Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
Perhaps Marcela you could upgrade to the 12-speed SRAM AXS (the version that fits your HG freehub body) and go electronic?
Specialized Turbo Vado/Como/Tero/Tero X User Club
- Thread starter Stefan Mikes
- Start date
I could dig some electronic shifting. There is a lot of shifting with the 9 spd riding around town, lot of speed change, imagine a 12 spd would be even more. I could see the attraction of higher gear numbers if I was going to maintain a fast pace. Riding the wired ebike which has a 7 spd and that works really well, think if I had to change gear numbers it might be something like an 8 spd, bigger chain, if the gear selection was there. I have adjusted both the 9 and 7 spd gears for better spacing and am happy with them. I did try an 8 spd chain on the 9 spd cassette and it didn't work, well, it did work, but there was noise where the chain would rub the next cog.
I see there is now a 13 spd, that is a lot of gears. I would still try the electronic shifting with fewer gears, probably have to wait for the trickle down effect when they run out of things to change.
The present cable setup has worked well for 6 yrs and almost 4k miles with what should have been only a cable changeout. That's pretty good.
I see there is now a 13 spd, that is a lot of gears. I would still try the electronic shifting with fewer gears, probably have to wait for the trickle down effect when they run out of things to change.
The present cable setup has worked well for 6 yrs and almost 4k miles with what should have been only a cable changeout. That's pretty good.
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
Not only is the 13-speed cassette gross but also almost all 12-speed (and above) cassettes require a special freehub body (that you do not have). A SRAM xD or Shimano Microspline freehub body is necessary to hold a cassette with the smallest 10 or 9 teeth cog. SRAM PG-1230, 12-speed, 11-50T cassette is one of very few 12-speed cassettes that fit the standard HG freehub body (which probably you have on on your e-bike). Now, the electronic SRAM AXS derailleur and a wireless shifter work with such a cassette perfectly.
You are questioning the need of many gears. Well, I like having many gears as I prefer a smooth cadence over a wide range of terrain. For this reason, my mechanical 11-speed drivetrain on Vado and wireless 12-speed one on my Vado SL fulfill my specific needs. Your own preferences can be totally different!
The obvious benefit of the wireless drivetrain is the lack of any cable and very precise shifting that can be adjusted by an app at any time. You can downshift or upshift up to 3 gears at any time with a simple deep click. You can even allow shifting over the whole cassette range with a long press of the button! Yes, it is expensive and you need to recharge the derailleur battery at some time. Not that I recommend the wireless to you, just mentioning the options.
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
I admit I wasn't focusing on the technical side of my Vado 6.0 since March this year. Got lazy and even didn't bother to find my chain checker. Now, it has turned out the chain had stretched to 1% (ouch!) Hopefully, the cassette might still be intact, let's see. My Vado currently requires 124 chain links. Took a 116 one as well as a saved piece of a chain from my storage. Combined both (using a pin and a quick link) to find out I only had 122 links! Fortunately, the Deore XT derailleur is forgiving, so I got away with it 
I'm curious if everything would work right on the morning's shopping ride!
I'm curious if everything would work right on the morning's shopping ride!
I did the brake caliper mount facing on the como and vado and a few other bikes. Makes the calipers perpendicular to the disc. I am well pleased with the outcome, the bikes coast so much better now, even the most careful caliper mounting always ended up brushing the disc and it was a real pita to even get close, lucky was the best way. Surprised how much just a little rubbing effects the coasting. Much easier to center now, I pull the caliper out and snug the fasteners, then tap them in til they center, done. Worth the money if someone can find a competent smith to do it with the tools.
I think the brakes work better also, the disc being perpendicular to the caliper the pistons push completely against the pad, not as if they are angled from the 90 they should be.
I think the brakes work better also, the disc being perpendicular to the caliper the pistons push completely against the pad, not as if they are angled from the 90 they should be.
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Greeting all, a Tero X 5.0 checking in.
Thanks to Stefan for setting up this resource (took me months for my reg to get activated).
I bought my low-mile 2023 Tero X5 in April after discovering ‘SUV e-bikes’ on Alps to Ocean in NZ and have done 1000 miles since then.
My original plan had been to dip into electric with a Kamingo clip-on for my Merida HT, but still waiting over a year later.
Meantime, I’ve had loads of Specialized, right back to the original Stumpjumper in the 80s, so it was a brand I knew among loads I now don’t.
