Hey everyone,
Just wanted to share something I tried recently that a lot of DIY e-bike builders have probably wondered about:
Can a 72V motor work with a 52V battery?
I’ve been putting together my own builds for a few years now, and this time I wanted to see if I could reuse my old 52V battery with a 72V hub motor instead of buying a new pack right away. Here’s what I found.
I’m running a 5000W rear hub motor with a 52V 20Ah battery from my previous build.
The controller was originally configured for 72V, but since most programmable controllers have a voltage range, I figured it might still run fine.
Startup went smoothly. The motor spun up without issue, throttle felt okay, and for a moment, I thought I’d found the perfect money-saving workaround.
On flat ground, it rode fine — just slower than expected.
Torque was noticeably weaker, and on inclines, it became obvious that the motor wasn’t getting enough current.
Performance dropped about 25–30%. My 5000W e-bike suddenly felt like a 3000W version.
Under heavy throttle, voltage sag hit hard. After around 15–20 minutes, the controller began cutting power intermittently — probably low-voltage protection kicking in.
You can run a 72V motor on a 52V battery, but only if your controller supports it.
Expect:
It’s fine for short tests or light commuting, but not ideal long-term if you care about efficiency or battery health.
When I finally upgraded to a proper 72V pack, the difference was huge. The bike felt powerful and consistent again — just like it should.
If you’re experimenting, that’s part of the DIY fun — just know what you’re getting into.
If you want a deeper technical explanation of how voltage matching affects power and efficiency, this detailed guide from EM3ev explains it really well.
It’s worth a read if you’re considering mixing voltages or planning your next upgrade.
Just wanted to share something I tried recently that a lot of DIY e-bike builders have probably wondered about:
Can a 72V motor work with a 52V battery?I’ve been putting together my own builds for a few years now, and this time I wanted to see if I could reuse my old 52V battery with a 72V hub motor instead of buying a new pack right away. Here’s what I found.
My Setup
I’m running a 5000W rear hub motor with a 52V 20Ah battery from my previous build.
The controller was originally configured for 72V, but since most programmable controllers have a voltage range, I figured it might still run fine.
Startup went smoothly. The motor spun up without issue, throttle felt okay, and for a moment, I thought I’d found the perfect money-saving workaround.
On the First Ride
On flat ground, it rode fine — just slower than expected.
Torque was noticeably weaker, and on inclines, it became obvious that the motor wasn’t getting enough current.
Performance dropped about 25–30%. My 5000W e-bike suddenly felt like a 3000W version.
Under heavy throttle, voltage sag hit hard. After around 15–20 minutes, the controller began cutting power intermittently — probably low-voltage protection kicking in.
What I Learned
You can run a 72V motor on a 52V battery, but only if your controller supports it.
Expect:
- Lower top speed
- Softer torque
- Quicker heat buildup
It’s fine for short tests or light commuting, but not ideal long-term if you care about efficiency or battery health.
When I finally upgraded to a proper 72V pack, the difference was huge. The bike felt powerful and consistent again — just like it should.
Final Thoughts
If you’re experimenting, that’s part of the DIY fun — just know what you’re getting into.
If you want a deeper technical explanation of how voltage matching affects power and efficiency, this detailed guide from EM3ev explains it really well.
It’s worth a read if you’re considering mixing voltages or planning your next upgrade.
