Turbo Vado 3.0 - Confirmed 28mph

[Lawrence lanes]

There’s another thread in the specialized forum with a “clunking” problem with the Vado 3 in turbo mode. Turns out that the problem was the small sprocket on the rear cluster which they switched for a Shimano one and that solved the problem . I’m experiencing a very intermittent clunk In turbo mode when riding fast which seems like what this fellow was describing. No dropping into neutral though. Still haven’t been able to get my display updated out of demo mode, though.

 

[DarthVado]

I sense they have a problem with the deraileur/cassette combination on the 3.0. I asked to have the deraileur upgraded, but Specialized denied the request. I'm having the bike tuned again, hoping for better results. BTW, my problem was with the 11T and other higher gears.

I had that exact thing happen to me once so far: I was pedaling and then it just went into "neutral," I don't know how else to explain it. Like some kind of clutch mechanism skipped or something.

I've had the chain skip or clunk when in the highest gear. It also happened to my wife's 3.0 and the shop changed the rear cassette out for a 36T and the problems got better. It hasn't been bad enough on mine to warrant a trip to the shop (...yet).

I had the shop change the cassette to a Praxis Works 10spd MTB 11-40t. Everything works fine now, no clunking or revving ('neutral') problems. Seems like the cassette was the main problem for me. Specialized had to authorize the change to have it covered under the warranty.

 

[PhilRW]

I had the shop change the cassette to a Praxis Works 10spd MTB 11-40t. Everything works fine now, no clunking or revving ('neutral') problems. Seems like the cassette was the main problem for me. Specialized had to authorize the change to have it covered under the warranty.

That is really good to hear -- I just had to take it in this weekend because the problem got so bad I was afraid I'd get stranded somewhere. The shop changed out the cassette today. After I ride it for a while I'll report back here.

 

[PhilRW]

So far so good. Grinding feeling is mostly gone, although shifting into smallest gear occasionally still slips/doesn't catch.

 

[billchilds]

I just went through this with my 3.0, and our local shop (Bicycle Sport Shop) switched it for a 36T cassette and it's 100% better. They have informed the rest of their shops. It just isn't the right cassette.

 

[RalphL]

Hello, I'm new the the forum and it looks like I have experienced similar issues with my Turbo Vado 3.0 purchased October 2017. First thing was that assist was limited to 16mph (reset to 28+ mph by LBS), clunking of gear when on 11T ring. I self diagnosed this as a stiff link in the chain, fixed it myself. However, the clunking returned and then the chain snapped while at furthest point from home in 20 deg F winter weather. Rescued by my wife. Brought back to LBS and they said that the chain was not the right size. Replaced chain. Everything is better. After charging or attempting to charge the battery, the computer would not turn on. I removed the computer and let it discharge for about 20 min, problem solved. I've had 3 tube blowouts, 2 with original tires/tubes and 1 with new armadillo tire and tube, no apparent punctures. The last blowout occurred while bike was locked to a post while I played golf. Appears that I was using too much pressure (90lbs per LBS advice). I have now ordered two new armadillo e-bike 2.0 700c x 51 tires and extra thick (4mm) thorn proof tubes. Haven't put them on yet. I've been running with 70lbs pressure and new tubes with armadillo 700c x 45 tires now and no problems. I love the bike and really enjoy riding it. Seems like it had a bunch of issues to get ironed out before settling down. I have about 700 miles on it so far. Cheers.

 

[Ryan Newman]

Hello, I'm new the the forum and it looks like I have experienced similar issues with my Turbo Vado 3.0 purchased October 2017. First thing was that assist was limited to 16mph (reset to 28+ mph by LBS), clunking of gear when on 11T ring. I self diagnosed this as a stiff link in the chain, fixed it myself. However, the clunking returned and then the chain snapped while at furthest point from home in 20 deg F winter weather. Rescued by my wife. Brought back to LBS and they said that the chain was not the right size. Replaced chain. Everything is better. After charging or attempting to charge the battery, the computer would not turn on. I removed the computer and let it discharge for about 20 min, problem solved. I've had 3 tube blowouts, 2 with original tires/tubes and 1 with new armadillo tire and tube, no apparent punctures. The last blowout occurred while bike was locked to a post while I played golf. Appears that I was using too much pressure (90lbs per LBS advice). I have now ordered two new armadillo e-bike 2.0 700c x 51 tires and extra thick (4mm) thorn proof tubes. Haven't put them on yet. I've been running with 70lbs pressure and new tubes with armadillo 700c x 45 tires now and no problems. I love the bike and really enjoy riding it. Seems like it had a bunch of issues to get ironed out before settling down. I have about 700 miles on it so far. Cheers.

