Volt Bike Mariner 2016: So far so happy! Observations as they happen.
- Thread starter Cnugget
- Start date
I tested the range of the battery on my new Mariner. I set the display parameter so that manual full throttle would match the PAS level. I used full throttle without peddling at a constant PAS level of 4. I took several breaks during the trip. This was my 3 rd charge of the battery. So, I expect that I am probably experiencing the peak performance of the battery. I returned to the same location from which I started. So, I went downwind as much as I went upwind. Still, I'm sure that the wind decreased my overall range. Here are the parameters and results of the test:
Range: 16.7 miles
Payload: 250 pounds
Average Moving Speed: 11.8 mph
Terrain: Flat paved surface
Tire Pressure: 30 psi
Measuring Device: Garmin Vivoactive HR (GPS)
PAS: 4 (Throttle only / no pedaling)
Total elapsed time: 1:53:37 (including breaks)
Moving Time: 1:24:57
Max Speed: 13.9 mph
Wind speed: 10 mph
The display speed and distance were pretty close to those measured by my GPS. I had the wheel diameter set at 22". I'll bet that the display computer adds 2" inches to the wheel diameter to account for the increase in diameter resulting from an average tire. However, our tires probably add closer to 4 inches to the wheel diameter. This is probably why a 22" wheel diameter yields the best match for the GPS measurements.
I thought that the resulting range with no pedaling was pretty good considering the large payload.
Range: 16.7 miles
Payload: 250 pounds
Average Moving Speed: 11.8 mph
Terrain: Flat paved surface
Tire Pressure: 30 psi
Measuring Device: Garmin Vivoactive HR (GPS)
PAS: 4 (Throttle only / no pedaling)
Total elapsed time: 1:53:37 (including breaks)
Moving Time: 1:24:57
Max Speed: 13.9 mph
Wind speed: 10 mph
The display speed and distance were pretty close to those measured by my GPS. I had the wheel diameter set at 22". I'll bet that the display computer adds 2" inches to the wheel diameter to account for the increase in diameter resulting from an average tire. However, our tires probably add closer to 4 inches to the wheel diameter. This is probably why a 22" wheel diameter yields the best match for the GPS measurements.
I thought that the resulting range with no pedaling was pretty good considering the large payload.
Cnugget
Active Member
How do you do this?
Here are pictures of the new bell, derailleur cage and chainstay protector on the Mariner. I have also included a picture of the entire bike which includes the longer seat post that I have added due to my height of 6'2". I rode 24.5 miles yesterday. I still had more battery, but had to quit due to seat pain. I'm definitely going to get a new seat!
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Enter the settings mode of the display by double clicking the power button. Then click the power button repeatedly to scroll through the settings till you get to PSd. Enter the password 1919. Then click the power button repeatedly to scroll through the settings till you get to HdP. Press the + button to set HdP to 1=ON. That causes the maximum throttle power to match the PAS level as previously posted by @SuperGoop.
Yes, the bell looks like the Oi. It has a long loud pleasant tone with a single ring. As you can see it's conveniently located, looks nice, and takes up little room in the cockpit area. A sweet upgrade.Those grips look different too!! Are those factory? Is it thumb throttle still or?
Yes, the grips are factory. I found the grips to be uncomfortable without gloves. They tend to grip your hands which I guess is a good thing. I prefer ergonomic grips myself and will probably be ordering some Ergon grips like I have on my other bikes. Ergonomic grips are still OK as there is still a thumb throttle and not a twist throttle.
The shaking battery noise issue appears to be caused by the slot in the battery being much thicker than the thickness of the rail onto which the battery slides. There is a lot of play there. My handi-wipe solution seems to be working for now. It is somewhat inconvenient and looks tacky, but gets the job done. I'll work on coming up with a better solution. At least that's only a minor issue. Perhaps @Voltbike might send me a fix, such as a thicker rail, if he comes up with one. I imagine that I'm not the only one experiencing this issue now that I believe that I have determined the nature of the problem.
The folded handi-wipe is placed between the seat tube and the battery to prevent the battery from shaking due to the loose fit on the slide rail. Like I said, I'll work on a more elegant solution as it takes a little effort to get the handi-wipe to slide in there while inserting the battery. I will find something to stick more permanently to the battery case to fill that space.
The folded handi-wipe is placed between the seat tube and the battery to prevent the battery from shaking due to the loose fit on the slide rail. Like I said, I'll work on a more elegant solution as it takes a little effort to get the handi-wipe to slide in there while inserting the battery. I will find something to stick more permanently to the battery case to fill that space.
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Cnugget
Active Member
Happy 1600 miles bikey!
Sounds better at 2600 km's though.
So $1CAN per mile mark.
Back to biking to work thanks to a little push from the local HUB Bike to Work Week and some nice weather.
