Ripcurrent S - can the shocks be upgraded?

Do they make forks that are for wheels without thru-axle? Is there any disadvantage for me to switch to a wheel with thru-axle?
I just ordered the Bucklos fat fork on Amazon for my RCS. It has a rebound adjustment and is supposed to be an improved version of the KRSEC fork. It got a high rating on the Wolftick channel on YT. I plan on switching over to a sealed head bearing. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08NSWYV91/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

I almost went with this fork which doesn't have a rebound adjustment ; https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32938425625.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.5ec93c00QvaaKJ&mp=1
 
I have the 120mm shock with rebound adjustment. The right side shock has been clicking when the fork is fully compressed. I am not sure if this is a defect or normal. Anyone else have a 120mm travel fork?
 
I have the 120mm shock with rebound adjustment. The right side shock has been clicking when the fork is fully compressed. I am not sure if this is a defect or normal. Anyone else have a 120mm travel fork?
Do you have the Bucklos fork? I hear the company is quite responsive to questions, especially if you ask them publicly on Amazon. There's also a video of some Bucklos owner where he says after a while, the stanchions start to wear, so he lubricated it with fork oil, which fixed it. He doesn't elaborate further. I believe I found the video on YT simply by searching Bucklos. Maybe you could ask the guy to explain.
 
It looks like these are all the same build just different stickers and colors. I hope to get a response soon from the seller on Ebay. After watching a rebuild video on the air shock I think the extra travel comes from the removal a rubber bottom out spacer. This may explain the cause of the clicking at full compression.

 
It looks like these are all the same build just different stickers and colors. I hope to get a response soon from the seller on Ebay. After watching a rebuild video on the air shock I think the extra travel comes from the removal a rubber bottom out spacer. This may explain the cause of the clicking at full compression.

Well probably, however Wolftick tested most of them (unscientifically) and determined the Bucklos worked better than the Lutu, KRsec, Bolany, etc. so maybe there are differences, who knows.

If you disassemble them to remove or replace the rubber spacer, be very careful! Good luck and keep us posted.
 
I just finished installing the Bolany ZTZ shocks. Bolany ZTZ shock stanchions are 34mm vs. the KRsec 32mm. Both are 120mm travel. The Bolany shocks performed very well. Went for a 10 mile trail ride today and no clicking noise!
 
I have the 26" fat tire Ripcurrent S and I was wondering if I could upgrade the shocks like to a rockshox recon 26?

Thanks
So, after swapping out the CRAP Stock Forks (which I only rode twice) on my RipCurrent S for the Bolony's available at the time (winter 2019/20 with north of 7K miles on them now) the 2 limiting factors were the 18 hole 135 x "9mm" Axle/Hub assy (which is an Extremely hard to find Modus Hub/Axle) and the Straight (not tapered) Steer Tube. I could not find a 15mm QR axle Fat Bike Suspension Fork on anything other than a Tapered Steer Tube (which, I hear can be modded to at the expense of a new wheel, spokes and hub assy settup). This severely limits your Front Fork options unless your willing to lace a new hub onto a new wheel. Juiced did use NECO components to secure the forks to the Head Tube.
That said, there are several FF options available and the Chinese manufactures of this limited selection seem to change every few months, so keep checking (online brick and mortar shops, amazon etc) and you only need 3 specialty tools . . . a Star Nut setting tool, a good tubing cutter (the new steer tube will be too long) and a good metric measuring ruler plus a new Star Nut. My Bolany's came with a new lower race so I didn't have to remove the old one. My Star Nut setting tool came with 2 star nuts. ALL of the Fat Bike Front Fork options I considered gave diagrams showing exact lengths, diameters, fork travel, distance between surfaces, etc. I opted for an an additional 5mm travel and stuck with the 32mm stanchions. Don't worry about cutting the Steer Tube to exact length. you can be off by at least 5mm (my tubing cutter "tracked" a bit and I was about 3mm short, so i made up the diff w/ one fewer NECO spacer and/or by "setting" the Star Nut depth. Measure 8 times and cut once ! ;-)
 