Where are you located and what is the name of the shop that reset your speed limit? I’m limited to 20 mph and would really like to see an increase in my top speed if possible.


Does anyone else out there know how to reset the speed? I’d love to hear from you.

 

[lewes5]

Skipping gears is not a major problem! It can happen on any bike, conventional or ebikes. Skipping gears means the derailleur is out of adjustment. (Or skipping can also mean the cage holding the small idler wheels is bent.) YouTube has a boat load of videos about replacing and adjusting the rear derailleur. It’s not rocket science but patience is the key. On the other hand, a good LBS can correct the skipping in about 10 minutes.
I upgraded the rear cassette and derailleur on my Trek road bike from Deore and 105 respectively to Ultegra. Much faster, smoother and quieter shifts. No clunks. <grin>

 

[MisterM]

Skipping gears is not a major problem! It can happen on any bike, conventional or ebikes. Skipping gears means the derailleur is out of adjustment. (Or skipping can also mean the cage holding the small idler wheels is bent.) YouTube has a boat load of videos about replacing and adjusting the rear derailleur. It’s not rocket science but patience is the key. On the other hand, a good LBS can correct the skipping in about 10 minutes.
I upgraded the rear cassette and derailleur on my Trek road bike from Deore and 105 respectively to Ultegra. Much faster, smoother and quieter shifts. No clunks. <grin>

Skipping can also be caused by a stiff link - carefully watch your chain to see if there's a link that doesn't fully seat on the cassette. Can use a chain tool to free up the link.

 

[Mixyblob]

Skipping can also be caused by a stiff link - carefully watch your chain to see if there's a link that doesn't fully seat on the cassette. Can use a chain tool to free up the link.

I also believe skipping can be due to a small (11T) worn sprocket

 

[manrubia]

There is a big difference in gearing between the Vado 3.0 and Vado 5.0/6.0. The Vado 3.0 has a 40T chain ring while the Vado 5.0/6.0 have the same 48T that all of the previous generation Turbos did. They all have an 11T small sprocket on the rear 10 or 11 speed clusters.

The cadence needed to hit 28 mph on the Vado 3.0 is 97 rpm in the highest (10th) gear (40T-11T) and is 115 rpm in 9th gear. The cadence to cruise at 28 mph on the Vado 5.0/6.0 is just 80 rpm in top (11th) gear (48T-11T) and 96 rpm in 10th gear.

So even if the Brose mid drive on the lesser Turbo Vado's is set up to handle 28 mph at a cadence of around 100 rpm, the stock gearing on the Vado 2/3/4 bikes is not optimal. Most of us are not professional class athletes, so maintaining a cadence of 100+ rpm is pretty difficult.

OTOH, purchase a larger chainring and you should be able to gear the Vado 3.0 for a more comfortable high speed cruise.

Doug

I agree. The simple solution to maintain 28-30 mph on a Vado 3.0 without high speed peddling is to change out the smaller 40 t sprocket for a 48 t sprocket. This also means you have less peddling at all speeds. I'm 78 years old and this minor change makes riding at all speeds very enjoyable. Not sure what the long term effect is on the Vado 3.0 motor.

Bob

 

[Oscar66]

There is a big difference in gearing between the Vado 3.0 and Vado 5.0/6.0. The Vado 3.0 has a 40T chain ring while the Vado 5.0/6.0 have the same 48T that all of the previous generation Turbos did. They all have an 11T small sprocket on the rear 10 or 11 speed clusters.

The cadence needed to hit 28 mph on the Vado 3.0 is 97 rpm in the highest (10th) gear (40T-11T) and is 115 rpm in 9th gear. The cadence to cruise at 28 mph on the Vado 5.0/6.0 is just 80 rpm in top (11th) gear (48T-11T) and 96 rpm in 10th gear.

So even if the Brose mid drive on the lesser Turbo Vado's is set up to handle 28 mph at a cadence of around 100 rpm, the stock gearing on the Vado 2/3/4 bikes is not optimal. Most of us are not professional class athletes, so maintaining a cadence of 100+ rpm is pretty difficult.