In moto world where I come from, we’d call the Tero X a ‘travel bike’; my sort of machine for all-day exploring the UK back country which I can’t manage on the Merida Big Trail. Early reviews looked great, but in the UK the Tero X5 was a flop; I think e-SUVs more of a European thing.
Back home I did a back to back drag race and the 15-kilo Merida was quicker and faster than Tero, even in Turbo.
But of course with e you can keep going all day. That’s the point.
I’ve swapped the terrible saddle, fitted Ergons, MTB pedals, Quad Lock, drilled for Schraders then fitted Schwalbe Johnny Watts LR tyres and moved the snap-prone front lamp.
I manage everything on Standby/Eco/Trail and have never tried the Mission Control app.
Is it me, or is the micro-tuning of power modes on the go a bit pointless?
Tero X5 like
Went back to Wales for another week – this time heatwave. Schwalbe J Watts definitely better on the road than the worn knobblies and use 10% fewer calories according to TCD. But still got a big thorn flat in Cornwall the other day. Bike shop recommends going tubeless for MTB riding.
I’d say the new Vado 3 X 5.0 replaces the Tero X 5. A lot of real improvements but now 32 kilos.
Pics below from Wales, Cornwall and Dartmoor.
Hope to get a few more rides in before the stormy autumn sets in.
Thanks to Stefan for setting up this resource (took me months for my reg to get activated).
I bought my low-mile 2023 Tero X5 in April after discovering ‘SUV e-bikes’ on Alps to Ocean in NZ and have done 1000 miles since then.
My original plan had been to dip into electric with a Kamingo clip-on for my Merida HT, but still waiting over a year later.
Meantime, I’ve had loads of Specialized, right back to the original Stumpjumper in the 80s, so it was a brand I knew among loads I now don’t.
In moto world where I come from, we’d call the Tero X a ‘travel bike’; my sort of machine for all-day exploring the UK back country which I can’t manage on the Merida Big Trail. Early reviews looked great, but in the UK the Tero X5 was a flop; I think e-SUVs more of a European thing.
Back home I did a back to back drag race and the 15-kilo Merida was quicker and faster than Tero, even in Turbo.
But of course with e you can keep going all day. That’s the point.
I’ve swapped the terrible saddle, fitted Ergons, MTB pedals, Quad Lock, drilled for Schraders then fitted Schwalbe Johnny Watts LR tyres and moved the snap-prone front lamp.
I manage everything on Standby/Eco/Trail and have never tried the Mission Control app.
Is it me, or is the micro-tuning of power modes on the go a bit pointless?
Tero X5 like
- Enables big rides I’d never consider on my Merida
- Pedals easily on Standby
- Smooth cut-off at 26kph (unlike geef’s Yamaha/Lapierre)
- Lights, fenders, rack, dropper
- Clear and functional colour display (no need to RTFM)
- USB charge port
- Good for 100km+ using Standby
- Good brakes
- Not needed Turbo yet
- Heavy when doing gates, etc
- Stiff finger controls compared to Merida
- Front lamp snaps off easily
- Remote switch cluster packed up after days of rain in Wales
- Suspension not brilliant – or maybe just short + too firm tyres?
- Battery lock and charge port cover a bit crap (much better on 2026 Vado 3 X 5.0)
- Battery hard to remove. Long fingernails needed
- Shock wastes triangle space; small bottle only
- Dark Onyx Red needs stadium floodlights to show up
- No top on the rear rack
- One spoke F & R have snapped at the thread. Rusty spoke nipples says the bike shop, showing me many more
- Screechy brakes when pressed hard (even with aftermarket pads)
- OEM chain worn out in 900km? Apparently it’s e-normal. Trying hot wax swaps from now on
- On unavoidable busy roads I sometimes wish UK had 20mph/32kph cut-off, like other places
- Tero makes me appreciate my light Merida a bit more – for short rides
Went back to Wales for another week – this time heatwave. Schwalbe J Watts definitely better on the road than the worn knobblies and use 10% fewer calories according to TCD. But still got a big thorn flat in Cornwall the other day. Bike shop recommends going tubeless for MTB riding.
I’d say the new Vado 3 X 5.0 replaces the Tero X 5. A lot of real improvements but now 32 kilos.
Pics below from Wales, Cornwall and Dartmoor.
Hope to get a few more rides in before the stormy autumn sets in.
