If I understand you correctly- Your inner leg, leaning in to the corner, should be raised, with no danger of pedal strike, outside leg and foot down. It will happen automatically after a while on bends. You shouldn't try to pedal through tight corners.
Specialized Turbo Vado/Como/Tero/Tero X User Club
- Thread starter Stefan Mikes
- Start date
It's pretty hard to get used to having the inner leg up, I feel like I don't have good balance. I was wondering if it was normal because it's happened to two other people I've lent the bike to, and I find it a bit dangerous.
Strange. Without video to see your pedalling action I'm not sure why this is happening. It's unlikely to be crank length as that's pretty standard. Or else maybe I'm not seeing the problem properly.
Jeremy McCreary
Bought it anyway
- Region
- USA
- City
- Carlsbad, CA
You'll get used to it, and it's worth the effort, as pedal strikes are dangerous.
But good news: If it's more to your liking, putting either pedal dead ahead — i.e., pedals level — is also effective prevention. Falls aside, few will ever lean a bike far enough to get a pedal strike in that position.
It's quite simple: for example, my right leg is straight and the bike is leaning to the right because I'm turning right... and the pedal is rubbing the ground. I shouldn't have my right leg straight at that moment, but sometimes, when riding, in traffic, with obstacles, speed, well, it happens. But I can confirm that I'm not an experienced cyclist.
Ok, so, this problem has a name !
I'm going to train carefully, especially as I often have a child with me.
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
The proper cornering technique is to raise the inner pedal up while taking a turn (and stopping the pedalling). Please make it a habit. All pro cyclist do that.
(I can see it was already answered by @Rás Cnoic).
Also, please brake before taking a turn, never during the cornering!
I do !
It's pretty difficult to do in some situations (hills, roundabouts...!) however.
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
The action that improves the steering at a higher cornering speed is called "counter steering". Please practice it on a quiet mini roundabout (without your kid, of course), Enter the circus
at a higher speed than usual. Move the outer pedal downwards then set your foot firmly down on the pedal (the inner pedal will be up). Now, instead of turning the handlebars towards the turn direction, please delicately push the inner bar-end forward. This will make the bike lean towards the corner. The firmer you push the outer pedal down, the tighter the turn it will be. Although is sounds counter-intuitively, it is the technique used by both motor-bikers as well as advanced cyclists. It is because bikes turn by leaning towards the corner not by turning the handlebars at speed a little bit higher than just crawling Cornering at a higher speed will let you maintain the momentum without pedalling!
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Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
Please remind Riese & Muller in Germany about that. R&M e-bikes are notorious of pedal strikes.
stompandgo
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
Mountain bike racers use the 3-9 (cranks parallel to level ground) a lot when cornering and avoiding obstacles.I do !
It's pretty difficult to do in some situations (hills, roundabouts...!) however.
Hi,The action that improves the steering at a higher cornering speed is called "counter steering". Please practice it on a quiet mini roundabout (without your kid, of course), Enter the circus
I've tried today. It's not that easy to get used to it ; then the rain made my training even more difficult...
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
Perhaps you could try at such a speed you do not need to pedal during the cornering? As Jeremy and Stomp said, the crankarms on the horizontal is the other safe technique. I prefer the inner pedal up as it contributes to making a good turn.
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
I started conforming to the rule 'Whatever belongs to the bike, stays on the bike. Whatever belongs to the human, is carried by the rider'.
Now, each of my two Specialized e-bikes (Vado and Vado SL) has its own:
Regarding the human needs, I either:
I share my Wahoo Roam 2 between both e-bikes (a tad too expensive to own two of them!)
