Retired and need advise

davidebikes

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USA
What type/brand of bike should I look for? I am 76, and 5'7" and live an area near Atlanta with a moderate amount of hills. I would want one with some seat or bike suspension as I sometimes have back aches. I am looking for something up to $2,000.
thank you!
David
 
There are some pretty fair ebikes out there in that price range.
My advice something with an upright seating position add a comfy suspension seat, at least 500 watt motor 12 ah battery, you maybe should look at the full suspension "EUNORAU", they call it a mtn bike, even though its 350 watt motor"Kev Central" says it pulls very nice,I would avoid the no suspension 20 in Fat Tire Bikes and maybe consider something with a step through design, a 7 speed freewheel should be enough gears, avoid anything too large or small and do not bother with a folding design if you are not transporting this Bike.(IMO)
 
The Momentum LaFree E+ is a little more than your budget but has a strong Yamaha SyncDrive Life mid-drive motor (60nm) for hill climbing. You could arrange a test ride at a Giant dealer if they can get them in stock.

The REI Co-Op CTY e2.1 should come in under your budget, REI may get restocked in early April. These bikes sold out almost immediately they arrived last year so you would have to move fast. It has a less powerful Shimano e5000 motor (40nm) than the Momentum LaFree, but has a suspension fork, and the small frame size is a mid-step.

The Electra Townie Go! 7D is sold through Trek bike and REI stores. This is a popular model because the slack angle seat tube lets you put both feet on the ground when you are stationary. The 250w hub motor is basic (40nm) but like the other bikes this model uses a torque pedal assist sensor instead of a throttle.

All three bikes are Class 1 step-through you can buy from a bike shop or REI who can fit a seatpost suspension like a Kinekt
 
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Depends on your needs, Kev Central claims it did alright.The OP stressed that His routes were not that strenuous, a geared 350 motor in a lighter bike with a smaller rider should do alright.
 
What type/brand of bike should I look for? I am 76, and 5'7" and live an area near Atlanta with a moderate amount of hills. I would want one with some seat or bike suspension as I sometimes have back aches. I am looking for something up to $2,000.
thank you!
David
No one can actually tell you what you should buy, only what they have found to be important, and that being said, My wife is also 5 7, retired, and a bit overweight. She is very happy with her Como3 low step in a size small. I am 5 9 and ride a Como3 diamond frame in a size medium. Both are 250 watt middrive 9 speeds and can climb most anything around Atlanta / North Georgia ( I lived in Cartersville for 10 years ).

Do not get hung up on specs, most mid drives are rated for 250 watts for legal reasons and produce twice that for peak power, and since they use the bikes gears are usually stronger climbers than hub drives.
Suspension also can be deceptive. Often adding weight, not comfort. My bike needs no suspension, and I am bone on bone ... no disks in my back for decades from an industrial accident. I am not even supposed to be able to walk
according to the doctors. Meh. I ride my bike up hills that fit riders on manual bikes can't make, without pain.
So bottom line, go ride some bikes. Rent them and try some terrain like you want to ride, and you'll learn more from a few hours in the saddle than weeks of reading. Welcome to EBR.
 
According to the "ortho" Folks, a persons spine will "fuse" on its own after a choice number of years and you are so right-frame size is important.
I "blanche" when I see those "Roadies" pedaling "Hell for Leather" with necks upright like a turtle with the backs arched like a weasel or otter, I would fall into the nearest ditch if I tried that. The OP has to consider riding"attitude" as well and fortunately, there seems to be a bike or handle bar setup that can fit nearly everyone( never thought I would like an old "Western Flyer' rig at this stage and son of a gun, it works for me
 
OP, do like the song sez-" Don't get hooked on the very first one," I am selling a bike for a bargain that might suit someone of your stature, shame we are not close by. It would be sweet if you could try out various bikes for a week before purchase( regret that I didn't have that option)
These Folks here will not steer you wrong.
 
According to the "ortho" Folks, a persons spine will "fuse" on its own after a choice number of years and you are so right-frame size is important.
I "blanche" when I see those "Roadies" pedaling "Hell for Leather" with necks upright like a turtle with the backs arched like a weasel or otter, I would fall into the nearest ditch if I tried that. The OP has to consider riding"attitude" as well and fortunately, there seems to be a bike or handle bar setup that can fit nearly everyone( never thought I would like an old "Western Flyer' rig at this stage and son of a gun, it works for me
Yep. The fit and frame geometry matter. When I see an ad saying that our "one size wonder frame" fits all riders and all terrains, I think " and I have a bridge to sell you, too".
 
My "geometry" is a bit different from the standard person with more on the torso. less on the all important "bottom end" Scarce to nonexistent quads, no gluteus to mention and low "T" so frame size makes a large difference to Me, a Cruiser style lets me put some leverage on the rest of the Bike and with the right cadence( I can go for miles) however without the urging of the electric motor it is a frustration to me.
The funny thing is, some high end EBikes pedal easier without assist than some cheap big box bikes.( a "Specialized" is bliss)
 
s, most mid drives are rated for 250 watts for legal reasons and produce twice that for peak power, and since they use the bikes gears are usually stronger climbers than hub drives.

Still not true. Except for expensive mountain bike models with a dish sized low sprocket, most bike "gears" increase speed, not torque. What mid drives will do better than geared hub motor is climb 1000' in a hour, whereas geared hub motors would overheat. There are no 1000' rise mountains within 700 miles of Atlanta.
 
Still not true. Except for expensive mountain bike models with a dish sized low sprocket, most bike "gears" increase speed, not torque. What mid drives will do better than geared hub motor is climb 1000' in a hour, whereas geared hub motors would overheat. There are no 1000' rise mountains within 700 miles of Atlanta.
Not going to argue about generally this or that. A 250 watt rear hub on an Electra or a Voltbike vs a 250 watt middrive on a Verve or Vado. A 20 percent hill. Which wins?
 
Not going to argue about generally this or that. A 250 watt rear hub on an Electra or a Voltbike vs a 250 watt middrive on a Verve or Vado. A 20 percent hill. Which wins?
Rider is in highest gear at 100 bpm. Ditto for all of those bikes. You're not climbing on motor alone,
 
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