Distance is 10mi/ 16km but over 500m or 1500ft Elevation Gain. Usually with this much eGain my battery starts at the full 5 Bars down to 3 Bars. It's a short distance but a steep one through 3 creek valleys. When the battery was new, I was able to go both ways 20mi /32km but now it is just shy of enough battery to cover the distance. Weather, weight, physical input now have more impact on my ability to return with a battery. During nice summer daylight hours risking a single charge is in the plans... For now, I'll continue to re-charger each way.
The bike is still operating.. though I have more handlebar shudder at higher speeds going downhill due to a couple of falls over winter. My lights do have some kind of possible wiring issue that has been ongoing since day 1.. but I have yet to bother Volt Bike about it. Hopefully it is a simple fix because having factory lights (even dim ones) is very handy. Mine like to turn off or not turn on but my screen will still be backlit. The bike is due for another gear adjustment at a LBS soon. Until then, I will just deal with the clicky clicky sounds.
Sounds better at 2600 km's though.
So $1CAN per mile mark.
Back to biking to work thanks to a little push from the local HUB Bike to Work Week and some nice weather.
Distance is 10mi/ 16km but over 500m or 1500ft Elevation Gain. Usually with this much eGain my battery starts at the full 5 Bars down to 3 Bars. It's a short distance but a steep one through 3 creek valleys. When the battery was new, I was able to go both ways 20mi /32km but now it is just shy of enough battery to cover the distance. Weather, weight, physical input now have more impact on my ability to return with a battery. During nice summer daylight hours risking a single charge is in the plans... For now, I'll continue to re-charger each way.
The bike is still operating.. though I have more handlebar shudder at higher speeds going downhill due to a couple of falls over winter. My lights do have some kind of possible wiring issue that has been ongoing since day 1.. but I have yet to bother Volt Bike about it. Hopefully it is a simple fix because having factory lights (even dim ones) is very handy. Mine like to turn off or not turn on but my screen will still be backlit. The bike is due for another gear adjustment at a LBS soon. Until then, I will just deal with the clicky clicky sounds.
Joaquin V
New Member
Hi guys,
Very helpful comments in this thread! I'm new to all the Ebike world and wanted to make the Mariner my first Ebike. I purchased it on 5/29 but my order is still in processing status. It's shipping to Ohio, USA. Do you know how long it takes before it changes status to Shipping?
Another one: how do you lock your bikes? I'm mainly using it for commuting to work nearby a Uni campus. I know I should buy a Gold rated lock, but have you tried any specific U-locks for this model? I wouldn't mind buying two U-locks to secure this bike!
Very helpful comments in this thread! I'm new to all the Ebike world and wanted to make the Mariner my first Ebike. I purchased it on 5/29 but my order is still in processing status. It's shipping to Ohio, USA. Do you know how long it takes before it changes status to Shipping?
Another one: how do you lock your bikes? I'm mainly using it for commuting to work nearby a Uni campus. I know I should buy a Gold rated lock, but have you tried any specific U-locks for this model? I wouldn't mind buying two U-locks to secure this bike!
Cargo Bike Trailer Josh
New Member
I'd recommend getting the biggest most intimidating lock possible as well as running a cable through your wheels, seat, and battery. I have 18mm thick Forgetaboutit U-lock. It weighs a ton but well worth it. I've seen motor cyclists even use it for their motorcycles!
Joaquin V
New Member
Good advice, I am ordering that u-lock today. What chain would you recommend for battery, seat and tire?
Cargo Bike Trailer Josh
New Member
Hi Joaquin! I take the key out of my battery at the "lock" position but run a Kryptonite 7 foot long cable through the handle as a secondary theft deterrent. That same cable I run through the bottom of my seat (which has a little handle under the rear of it), through both front and rear tires, and then finally locked through the U-lock which is locked to the frame.
Cnugget
Active Member
RE: Lock for Mariner.
Court has a nice over view vid on locking a bike in general.
I have the https://www.litelok.com/
It's rated at the Gold standard purchase overseas shipped to CAN. We bought two and they can be joined together to make one long lock or be used individually (two with the same keys).
The lock feels solid and is a large visible piece.. It is indeed wider and heavier than I pictured in my mind. You can see the lock on my bike back in photos on Page 4 of this thread.
I have struggled to get the lock closed sometimes because I'm a bit of a wimp but it gets easier with understanding. It more like setting a tight spring that would rather stay flat if you can imagine.
It does have a limited circumference as a single lock. The diameter is between 8-9.5" possibly more if you are able to squeeze it into a more oval shape but the might require fighting with the lock and the bike rack more than you'd like. The length when straight is 29"(one lock, not including the interlocking section). It weighs 39.2oz or ~2.5lbs for each lock. Now is that lightweight?
Because the tires are 4" and the spokes from a 20" wheel are closely spaced it leads to complications getting it around the rear tire/frame and what ever you are securing it too. It is possible, but not always. Usually this mean a compromise of just securing the frame to the bike rack or the tire (with the motor). I think I have only once been able to lock it with the rear tire, frame and bike rack. Perhaps it was due to lack of imagination or time.