You might correctly say I've overdone it Not really. It happened to me (for several times) either of my e-bikes was unusable (for example, a flat detected at the last moment, or something else). I must be in the position to grab any available e-bike and ride out without moving the equipment from the other one! That's also why my e-bike batteries are always being charged post ride as well as Wahoo and anything electrical, and I pay attention to inflated tyres and well maintained chain
Now, each of my two Specialized e-bikes (Vado and Vado SL) has its own:
- Topeak Mountain Twin Turbo Gauge pump installed on the frame
- A spare SL Range Extender in the water-bottle-cage (Vado SL)
- A saddle bag with these items:
- Two spare inner tubes matching the wheel/tyre size
- Tools and small parts:
- Tyre levers
- A multitool or a hex wrench set
- A chain tool
- A set of nicely wrapped chain quick links
- The tools are stored either in a pouch or a small plastic bag (wrapped in a bubble wrap)
Regarding the human needs, I either:
- Take my Camelbak hydration backpack for longer rides, or
- Carry a small but spacious backpack for shorter rides (the water bottle inside).
I share my Wahoo Roam 2 between both e-bikes (a tad too expensive to own two of them!)
You might correctly say I've overdone it
Not really. It happened to me (for several times) either of my e-bikes was unusable (for example, a flat detected at the last moment, or something else). I must be in the position to grab any available e-bike and ride out without moving the equipment from the other one! That's also why my e-bike batteries are always being charged post ride as well as Wahoo and anything electrical, and I pay attention to inflated tyres and well maintained chain I conform to the rule " The bike is a pack horse." I hate carrying a backpack. The weight is tiring. Let the bike take the load. Items that exhaust you on your back make little difference when carried by the bike. A generous handlebar bag especially in winter, for extra clothes; gloves raincoat etc, food, phone, camera, small items. Great thing about handlebar bags is they don't affect aero as they sit where the bars and riders body disrupt flow, as known by those wise old French randonneurs, you can easily reach for items while riding or stopped and you can see it so no fear it falls off or is left open like a trunk bag. Then saddle bag for tubes and multi tool, levers etc the usual. And if needed small bags on the inside of the bars, those bottle sized bags that can also be used for snacks. When carrying a RE I can still carry two large bottles by using the water bosses under the top tube, thanks Spesh!I started conforming to the rule 'Whatever belongs to the bike, stays on the bike. Whatever belongs to the human, is carried by the rider'.
Now, each of my two Specialized e-bikes (Vado and Vado SL) has its own:
It has happened not once and not twice I was on a relatively short ride and caught a flat. I wouldn't like to do the "walk of shame" again
- Topeak Mountain Twin Turbo Gauge pump installed on the frame
- A spare SL Range Extender in the water-bottle-cage (Vado SL)
- A saddle bag with these items:
- Two spare inner tubes matching the wheel/tyre size
- Tools and small parts:
- Tyre levers
- A multitool or a hex wrench set
- A chain tool
- A set of nicely wrapped chain quick links
- The tools are stored either in a pouch or a small plastic bag (wrapped in a bubble wrap)
Regarding the human needs, I either:
Now, the rear racks (either permanent or removable) only serve the needs of grocery shopping. Or, I use a pannier to carry the spare battery on my big Vado.
- Take my Camelbak hydration backpack for longer rides, or
- Carry a small but spacious backpack for shorter rides (the water bottle inside).
I share my Wahoo Roam 2 between both e-bikes (a tad too expensive to own two of them!)
You might correctly say I've overdone it
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
It really depends. On either of my e-bikes, the head light and the cabling prevent me from installing the handlebar bag. I also believe a loaded handlebar bag might adversely affect steering on singletracks. Moreover, the space between the bottom and top tube on my Vado 6.0 ST is as tight as the only item that could be installed there was a pump (but not a water-bottle-cage).
The Camelback has positively changed my cycling life. It is made the way nothing except a mesh is touching the rider's body: the rider's back is ventilated by air stream as you're riding! No need for water bottles anymore: grabbing a mouthpiece and drinking at will (the bladder seems to have no end with its capacity). Things such as a wallet, keys, a medical kit, snacks and waterproof clothes can be easily stored there. For winter, the bladder can be removed, making even more available space. I keep my smartphone in the back pocket of my jersey so I can reach it with my left hand anytime.
While Vado 6.0 has full lighting, I attach a Lezyne tail-light to the saddle bag.
To each their own. I really appreciated a handlebar bag on a Bosch e-bike I rented in Co. Donegal but it is a no-go for the e-bikes I own
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