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So, after swapping out the CRAP Stock Forks (which I only rode twice) on my RipCurrent S for the Bolony's available at the time (winter 2019/20 with north of 7K miles on them now) the 2 limiting factors were the 18 hole 135 x "9mm" Axle/Hub assy (which is an Extremely hard to find Modus Hub/Axle) and the Straight (not tapered) Steer Tube. I could not find a 15mm QR axle Fat Bike Suspension Fork on anything other than a Tapered Steer Tube (which you cannot convert to). This severely limits your Front Fork options unless your willing to lace a new hub onto a new wheel. Juiced did use NECO components to secure the forks to the Head Tube.
That said, there are several FF options available (online brick and mortar shops, amazon etc) and you only need 3 specialty tools . . . a Star Nut setting tool, a good tubing cutter (the new steer tube will be too long) and a good metric measuring ruler plus a new Star Nut. ALL of the Fat Bike Front Fork options I considered gave diagrams showing exact lengths, diameters, travel, distance between etc. Measure 8 times and cut once ! ;-)
If you install a Cane Creek ZS44/28.6 headset with an EC44/30 Crown race, it will allow you to install a tapered steer tube on your RCS like a RShox Bluto or better. Of course you'll need that new hub too
 
If you install a Cane Creek ZS44/28.6 headset with an EC44/30 Crown race, it will allow you to install a tapered steer tube on your RCS like a RShox Bluto or better. Of course you'll need that new hub too
Well That's good news, the tapered steer tube lower bearings I'd found at the time were too large to fit the head tube on my RCS. But had I settled on ANY decent shocks requiring this mod, ur STILL stuck with lacing up a whole new wheel and hub assy . . . it's only money! AND, the Other side of that coin is Juiced has warned me twice, NOT to take this bike off road . . and they're right, this bike is NOT built for anything but streets and minor bouts with gravel, I wouldn't trust it to handle anything rougher than these Bolany's can deliver. 7K+ on the road, I'm fine with this setup for now. My latest endeavor is the Tannus Armour rabbithole . . . I'm sure I'll be taught More lessons about this Fat Bike.
 
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I have taken my RCS on many trails throughout Florida. No big downhill stuff in Florida. I have rode on many trails with rocks, roots and drops with the ZTZ shocks and they still hold up. I set my shock air pressure to 120psi. People think it's crazy to see a fat tire bike out on black diamond trails but I have pushed it hard and never had any failures. YET!

I am getting ready to install another ZTZ on a RCS Step Thru as the stock RCS fork is getting replaced. Just finished a front hub swap to Novatec 135mm hub on stock wheels. Taped and setup with tubeless tires. Rear tubeless is also coming this month.
 
I didn't go into my own cone rebuild problems. The stock bearings are not well suited for getting wet. I had them rebuilt once then decided to find a better sealed bearing setup. I have one stock RCS front wheel with the Novatec 36h hub and one custom built Sun Ringle Mulefüt 80SL 36 hole rim with same Novatec hub. The wheel rolls so much better with the Novatec. I have tubeless setup on both bikes now. It has been a journey to get to this point but I have enjoyed the challenge. I did have the Bolany MTB Front Fork for awhile but it had a click when fully compressed. I sent it back. Then found the ZTZ with rebound adjustment and have them on both bikes now. On my hardtail RCS I run Maxxis Minion FBF and FBR EXO/TR 26" Fat Bike Tire 26 x 4.0 - EXO/TR while my wife has the RCS Step Thru with the Vee Rubber 26x4.0 Mission Command tires. She is mostly paved road with some gravel. My other ebike is a Luna X-1 FS all carbon fiber. If you decide to try trail riding start with gravel, service roads then progress to single track. It took me almost a year before getting to the harder rides. Most of my weekend rides are now 2 hours long 15-20 miles depending on the trails.
 
