Source for Magura Motor Cutout Switch

6zfshdb

6zfshdb

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
City
Northeast Pennsylvania
Anyone find a source for the motor cutout micro switch imbedded in a Magura brake handle? It's a replaceable part, but I have yet to find one. I can usually clean the buildup of road debris from the mechanism but I have two with bad contacts inside the sealed switch. So far, I've only been able to find the complete lever assembly and the $65 price tag is a big turnoff.

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Amazon.com : Magura MT5e Disc Brake Lever Blade for E-Bike Aluminum : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : Magura MT5e Disc Brake Lever Blade for E-Bike Aluminum : Sports & Outdoors
www.amazon.com

If I have to, I'll convert to the hyd. pressure switches used on newer brake systems:
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www.performancebike.com

Magura eBike Brake Pressure Switch (For Magura Rim and MT Disc Brakes)

The Magura hydraulic brake pressure/motor cut-off switch is specifically designed to control functions such as the on/off features of the lights and... 0_724_344
www.performancebike.com www.performancebike.com

A bit cheaper but a lot more work than just replacing a switch.
 
Gionnirocket said:
Are the Magura mineral oil?
If so I wonder if you can use a Tektro lever... the brake sensors are easily found/replaced
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Yes, Magura uses "Royal Blood" mineral oil.
I'll look into the Tektro, but I doubt the parts are compatible.
Thanks for the tip though.
 
6zfshdb said:
Yes, Magura uses "Royal Blood" mineral oil.
I'll look into the Tektro, but I doubt the parts are compatible.
Thanks for the tip though.
Click to expand...
Yeah I don't know how you can know other than testing as those types of specs are not published. You might have a different line fitting but that's easily changed. More important is the operating pressure/fluid travel amount with a lever squeeze.
That said... How different can it be??
 
Curiosity got me and after doing a little reading consensus is that my suggestion isn't as plausible as I thought....basically for the reasons I stated.
That said I couldn't find any results from anyone that actually tried it. So maybe if I had the hardware lying around I might try it but I wouldn't spend any money to.
You find any source for the sensor itself? Does Magura have any helpful customer service?
 
The switch wasn't the only problem. It turned out to be a much more expensive repair. After I disassembled the brake handle, I found the hydraulic reservoir had a fine crack that was slowly leaking oil. It was the reason I had to keep bleeding the system to restore good braking action. I had to replace the entire handlebar assembly. The replacement part came with a new handle and switch, so problem solved.

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6zfshdb said:
The switch wasn't the only problem. It turned out to be a much more expensive repair. After I disassembled the brake handle, I found the hydraulic reservoir had a fine crack that was slowly leaking oil. It was the reason I had to keep bleeding the system to restore good braking action. I had to replace the entire handlebar assembly. The replacement part came with a new handle and switch, so problem solved.

View attachment 200826
Click to expand...

So much for the touted lighter composite material... and like that amount of aluminum really needs to be eliminated.
Supposedly it has a 5 year warranty... I assume you're past that point?
 
Gionnirocket said:
So much for the touted lighter composite material... and like that amount of aluminum really needs to be eliminated.
Supposedly it has a 5 year warranty... I assume you're past that point?
Click to expand...
Yes, the warranty expired last year.

It's likely my fault anyway. The crack probably happened when I dropped the bike 2 seasons ago. The leak was so slow, I never noticed it because it was in the reservoir, not the high pressure plumbing. It was likely the reason I needed to bleed the brake at the beginning of every season.

You're right though. Aluminum would have taken the shock better than the "new and improved" composite material Magura is using now.
 
You can put a dot of crazy glue on the peal and stick but I don't know of any bike over $3000 that even has brake cutout levers. It is a hold out vestige from the front hub motor days when kids in the snow would apply the rear brake while using the throttle.
 
PedalUma said:
I would use external ones. You peal and stick the pickup and the lever gets a magnet glued on.

View attachment 200908
Click to expand...
Those aren't the peal and stick type... That's the easily sourced Tektro style I had mentioned.

stompandgo said:
And when the pickup tape rots off, you crash and die?
Click to expand...
Actually riding without the brake cut offs isn't as crucial as I had originally assumed. Just riding normally lends itself to the motor stopping when braking. Many mountain bikers disable or just don't install the cutouts from the start.
 
Until the throttle sticks. For PAS bikes, I agree, they are an extra safety and help save the brakes.

If it were my Cannondale, which has Magura brakes, I'd replace the lever instead of hacking something together. Magura brakes are high quality and worth fixing right.
 
You can never underestimate a safety device as they can be a lifesaver for the unexpected or compensate for other hardware failures... sure.
I actually use them to pedal tight spaces that I don't want motor output by gently squeezing the lever but not to the point of engaging the piston to the rotor... and without having to drop PAS to 0 or 1 so I can quickly and easily be on my way afterwards. Like when being chased by the pÓ_lice 🙃
Magura may be quality but I'll keep my all aluminum TRP/Tektro that have no paint left on each lever end from drops and miscalculation and can stop a 75lb bike from +25mph on a dime... Never mind that spare parts are readily available at a reasonable price.
But yeah I agree... In this case the proper Magura part is the way to go.
Your stopping distance may vary. . .
 
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Gionnirocket said:
I actually use them to pedal tight spaces that I don't want motor output by gently squeezing the lever but not to the point of engaging the piston to the rotor...
Click to expand...

I use my switches All The Time.

I have my throttle locked at a set speed to ride no-hands, and I don't want to keep resetting the speed, so when I'm coming to a stop, I'll grab a brake lever and coast to the stop.
When I'm ready for the brakes at the end, I pull the lever further.

Then when I'm ready to go, I just release the brakes and my cruise control brings me back to my preset speed.


I spread the brake pads apart a bit on my rear brake so I've got lots of brake lever movement before the brake piston starts moving.
 

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PCeBiker said:
I use my switches All The Time.

I have my throttle locked at a set speed to ride no-hands, and I don't want to keep resetting the speed, so when I'm coming to a stop, I'll grab a brake lever and coast to the stop.
When I'm ready for the brakes at the end, I pull the lever further.

Then when I'm ready to go, I just release the brakes and my cruise control brings me back to my preset speed.


I spread the brake pads apart a bit on my rear brake so I've got lots of brake lever movement before the brake piston starts moving.
Click to expand...
I do the same thing. It saves having to reset the cruise control every time you slow or stop. The only problem with doing this is, the bike could take off unexpectedly when you take your hands off the brake levers. As a safety measure, I have the cruise control mounted so it can be turned off with my thumb without removing my hand from the brake lever.

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Yes, the brakes are strong enough to stop the bike with the motor on, but it's smoother and less wear on the brakes using the cutouts. I have mine adjusted so the motor will cut out before any braking action occurs. This wouldn't be possible with cutouts that work on hydraulic pressure. I haven't tried the stick on switches to see if this kind of action can be replicated.
 
So we use them similarly... and to say not as intended. To prevent motor output but not necessarily wanting to slow the bike and/or not wanting to adjust PAS/throttle. 👍
But instinctively I stop pedaling which stops the motor in normal braking situations.
The stick on I would assume have some adjustment just in placement... But integrated is cleaner and can be dialed in by design.
 
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