. I guess that was what remained of the lube. I couldn't feel any grit at all.

I believe that Canadian dry lube is even better than advertised.

 

[stompandgo]

$130 for a new chain and tune up is money well spent.

 

[Jeremy McCreary]

While true for an unpowered bike as well, avoid any form of pressure washing (like a self car wash nozzle). Gentle garden hose pressure, tops, and not on full. As an ebike, water is an enemy to electronics.

I generally follow my Specialized manual's recommendation for a wipe-down with a damp cloth but resort to a precision rinse — especially of the drivetrain and brakes — when the bike gets a big salt or sand exposure at or near the beach.

Among many other things, the late @m@Robertson taught me to use a 1-2 gallon garden sprayer filled with plain water for this purpose. With the nozzle set on fan spray, you get an effective lowish-pressure rinse with surgical precision. Easy to give the electricals a wide berth. Drip-dry is sufficient. Photo and details here.

 

[PedalUma]

I did not know of Matt's death. That is what I use. A hand spray bottle with soapy water, then a rinse from a garden sprayer that has only ever had water in it. I little wipe with a soft cloth with some Turtle Wax spray on it makes the bike gleam and gives a protective coating.

 

[Gionnirocket]

Jeez...
I now feel like a rocket scientist being able to adjust a garden hose to accomplish the same without ever an issue

 

[stompandgo]

We are all rocket scientists on this forum.

 

[Gionnirocket]

Just the UL listed ones

 

[PedalUma]

UL certified zip ties were $8 the identical regular ones were $1.25.

 

[stompandgo]

The CE listed ones at Harbor Freight were 99 cents.

 

[CanNik]

Degreasing the chain (I recommend automotive Brake Cleaner) and then wiping it will remove excess of the old lube and a lot of grime. Then I apply the lube a droplet for each roller then wipe the chain again. I ride a lot and I would not believe how clean my chains look, Rob. (Leaving old oil and dirt only attracts more dirt).

Besides, the stock lube is to protect a new chain against corrosion during the storage, not to lube the chain properly.

Seriously, what a faff, just spray with GT85

Years ago we used 3 in 1 oil

 

[Chazmo]

The CE listed ones at Harbor Freight were 99 cents.

Give me mil-spec or give me death.

 

[Gionnirocket]

We've been over this repeatedly.
A UL listing is not a guarantee of quality... Only that it's been tested to be safe.
I've installed many an UL listed product that were total s*it made with the cheapest parts that won't last long.. but also won't burn down the house either.
On the other hand no one is prevented from building a top quality product and decide to not have it UL certified. Hi end / low production runs / custom work can fall in to this category.
A UL listing is always a good thing.. but you need to understand what it actually is... and what it isn't.

 

[Nvreloader]

Ped
Do you have a site that explains your Paraffin waxing method,
Would this be the best method for a HIGHLY MINERALIZED dirt/dust riding conditions?
Tia,
Don

 

[Jeremy McCreary]

Give me mil-spec or give me death.

Martha Stewart all the way for me.