With two locks joined together you get much more range of use. I could flatten the two together to get a radius of ~25?" (maybe a wee bit more even).. Lots of play to setup around something awkward or fold the bike in half and lock the frame front and back tires. The down side is you could give potential thief enough play to make it easier to cut. If someone wants something they will find a way to take it. This bike does catch the attention of others so it might be good to lock it down.
The exterior casing looks almost new (minus a few stray bits). Pretty sturdy and seems to shed dirt well.. (unlike my bike)..
Court has a nice over view vid on locking a bike in general.
I have the https://www.litelok.com/
It's rated at the Gold standard purchase overseas shipped to CAN. We bought two and they can be joined together to make one long lock or be used individually (two with the same keys).
The lock feels solid and is a large visible piece.. It is indeed wider and heavier than I pictured in my mind. You can see the lock on my bike back in photos on Page 4 of this thread.
I have struggled to get the lock closed sometimes because I'm a bit of a wimp but it gets easier with understanding. It more like setting a tight spring that would rather stay flat if you can imagine.
It does have a limited circumference as a single lock. The diameter is between 8-9.5" possibly more if you are able to squeeze it into a more oval shape but the might require fighting with the lock and the bike rack more than you'd like. The length when straight is 29"(one lock, not including the interlocking section). It weighs 39.2oz or ~2.5lbs for each lock. Now is that lightweight?
Because the tires are 4" and the spokes from a 20" wheel are closely spaced it leads to complications getting it around the rear tire/frame and what ever you are securing it too. It is possible, but not always. Usually this mean a compromise of just securing the frame to the bike rack or the tire (with the motor). I think I have only once been able to lock it with the rear tire, frame and bike rack. Perhaps it was due to lack of imagination or time.
With two locks joined together you get much more range of use. I could flatten the two together to get a radius of ~25?" (maybe a wee bit more even).. Lots of play to setup around something awkward or fold the bike in half and lock the frame front and back tires
. The down side is you could give potential thief enough play to make it easier to cut. If someone wants something they will find a way to take it. This bike does catch the attention of others so it might be good to lock it down.The exterior casing looks almost new (minus a few stray bits). Pretty sturdy and seems to shed dirt well.. (unlike my bike)..
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Cnugget
Active Member
MARINER AND SEDAN TRUNK:
3000 km's today YAY! My bike had a special surprise in store for me to celebrate this occasion memorably.
While heading to work in the rain I got a flat! Ak Then it tipped over onto the gear side while trying to sort out a ride. I pulled everything off of the bike and then my battery (which was minding it's own business) got by bumped and tipped over too!! Ahhhhh.. The taxi arrived and just fit my bike into the back trunk of the Toyota Corolla (newer model) but alas the lid would not close.. So for all you people wondering if it might fit in a standard sized trunk of a sedan, the answer is likely no.. UNLESS... you like to keep an open trunk with bungees or have a larger that average trunk.. Of note:
I don't have the gear protector like the new versions have(yes I am a bit envious) .. This may impair getting a bike into the trunk. .
I will be going to an LBS today (they groaned when I said it was a rear hub electric with a flat on the back). Oh dear.. Just trying to get it up and running ASAP. I must learn to be more mechanically sound. Unsure of the required repairs involved at this point. Hopefully it won't be a exciting as the morning. Fingers & toes crossed...
-Keep you gear shift-r protected
3000 km's today YAY! My bike had a special surprise in store for me to celebrate this occasion memorably.
While heading to work in the rain I got a flat! Ak
Then it tipped over onto the gear side while trying to sort out a ride. I pulled everything off of the bike and then my battery (which was minding it's own business) got by bumped and tipped over too!! Ahhhhh.. The taxi arrived and just fit my bike into the back trunk of the Toyota Corolla (newer model) but alas the lid would not close.. So for all you people wondering if it might fit in a standard sized trunk of a sedan, the answer is likely no.. UNLESS... you like to keep an open trunk with bungees or have a larger that average trunk.. Of note:I don't have the gear protector like the new versions have(yes I am a bit envious) .. This may impair getting a bike into the trunk. .
I will be going to an LBS today (they groaned when I said it was a rear hub electric with a flat on the back). Oh dear..
Just trying to get it up and running ASAP. I must learn to be more mechanically sound. Unsure of the required repairs involved at this point. Hopefully it won't be a exciting as the morning. Fingers & toes crossed...-Keep you gear shift-r protected
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Joaquin V
New Member
Thanks! Got it insured now I was wondering: how tight should I feel the breaks? In a regular bike going at full speed I could break to a full stop in 3,5s. When I'm on this monster, it feels like eternity to stop. Perhaps the breaks are a little loose. Any feedback on this?
I was wondering: how tight should I feel the breaks? In a regular bike going at full speed I could break to a full stop in 3,5s. When I'm on this monster, it feels like eternity to stop. Perhaps the breaks are a little loose. Any feedback on this?Similar threads