I didn't go into my own cone rebuild problems. The stock bearings are not well suited for getting wet. I had them rebuilt once then decided to find a better sealed bearing setup. I have one stock RCS front wheel with the Novatec 36h hub and one custom built Sun Ringle Mulefüt 80SL 36 hole rim with same Novatec hub. The wheel rolls so much better with the Novatec. I have tubeless setup on both bikes now. It has been a journey to get to this point but I have enjoyed the challenge. I did have the Bolany MTB Front Fork for awhile but it had a click when fully compressed. I sent it back. Then found the ZTZ with rebound adjustment and have them on both bikes now. On my hardtail RCS I run Maxxis Minion FBF and FBR EXO/TR 26" Fat Bike Tire 26 x 4.0 - EXO/TR while my wife has the RCS Step Thru with the Vee Rubber 26x4.0 Mission Command tires. She is mostly paved road with some gravel. My other ebike is a Luna X-1 FS all carbon fiber. If you decide to try trail riding start with gravel, service roads then progress to single track. It took me almost a year before getting to the harder rides. Most of my weekend rides are now 2 hours long 15-20 miles depending on the trails.
Hey ZIP, like I'd mentioned before, I got up to and was considering front wheel replacement for my RCS and was studying every YouTube vid on lacing bike wheels I could find. I've been lucky to know a couple of old school wheel tuners and shown a few tricks, so I was unafraid and ready to lace up this Novatec hub I'd purchased . . . . And then, after a month, Juiced emailed me saying they had found a stock replacement hub . . . so I stayed with a stock wheel assy.
During that month wait for a front hub I was looking at tubeless friendly wheels. The intel I'd gathered 2 yrs ago told me the "tubeless" wheel design was not yet standardized among manufactures even though Fat Tubeless Tires were aplenty . . . also, the tubeless pioneers were presenting YT vids on "Hacks" for converting stock Fat Bike wheels . . . . I'd had Zero experience with tubeless repairs, meaning I had no knowledge of reliability and or success rates when compared to tube repairs. I'm talking repairable flats, not tire killing damage. Can Fat Bike Tubeless repairs tires be as reliable and solvent ( no need for additional attention) as patches over a tube?
I'm experimenting with the Tannus inserts Only to reduce rear flat occurrences. Had only one front tire slow leak in 7K pavement miles : ) but probably average one (or more) Rear flats or repairs per 1000 mi (1600 Km) . . . and then the E-Bike rear wheel R&R dance begins . . . I can do it in under half an hr . . . in ideal conditions ; / but it's still not fun : /
The Tannus test has gone on for less than ten outings and, as advertised, feel considerably different over jolts/bumps and turns, do loose tire press slowly (due to foam compression) @ about 1psi per hr of riding and the rolling resistance has increased noticeably . . . Both in feel and at the gauge . . . My fav 24 mile ride now drops my finish voltage by 1v or more or 1 bar on the bar graph display. It was like the difference from when I'd swapped the stock Kenda knobby's for the street savvy Origin8 Supercell's. I burned a Lot less calories and volts after that : ) This Tannus insert was stuffed into a Vee Zig Zag that was less than half worn, so the comparison was reasonably fair and the diff was instantly noticeable. Zig Zag's are fast tires @ their rated 20psi so I usually run at 22psi and love how far this beast of a bike can coast. Not happy about the increased rolling resistance so far but Hey, no flats so far : )
The Origin8's had Tuffy Fat E-Bike liners installed on the rear about a month after the tire first went on . . . so after roughly 6K miles of using Tuffy Liners can say I'm done with them. While they likely did prevent a flat or three, every flat I got had pierced the Tuffy's (obviously : ( Maybe I expect too much but doesn't mean I'm out of options.
I'm still willing to go tubeless, just need to think it through and determine if the pro's outweigh the cons. Any input on your personal "tubeless vs tube'd" experience for Fat Tires would be appreciated, ( I know the true mtn bikers have done the pioneering on this) so pretty much Everybody has more experience with tubeless than me. I like the idea of less is more, potentially easier flat fixes and potential performance increase . . . just haven't had good reason to go down the tubeless rabbit hole yet . . until now : )
bw
 
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I didn't go into my own cone rebuild problems. The stock bearings are not well suited for getting wet. I had them rebuilt once then decided to find a better sealed bearing setup. I have one stock RCS front wheel with the Novatec 36h hub and one custom built Sun Ringle Mulefüt 80SL 36 hole rim with same Novatec hub. The wheel rolls so much better with the Novatec. I have tubeless setup on both bikes now. It has been a journey to get to this point but I have enjoyed the challenge. I did have the Bolany MTB Front Fork for awhile but it had a click when fully compressed. I sent it back. Then found the ZTZ with rebound adjustment and have them on both bikes now. On my hardtail RCS I run Maxxis Minion FBF and FBR EXO/TR 26" Fat Bike Tire 26 x 4.0 - EXO/TR while my wife has the RCS Step Thru with the Vee Rubber 26x4.0 Mission Command tires. She is mostly paved road with some gravel. My other ebike is a Luna X-1 FS all carbon fiber. If you decide to try trail riding start with gravel, service roads then progress to single track. It took me almost a year before getting to the harder rides. Most of my weekend rides are now 2 hours long 15-20 miles depending on the trails.
Ahhhh, DUDE . . . . . you've got me convinced your efforts to improve the RCS's Front Forks gives several advantages and has proven viable thru your pioneering efforts. I, and am sure others appreciate your sharing these time consuming efforts.
My RCS riding season is coming to a close and therefore the bike gets hangered for a "Heavy Check" at some point . . . . got a chain/cassette R&R due along w/ the tires, cables etc . . . and as with my other hobbies whenever preventative maint comes due I usually find something to improve upon . . . . Haven't pulled the trigger yet on what aspect of this bike will get extra attention but this mod of yours is well suited to be done in stages and therefore near the top of the list : ) . . . Your sharing and efforts on this beast of a bike are much appreciated!
 
