PCeBiker
No-Hands No-Pedaling No-Credentials
- Region
- Canada
Here you go,..
It's a mid-drive motor but it's the same difference.
You only test between the three phase wires.
Really easy to do.
Your not testing the hal sensors.
When you set your Multimeter to test resistance (Ohms), the meter uses it's internal battery to send the voltage into the test leads.
The meter tests the voltage drop between the test leads.
A dead short (touching the leads together) reads 0 Ohms, and anything more than a dead short shows the resistance.
Motor windings are essentially a dead short, in that a winding is just a long wire wrapped up in a coil, but that wire does have some resistance, so the meter might read ½ an Ohm or so.
Then as the multimeters battery energizes the coil, it creates a magnetic field in the coil that creates more resistance.
That's why you have to wait for the reading to stabilize.
It doesn't matter what the readings actually are between each of the three Fat Phase wires as long as they are all close to the same.
A broken wire will read infinite resistance (almost) or OL (open line) and a shorted wire will read 0 ohms or very close to it.
A coil winding is pretty close to zero though, and even the connection of your meters probe to the Phase wire can have some resistance that can skew your results.
A tester should make all of that information unnecessary to know or understand.
My tester came with a connector plug that just plugs right into your ebike harness but it doesn't fit my waterproof connector plugs.
I could make a connector plug, but I got my motor working, so I'm not jumping into that rabbit hole unless I have to.
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