OTOH, purchase a larger chainring and you should be able to gear the Vado 3.0 for a more comfortable high speed cruise.

Doug

Hey. The Vado 3.0 (1,2 motor) has limit speed 26km/h in Europe. It could be better if 32km/h was the top speed, but its down loaded from fabric i think. Anyway is Vado turbo great bicycle

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Hey. The Vado 3.0 (1,2 motor) has limit speed 26km/h in Europe. It could be better if 32km/h was the top speed, but its down loaded from fabric i think. Anyway is Vado turbo great bicycle

Not "in Europe". In Norway. It is 25 km/h there.

Many EU countries allow the "S-Pedelec" of L1e-B class. It is a 45 km/h e-bike treated exactly like a moped. Such vehicle needs numerous safety features and certification, registration, insurance, holding a driving license and wearing the helmet. Vado 6.0 as offered in several EU countries is an example of L1e-B. I know because I ride one (but it is a 2017 Vado 5.0)

The current offering in Germany (and in Poland, for example):

Turbo Vado 6.0

Als wir uns daran machten, unsere Turbo Bikes zu überarbeiten, war unser Motto, dass "das geschäftige Treiben in Städten schnellere, universell einsetzb...

www.specialized.com

See the number plate for my Vado:

 

[Oscar66]

Not "in Europe". In Norway. It is 25 km/h there.

Many EU countries allow the "S-Pedelec" of L1e-B class. It is a 45 km/h e-bike treated exactly like a moped. Such vehicle needs numerous safety features and certification, registration, insurance, holding a driving license and wearing the helmet. Vado 6.0 as offered in several EU countries is an example of L1e-B. I know because I ride one (but it is a 2017 Vado 5.0)

The current offering in Germany (and in Poland, for example):

Turbo Vado 6.0

Als wir uns daran machten, unsere Turbo Bikes zu überarbeiten, war unser Motto, dass "das geschäftige Treiben in Städten schnellere, universell einsetzb...

www.specialized.com

See the number plate for my Vado:

Hey, and thanks for answer. There is many of them for sale, with lower price. It’s not a problem to get with plate and do the reg processes, but i wonder if they are weaker both specialized cost 3000 eur new. There is not mutch to win at my roads to job 9 km away, maybe 3 min with cars. So i will wait until i need to shift bicycle. Do you know any things is new from 2018 - 2020 mod vado 3.0?

 

[Stefan Mikes]

There is many of them for sale, with lower price.

If you mean the 45 km/h version, don't buy anything older than Model Year 2020 because of the electronics issues (the new TCD-W display available in 2020 models is just fantastic).

Not many things have changed in Vado 3.0 since 2018. The major change in 2020 was introducing the TCD-W display that is reliable, works with the smartphone (Mission Control app), and that change is worth the upgrade. I rode my Vado with the older BLOKS display and now it has been upgraded with the TCD-W. Night and day... My 2017 Vado 5.0 now behaves as the 2020 Vado 6.0. Same with the 3.0.

 

[Oscar66]

If you mean the 45 km/h version, don't buy anything older than Model Year 2020 because of the electronics issues (the new TCD-W display available in 2020 models is just fantastic).

Not many things have changed in Vado 3.0 since 2018. The major change in 2020 was introducing the TCD-W display that is reliable, works with the smartphone (Mission Control app), and that change is worth the upgrade. I rode my Vado with the older BLOKS display and now it has been upgraded with the TCD-W. Night and day... My 2017 Vado 5.0 now behaves as the 2020 Vado 6.0. Same with the 3.0.

The tyre trigger rear is almost finish after 600 km. Is that normal?

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Is that normal?

No... What makes you think it is worn out? (6000 km or more might wear a tyre).

 

[Oscar66]

No... What makes you think it is worn out? (6000 km or more might wear a tyre).

Its not flat, but has not mutch in the middle vs front tyre

 

[Oscar66]

Its not flat, but has not mutch in the middle vs front tyre

This is my Vado 3.0. 20 january 2020, but 2019 mod

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Its not flat, but has not mutch in the middle vs front tyre

It looks OK to me. The centre of the tread is meant to be quiet on road, while the knobbies outside are for off-road and cornering. If the rubber is not cracked (especially on sidewalls), ride without worries!