Recommended Class 3 ebike (Juiced CCX Purchase)

Just got back from a short recovery ride. I changed the settings to turn off the torque sensor, and yes, this is the answer for me. For whatever reason it is a much more natural amount of assist, especially when I’m going up an incline.

With the torque sensor on and I’m spinning consistently, the assist doesn’t change one bit while cycling from eco to race mode, until I upshift and press harder on the pedal, which doesn’t work for my style of riding.

But with the torque sensor off, when I increase the assist but maintain the same speed and cadence, it makes it easier on the legs. If the incline gets steeper, I can increase the amount of assist and keep my effort and thus HR consistent. When I’m going uphill, this is the way to roll 😆. Really pleased that the bike gives me this type of control. It will help protect my knees and thus more riding.

Stefan, really cool that your computer shows human effort vs assist graphically! I didn’t notice that during my demo ride w Vado. Wish my computer showed that.
 
your computer shows human effort vs assist graphically
In the older display it is not easy to even notice that... I had hoped for the new display, which, as I hear, shows these figures as plain numbers.
I am very glad you've found your way around your bike, planetbike!
 
I cannot believe in their claims about the range. What do they mean by "real world range"?
 
When I read
500W, 1560W (off road mode)
Top Speed: 55km/h (34mph)
then my first thought is "how fast will the battery go dry?" High continuous and peak wattage simply means "a lot of watts will be needed" and 660 Wh is not that much. Then, air resistance makes power demand in third power (cubic) with growing speed. Unless the rider is in aerodynamic forward position like a road cyclist, the air resistance will kill the battery very fast. I remain sceptical with all those advertisements about power e-bikes...
 
Another thought. See this calculator:

Given my own parameters (rider and bike weight, windless conditions, flat terrain) and keeping more complicated parameters at default values, I found out me reaching 42 km/h (which I did on Turbo Vado 5.0) required 395 Watts of power. My Vado can provide 350 W in Turbo mode so I provided 50 W maximum myself. Vado 5.0 can make about 40 km or less in Turbo mode. Just fancy how fast would Hill Eater Galiano run out of battery...
 
To maintain 55 km/h under ideal conditions, the total power input needs to be around 800 watts. Forget the leg power. 800 watts means the battery would be eaten up within one hour, giving you 55 km or 34 miles. I don't even mention possible motor/battery overheat problems.

All the talk about powerful and fast e-bikes reminds me of the old good Derny gasoline powered bicycles where the rider just pretends to be pedalling...

I remain sceptical.
 
FYI the 2 bikes I own can hold 27-29 on flats , both hubs , 1 geared 1dd, BH and Stromer. I am not an athlete either. Stromer is more powerful but the Bh will hold speed once it get there. Stromer does hills better at speed too . I do go through some battery juice ...I have as much in batteries on the Stromer as the cost of The bike almost...worth every penny...need 3rd battery for the Bh....marry Xmas to me! And to every one else
 
ST2s , my old st 2 was just a smidgen slower , just enough for my wife to get ahead of me but only bragging rights if we were racing. st2s was originally hers. ST2 had at least 15000 miles more on it was my excuse :)....weight may be a factor too
 
Both geared and direct drive can hold speed. It is certainly the motor not me
 
The Bh does have more percentage increase of energy used then the Stromer when holding top speed it seems which would follow that DD is more efficient But the Stromer batteries are larger to begin with so not apples to apples. I believe the physics of the larger batteries throw off the comparison.
 
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