Recent content by username00101

Well, the motors are designed to burn themselves out. The batteries are probably the most reliable thing about the e-bikes, but they come with a list of like 10 points of what to do and what not to do. ranging from totally destroying the battery by accidently charging it below 32F, to totally...

this is why I'm not riding my bike unless temps are well into the 30s. f*ck crashing on ice.

yeah. That watt meter is something I pay attention to closely now. I always thought it was there for fun, not that if it goes above a certain amount it burns out the motor. It would be VERY easy for the computer developer to make the text RED if it goes above 500W so the person knew to stop...

Is there a way to change the shape of the gears to decrease cadence but still spin the motor, such as increasing the diameter of the gear wheel device? So the motor turns but my legs don't have to move as fast to create the turning of the chain? The issue is that high cadence is uncomfortable...

Thanks for the replies on this thread. So to summarize: For the Bafang M600 motor: 1) The only way to know if the motor is stressed is to look at the output watts. 2) Never go above the 600 watt capacity of the motor for more than a second or two 3) The peak 1200 watts is just an...

yeah, that red light is normal. I had the same question. Instruction's are very poor. Evelo should combine all their docs into one, print it out, and provide it with the bike.

Actually you are mistaken. Coolant systems for E-bikes are being explored because there's a need. For example: https://electrek.co/2019/06/14/falco-patent-liquid-cooled-electric-bicycle-motor/

When you see higher sustained Watts like on a long hill, shift to a lower gear and pedal faster as you would on a traditional bike. What about a coolant device that runs water around the motor to cool it down like they have for most other electric vehicles?

I'm using a BAFANG M600 mid drive motor. I run it on mostly flat paved roads. But there's some long hills here. It's nearing on impossible for me to get up the big long steep hill without hitting 600-800 watts for 5 minutes or so, or however long it takes me to get to the top.

Yeah, the dual system gives me roughly 60+ miles with mixed PAS levels. If I get in good shape, and do PAS1 mostly, the bike's dual system could easily get 80...maybe even over 100. There's a "range" feature on the computer. Basically it estimates the total # of miles one can get on the...

So if my motor is 600 watts, and I go on a 20+ mile ride. The terrain being mostly flat. Is the strategy to keep the watts a certain % BELOW 600 at all times? What's the purpose of giving a motor the ability to peak and sustain power that destroys the interior without any warning flashes on...

or what motor you have (important as some are much more forgiving than others). It's a BAFANG M600 I have not considered the temperature of the motor. Why isn't there a temperature gauge like in my car? Where do I buy such a gauge so I don't accidently melt my motor gears?

I was looking for something exact on how to measure this. Anyone have suggestions on what exactly to look for? My computer has a wattage output display. Should I just never let the motor on low RPM's on highest gear rise above the 600 watts that my motor is rated at?

"... It's just a matter of being aware of when the motor might be laboring. Avoid that and you'll be okay." How exactly does one become "aware of when the motor might be laboring".

When riding my mid drive E bike, I find myself riding only on the highest gear when on flat surfaces. The difference being what level of peddle assist I'm on. I like this, because it has a low cadence. I dislike high RPM riding. With PAS1, and the highest gear, I can reliably stay above 20...