Jeremy McCreary
Bought it anyway
- Region
- USA
- City
- Carlsbad, CA
Welcome aboard!
We'd love to see more of your bike in the places you ride. My 3 favorite forum threads are the ones for sharing ride photos.
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Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
Thank you for the extensive and interesting report, @TeroX5!
One good use is to tune the assistance levels as you might optimise the Range even further.
Very nice photos!
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I was test riding a Tero against a Tero X. My choice would be a Tero, as a more lightweight e-bike.
It's the Specialized App now
One good use is to tune the assistance levels as you might optimise the Range even further.Micro Tune is invaluable in case you ride in a group because you can adjust the assistance to ride at the group speed. You certainly do not need it.
The suspension is mostly to help maintaining the traction at all times. My guess is too high inflation pressure?
Mine (on a full power Vado) lasts for 1600 km.
Very nice photos!
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I was test riding a Tero against a Tero X. My choice would be a Tero, as a more lightweight e-bike.
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Anybody been inside their Gen 1 motor? The forward pedaling on mine takes more effort than I'd like, rearward is fine, forward not so. Everything is still smooth, no noises, I'd say working 100% as should. Wondering if there is something a guy could lube up as preventative maintenance or such.
Traded the Electrak Griptons 51x622 for some Blackburn 35x622 on the Vado. Just say no to fat tires. Much less noticeable rolling resistance. These thinner tires kind of remind me of the tires on the first 10 spd 50 yrs ago, not too thin, not too fat. And had to make a trip with the thinner tire on front and the fat tire still mounted to the back to buy the rear tire. No difference between the ride between the two tires really though the front forks are sprung I don't think that makes much of a difference.
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
I don't think it was a quite right action, Marcela. There are as many as four factors you've got rid of by the replacement:
- The tyre profile
- Suspension (ride comfort)
- Traction
- The interaction of the Wheel Circumference with the e-bike system
Wrong tyre profile
Every internal rim width has an optimal tyre width to work with. Your 35mm tyre sits at the extreme lower limit of your 27mm rim. The tire cross-section becomes square instead of round. It makes the ride harsh. The rim will be vulnerable to curb damage.
Loss of suspension (ride comfort)
The volume of a 51-622 tyre is over 4.3 litres, while a 35-622 holds just a little below 2 litres. You have reduced your suspension volume by over half. Also, a thinner tyre requires higher inflation pressure to hold the system weight. It means a significant reduction in the suspension capability.
Traction
A thinner tyre has a way lower contact area with the surface than a fatter one. This means a reduced stopping power and worse traction in general. The squared off shape of the thinner tyre is bad for cornering.
The interaction with the e-bike system
The approximate circumference of the 51-622 tyre is 2,280 mm. The circumference of a 35-622 one is around 2,180 mm. Meaning, every rotation of the smaller tyre delivers 0.1 metre less to the e-bike computer (4.4% less). That affects these e-bike parameters:
- The cut off speed 26.7 mph instead of 28 mph
- Wrong measured cruising speed -- the indicated speed will be higher than the actual
- Wrong distance ridden figure - that affects the odometer, too. A smaller tyre will record a way longer distance ridden than the actual one
- Wrong average speed - a way higher than the actual.
The rolling resistance of a thinner tyre run at a higher pressure than the fatter one at lower pressure is only true if measured on smooth rollers. The real life is different. Even an ideal road is somewhat uneven, not even talking on cracked potholed asphalt or gravel. As a thinner tyre rolls over any road imperfection, the actual rolling resistance is higher than a larger tyre that bends on the same imperfection. The road cycling has moved from 20-23 mm through 25 mm then to 28 mm for smooth roads and even to 33 mm for uneven asphalt. Only several years ago, a standard gravel tyre was either 38 or 42 mm. Now, it is 40 or 45 or 50 or even 57 mm! The bike manufacturers constantly increase the frame/fork clearances for fatter and fatter tyres! And these are not e-bikes but just pedal bikes! Bigger tyres mean wider rims: from 21 to 25 to 30 mm for gravel wheels (yours is 27 mm internal rim width).
Done is done. You've made your decision and think it was right, fine. Just be aware you have gone totally against what the science and what the market think of the tyre size nowadays.
Canyon Grizl:ONfly CF6 (gravel e-bike) on 50 mm tyres with proper rims. The winner of that gravel e-race rode for 66.56 mi in 3 h 45 min, mostly leg power.
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