Specialized Turbo Vado 5.0 IGH Vs turbo Vado 3 IGH

R

Rollegourmet

New Member
Region
USA
Hello,
I m trying to decide which one to get between the Vado 5 IGH or the Vado 3 IGH.
I would like to get the Vado 5 because more power but having an automatic gear shifting system does bug me.
I wish they come out with a Vado 5 IGH with the manual gear shifting, so should I get the Vado 3 IGH?
Is having an automatic gear shifting is not that a big deal, so get the Vado 5 IGH?
Thank you.
 
I love my 5.0 IGH. Even with the warranty fix I needed. That said, if you commute on road a lot, the Garmin Radar on the 5.0 is nice too. The torque difference will be noticing though, if you do a lot of hilly terrain.

Do you want class 1 or class 3? May be some options that can save you some cash if you don’t want everything the 5.0 has. That said, a lot of the Bosch bikes that are similarly equipped cost quite a bit more.
 
I m looking for a class 3.
I want to get a bike that I will keep for the next 10 years so I don T mind spending money on it.
I try the trek allant 7s, 8s, 9.9 and the 7s was my favorite because on the front fork but it did not have the belt drive.
Now, there is a trek allant 9s available only in Europe with the front fork, the belt drive, the bigger engine, bigger battery and the manual shifting gear but it is not here in the US.
Then I try the gazelle ultimate c380 hmb with the belt drive and the manual gear, it was great bike but to changing the gear, it was painful.
So now, I m thinking maybe to try the specialized Vado and see how it is.
Do you have any suggestions for a class 3 bike with belt drive and manual shifting gear?
Thank you for your reply.
 
The Vado 3.0 will shift identical to the Gazelle so if you hated that, the Vado 3.0 will likely bother you too.

What bugs you about the automatiq? Maybe I can answer or address some of your concerns (or reinforce them).
 
It is very responsive. I commute and exercise with mine. No complaints on the automatiq. I had a defective drivetrain. They swapped my motor, sensors, and wire harnesses just to rule out all at once and test my parts in their lab. Just got it back this week and still testing but everything seems fine now.
 
I have had my Vado 5.0 since mid March. At first I didn’t think it gave me enough power on steep hills. After recalibrating it, it performed much better. Now, after almost 700 miles I find that I am going up hills faster than just after calibration. I would have a very hard time going back to my original Vado 3.0, 2020. I especially like how it gives a boost after a stop, and going up my steep driveway is seamless breeze, I don’t have to be in turbo and down shift from 7 to 3. I live in a hilly area and love this bike. I do like having the screen that shows the gear I am in showing.
 
Joshelley said:
I have had my Vado 5.0 since mid March. At first I didn’t think it gave me enough power on steep hills. After recalibrating it, it performed much better. Now, after almost 700 miles I find that I am going up hills faster than just after calibration. I would have a very hard time going back to my original Vado 3.0, 2020. I especially like how it gives a boost after a stop, and going up my steep driveway is seamless breeze, I don’t have to be in turbo and down shift from 7 to 3. I live in a hilly area and love this bike. I do like having the screen that shows the gear I am in showing.
Click to expand...
Great. Thank you.
 
I just got the Vado 5.0 IHG, I couldn't be happier with the automatic. I started commuting full time and got the trek Allant top of the line and it sucked. Uncomfortable and not a good ride. I tried the Vado with no experience with belt drive or the auto shifting. Man it is awesome, it shifts flawless, no worries about it, belt is silent and all you do is ride, it works flawless. over 100 so far this week no issues and probably the best ebike I have owned and I have owned half a dozen. Its just the complete package. the lights, the tail light ability for Panniers, the Garmin radar is perfect and I wouldn't want to go without it. Had a flat tire thanks to a goat head and the rear tire comes off easy with a 15mm wrench, much easier with the automatic shifting, the rear wheel drops right out, no dealing with cables. Just do it, you won't regret it,
 
I wouldn't be afraid of the 3.0. Riding in the city I rarely go over 20 mph riding sidewalks, bikepaths, and the street. I have the 5.0 versions of the Vado and Como in chain drive but reduced the front gear to a 36t which puts it in Class 1 territory. So I still have the power of the 5.0. Kind of like the new Tero.
 
Marcela said:
I wouldn't be afraid of the 3.0. Riding in the city I rarely go over 20 mph riding sidewalks, bikepaths, and the street. I have the 5.0 versions of the Vado and Como in chain drive but reduced the front gear to a 36t which puts it in Class 1 territory. So I still have the power of the 5.0. Kind of like the new Tero.
Click to expand...
Your reduction of the the front gear was for better climbing capability? Did you go from a 50T all the way down to a 36T? How expensive was the cog and belt? I'm thinking of doing the same, but going from 50T to 55T for less climbing, but more top end speed.
 
eRivetGun said:
Your reduction of the the front gear was for better climbing capability? Did you go from a 50T all the way down to a 36T? How expensive was the cog and belt? I'm thinking of doing the same, but going from 50T to 55T for less climbing, but more top end speed.
Click to expand...
Read chain drive, not igh.

Went from 48t to 36t. Cost was chainring, nothing else.

You can use this: https://www.bikecalc.com/speed_at_cadence

I've noticed my cadence has gone up like 10 rpm. Don't know if that is attributed to going from 48t to 36t. There is more power. Going to a larger chain ring might reduce ones cadence, and of course experienced power might be less.

With the faster speed of course there is more wind resistance, friction, direction of earth rotation, and whatever else goes along with that.
 
Last edited:
Marcela said:
Read chain drive, not igh.

Went from 48t to 36t. Cost was chainring, nothing else.

You can use this: https://www.bikecalc.com/speed_at_cadence

I've noticed my cadence has gone up like 10 rpm. Don't know if that is attributed to going from 48t to 36t. There is more power. Going to a larger chain ring might reduce ones cadence, and of course experienced power might be less.

With the faster speed of course there is more wind resistance, friction, direction of earth rotation, and whatever else goes along with that.
Click to expand...
Thank you for you reply, my bad, I thought all 5.0's were belt for some reason, I guess the chain and belt are both options there. I realize that going up in size in the front (and/or down in size in the rear will increase my top speed and reduce my climbing gear ratio (I use my bike for athletic cardio and power training and welcome/want the harder pedaling that will be required), and I'm also just looking to get a little more top end speed when descending hills on my commute. Right now my gears top out at 21mph with a cadence of 95, and I need more speed. Bumping up the front cog and/or rear cog on my belt setup will almost certainly require a new belt. If anyone else out there has done such a thing, please respond with your results and your costs. Thanks in advance.
 
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