Ahhhh, DUDE . . . . . you've got me convinced your efforts to improve the RCS's Front Forks gives several advantages and has proven viable thru your pioneering efforts. I, and am sure others appreciate your sharing these time consuming efforts.
My RCS riding season is coming to a close and therefore the bike gets hangered for a "Heavy Check" at some point . . . . got a chain/cassette R&R due along w/ the tires, cables etc . . . and as with my other hobbies whenever preventative maint comes due I usually find something to improve upon . . . . Haven't pulled the trigger yet on what aspect of this bike will get extra attention but this mod of yours is well suited to be done in stages and therefore near the top of the list : ) . . . Your sharing and efforts on this beast of a bike are much appreciated!
Wanted to add a thought on this RCS Front Suspension Fork dilemma juiced handed us. It occurred to me the other day, after thousands of miles on these aftermarket Bolany's, that I've had as least 3 FULL Panic Stops (due to crazy people in vehicles) without issue . . . . the rear tire skidding and about to lift off the pavement type of stops . . . . I hit the front brakes hard as I could . . . considering the RCS is near 100lbs w/ gear plus my 235lb's makes this kinda impressive : / . . . . but not something I want to repeat any more than I have to.
The POS factory Front Forks i rode only twice did make loud clicking noises under normal breaking (along with the flexing), just as you mentioned had happened with your Bolany's. These haven't done that yet even though I suspect they're from the same mold.
I Do clean and lube the stanchions regularly with a microfiber cloth and mineral oil, wiping off the excess & insp the seals . . . . 20+ yrs in aviation QC has trained me to inspect Everything and maintain it. That said, this Tapered Steer Tube adaptation looks better all the time ! Again, TY for sharing.
 
The 203mm rotor will feel more progressive so don't be shy about squeezing the brake lever hard when emergency stopping. Clean the rotors with rubbing alcohol. Remember to bed in the rotors and pads. I spray some water on the pads then rub them together before installing them. I bed the pads by riding to 15 MPH then squeeze just the front to 5mph. Repeat about 5 times and it should be good to go.

Front brake adapter needed to fit the 203mm rotors. Amazon has many to choose from.
Disc Brake Mounting Bracket, Bicycle Brake Adapter for Front V Brake Caliper PM
Mount the adapter to front fork. Then mount caliper to adapter bracket.

The front rotors I use Shimano Deore RT66. With the supply shortages you can really use any 203mm rotor with 6 bolt pattern. Amazon has a bunch of cheap rotors to choose from.
 
The 203mm rotor will feel more progressive so don't be shy about squeezing the brake lever hard when emergency stopping. Clean the rotors with rubbing alcohol. Remember to bed in the rotors and pads. I spray some water on the pads then rub them together before installing them. I bed the pads by riding to 15 MPH then squeeze just the front to 5mph. Repeat about 5 times and it should be good to go.

Front brake adapter needed to fit the 203mm rotors. Amazon has many to choose from.
Disc Brake Mounting Bracket, Bicycle Brake Adapter for Front V Brake Caliper PM
Mount the adapter to front fork. Then mount caliper to adapter bracket.

The front rotors I use Shimano Deore RT66. With the supply shortages you can really use any 203mm rotor with 6 bolt pattern. Amazon has a bunch of cheap rotors to choose from.
Good Stuff ! . . . you've answered a couple other questions I'd forgot to ask : / I suspected that the Rotor's 6 hole bolt pattern may be (somewhat) standard but there's often not alot of shared standards w/ bikes. This would be Hard without satellite's ; )
 
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