Why it should be upgraded with a new heavier battery ? It's indeed pretty heavy (20kg).
Specialized Turbo Vado/Como/Tero/Tero X User Club
- Thread starter Stefan Mikes
- Start date
Why it should be upgraded with a new heavier battery ? It's indeed pretty heavy (20kg).
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
You see, it is all about the SL 1.2 motor. Vado SL 4.0 EQ weighed up to 18 kg (SL 1.1 motor and the 320 Wh battery). As Specialized decided to release Vado SL 2, the company used a more power hungry SL 1.2 motor, so it decided to compensate the demand with a larger 520 Wh battery. That way, the weight of Vado SL 2 Alloy went up to 20 kg. If you say Como SL 1 weighs 20 kg (chain or belt/IGH?), the upgrade to SL 1.2 and the new battery would put Como SL 2 upwards to 22 kg (at least).
The Como SL 1 IGH review at EBR gives the verified weight of 21.4 kg. Add the pedals and the 2 kg extra and you come close to 24 kg. It is what my first Vado 5.0 2017 weighed!
So, a Como SL is not a really good idea to have a lighter bike (the Como is really heavy, it can be difficult to handle in some situations).
It‘s been a month and I promised pictures.
Sorry nothing spectacular, remembered to snap one with a sport roller on. My work computer fits nicely, plus my lock, a t-shirt, deodorant…
Did the work trip once every week now and I‘m still working out the best route. More options than I had with the Vado SL (I can choose steeper inclines and still make it).
So far I‘m happy. It‘s a nice ride. Should have bought a stronger pump though for the rear shock. Didn‘t know it goes up to 360PSI and bought a 300PSI pump.
Modifications: SQLab saddle and Bennies pedals (both moved over from the Vado SL.
And a bottle cage.
Sorry nothing spectacular, remembered to snap one with a sport roller on. My work computer fits nicely, plus my lock, a t-shirt, deodorant…
Did the work trip once every week now and I‘m still working out the best route. More options than I had with the Vado SL (I can choose steeper inclines and still make it).
So far I‘m happy. It‘s a nice ride. Should have bought a stronger pump though for the rear shock. Didn‘t know it goes up to 360PSI and bought a 300PSI pump.
Modifications: SQLab saddle and Bennies pedals (both moved over from the Vado SL.
And a bottle cage.
Attachments
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
I do not think you need more than 300 psi. I weigh 105 kg in clothes and pumped 290 psi in the rear damper of a Giant Trance E+ I borrowed for a race.
Are you sure the max is 360 psi? (There are different dampers; mine goes to 350, the pump allows up to 300 as well).
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
I missed your post. What exactly suspensions? What e-bike?Hi,
How do I know if the suspensions are properly adjusted?
Jeremy McCreary
Bought it anyway
- Region
- USA
- City
- Carlsbad, CA
Hoping EBR adds a mind-reading function as AI progresses.
Last edited:
I come in at close to 130 (losing is harder than gaining
) so I‘d feel better with more pressure … worried I‘ll damage something if it gets compressed all the way. Max PSI on the rear shock reads 360 on my Tero X
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
Your damper has probably an O-ring on it. Push the O-ring all the way towards the damper. Open the damper valve with a lever (towards left). Get on the e-bike. Get off the bike. Now, measure the distance between the O-ring and the damper. The correct sag value should be 25% of the total length of the exposed damper cylinder.I come in at close to 130 (losing is harder than gaining
Max PSI on the rear shock reads 360 on my Tero X
Rock Shox says you should first try with the pressure in psi equal to your body weight in pounds. 130 kg is 286 lb, so the initial pressure should be set to circa 290 psi. Only in case the O-ring slips a lot during your test, you should increase the pressure. I rode the Trance with an initial pressure 260 psi. As I weigh 230 lb, the initial pressure should be OK. However, Rock Shox might have forgotten about the suspended e-bike weight. Mine is 26 kg, and the suspended part might be 22 kg. 105 + 22 = 127 kg (280 lb). I used 290 psi and am good.
You are 130 + suspended part of the bike 22 kg = 152 kg. It is 335 lb so 335 psi. However, you absolutely should do the initial sag test first!
Last edited:
Thank you for the detailed explanation Stefan.
Just sat on the bike and the ring ends up at the 40% mark.
Oops
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
Now you will look for a really high pressure shock pump!
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
Yes. You hardly regulate it as it is an undemanding steel coil shock. There is a knob at the top of the left stanchion. You can rotate it anti-clockwise for a softer or clockwise for a more firm suspension. You do rotate the knob when off the bike. Now, when you get on the bike, the suspension will slightly sag under your weight; the point is: the sag should not be big (it is called "initial sag"). Post ride, the fork stanchions will be covered with some dust but there will also be a clean part of it; it is how deep the suspension worked. In a properly set suspension fork, there should remain perhaps a centimetre of the dust space. You can still regulate the fork for a softer or more firm action.Hi,
The fork is suspended on the Como, right ?
I need to point out the suspension will work for slow road oscillation (for example potholes). Rapid road vibration resulting from surfaces such as cobblestone or washboard gravel can only be eliminated by an appropriately low tyre pressure.
When you say ‘top left’, it's the button with the words ‘open/close’, you're looking at the bike in front (it seems obvious but this bike makes so much noise I'm starting to think it's going to break soon)... ?
It's sunday and I have two more questions :
I've installed the front rack (as a customer, I have some things to say about it ! ) but I don't really need the plate, I would like a basket. I know Specialized sells one but I would like another one. Do I need a MIK adapter with this arm ? I really don't get how these things work...
And...I'm getting a new noise when I use the front brake, when it's pressed, let's say ‘halfway’... It's coming from the caliper too, like the noise I'm getting from the rear?
I've installed the front rack (as a customer, I have some things to say about it !
) but I don't really need the plate, I would like a basket. I know Specialized sells one but I would like another one. Do I need a MIK adapter with this arm ? I really don't get how these things work...And...I'm getting a new noise when I use the front brake, when it's pressed, let's say ‘halfway’... It's coming from the caliper too, like the noise I'm getting from the rear?
Last edited:
I don't know how to check these parts, I'm really that stupid.
I would love a practical guide for my bike ; the manual is really not enough for someone as incompetent as me.
Jeremy McCreary
Bought it anyway
- Region
- USA
- City
- Carlsbad, CA
Inexperienced in bicycle tech, yes. Stupid, no. Maybe it's time to let a bike shop help you with these problems. You don't want to mess with brakes if you don't know what you're doing.I don't know how to check these parts, I'm really that stupid.
Similar threads
