Rear shock. Lock out or not?

[DaveMatthews]

My Giant Stance E+2 has a rear shock with no lockout.
Am considering getting an upgrade to a shock with lockout.
What are the users of lockout capable shocks thinking? Worth it? Never use it?
Whatcha got?

 

[rich c]

Just pump up the pressure to the highest recommended pressure if you don't want much movement. Pretty easy to change for little money.

 

[Prairie Dog]

On the rear, I usually have mine fixed on the mid setting and find that helps stiffen the back end enough to allow me to climb in a more efficient manner without feeling like I’m in a bouncy castle. The rear shock has a firm setting if you can call that the lock out position and I rarely find myself where I would require it. I also find that pedal strikes are minimal for me at the mid setting. That being said, I could certainly see riding on firm (lockout) if one encounters plenty of non-technical climbing.

Live valve is a feature that might be in the cards on my next bike. It certainly would eliminate the guess work when it comes to changing compression on the fly.

Current setup on my Trance X E 29er

Front: Fox 36 Float
Rear: Fox Float DPS EVOL

 

[Deleted member 18083]

For me, much the same as Rich and PD: the rear shock of my Homage is pumped 'way high' (12 bars) and the adjustment lever is set the firmest of its three settings.

Reasons: minimise pedal strikes (a design flaw on 2021–22 R&M Homage?), and reduce bounciness.

Again, like PD, I'd like to have on-the-fly adjustment. That way, I'd be able to benefit from the traction/comfort of a properly set rear shock, but would be able to instantly lock it to avoid pedal strikes when forced into ruts when riding rougher sections of our rail trail.

 

[DaveMatthews]

Nice feedback so far gents. Cheers.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Dave: I will say something not really kosher here

Once I was on a demanding mountain trip requiring climbing and downhill rides on rocky trails. I was on my (then) Giant Trance E+ 2 Pro with proper shocks. After a crazy downhill ride I stopped to collect myself. Then I discovered both shocks (front and rear) had been inadvertently locked out. NB: I spent most of the downhill ride standing on the pedals with the seat dropped.

Do I need to say more?

 

[PDoz]

Dave, I ride shock open most of the time - only moving to the "edal" setting for long NON technical uphills , and I rately fully lock my shock out.

BUT - I would absolutely suggest you TRY a better shock. Not specifically for the ability to switch between open and riding modes, but because a better shock will have a more sophisticated dampening mechanism.

DO NOT buy one yet, just get yourself a ride on something with either a well set up fox x2 or a rockshox super deluxe , or even better - one of the crazy expensive extoria shocks. JUST try one, fiddle with the settings to decide what you like, and then go back to your shock and try to get close. If you can't get close enough to be happy, then start saving.

Another consideration - your stance has a less sophisticated linkage mechanism than the trance, so there is less mechanical anti bob built in. Perhaps all the more reason to have the magic lever?

 

[PDoz]

Now, what have I got?

My 2009 trance x2 was my first taste of a fox dps with 3 settings ( open / anti bob / locked) - mind blowing at the time. I think there are 3 other dps equipped bikes in my shed.

Sprogette 1 has scotts custom version of the dps - it doesn't just change compression dampening in the pedal mode , it also reduces travel ( from 150 to 90 mm) . Yet another mind blowing experience, and definitely worth flicking the switch - especially since it's up on the bars. It's like turning the motor up one level if assistance .

Time to brag....last week I replaced the fox dps on my levo sl with a rockshox super deluxe ultimate. Next level mind blowing experience. Now I know what people mean by " buttery smooth" , this thing redefines amazing . It's like the first time I replaced mid 80's jap crap suspension with an ohlins. WAY more than I need or deserve, but there is no going back now. As well as the 3 position lever, it also has low speed compression and rebound adjustment. The internal dampening ctack / shims can be tweaked to provide different high speed compression and rebound characteristics, AND the positive / negative air chambers can be tweaked. But that's not all.... for a few extra $ you can replace the air chamber with the meg neg chamber to adjust the midsttoke suppirt!

 

[DaveMatthews]

Highly entertaining...
The Monarch R on mine is 184x44mm
Can you go outside (larger) than this spec without screwing things up?

 

[PDoz]

Highly entertaining...
The Monarch R on mine is 184x44mm
Can you go outside (larger) than this spec without screwing things up?

you would want a good reason, because it will change geometry. My levo sl has the ability to adjust the rear shock eyelet by an off set bushing - ie by about 2.5 mm - effectively between a 209.75 and 211.25 x 52.5 shock. Yes, the difference in bb height and head angle is noticeable.

The original owner knew exactly what he wanted, he used a 230 shock with a different linkage and enough stroke to extend rear travel from 150 mm to 180 mm . But he also replaced the 150 mm forks with 180 mm . Many thousands of $ in bling , which he removed before selling the bike ( to put on his kenevo sl)

If you decide to go down the path, make sure you check / measure several times before buying. Remove your shock and see where the linkages start arguing with the frame....

 

[ruffruff]

It all depends on your riding. Do you ever bomb down the rough trails? Or you more of flow person? Do you climb a lot?

I don't ride down anything too insane but I never lock out my rear suspension.

Just my opinion, but unless you really feel you need to lock out, it sounds like an expensive rabbit hole.

 

[Prairie Dog]

Dave, are you happy with the level of damping from the Monarch? As mentioned, a rear shock upgrade would likely be an expensive proposition any way you look at it especially if you’re just deliberating on having the lockout feature. As @PDoz suggested, it might be prudent to stick with a similar spec’d version as the one that came tuned with the bike ensuring that it’s frame compatible. Stepping up to the RT3 might be a consideration depending on what your suspension needs are and how large your wallet is. Your LBS would be a good place to start.

 

[DaveMatthews]

If I do decide to change, I'll definitely be looking for the same 184x44 size. Also have heard that the bushings might not be stock.

 

[DaveMatthews]

It all depends on your riding. Do you ever bomb down the rough trails? Or you more of flow person? Do you climb a lot?

I don't ride down anything too insane but I never lock out my rear suspension.

Just my opinion, but unless you really feel you need to lock out, it sounds like an expensive rabbit hole.

More of a flow for sure. But yes, it can be hilly here.

 

[DaveMatthews]

Dave, are you happy with the level of damping from the Monarch? As mentioned, a rear shock upgrade would likely be an expensive proposition any way you look at it especially if you’re just deliberating on having the lockout feature. As @PDoz suggested, it might be prudent to stick with a similar spec’d version as the one that came tuned with the bike ensuring that it’s frame compatible. Stepping up to the RT3 might be a consideration depending on what your suspension needs are and how large your wallet is. Your LBS would be a good place to start.

Happy? Hmmm... I think the R is "OK", but at my weight (235lb) I think I'm bottoming it out more often than I'd like.
I try to keep the psi around 230 - 250 or so.

 

[Catalyzt]

With only 40 nm of torque on a 46 pound bike, 64 year old rider riding as much uphill asphalt as I do to get to the trail?

Hell, yeah, I lock out on the way up!

But my situation is unusual, being kind of old and underpowered in really hilly territory. I'm also a terrible weight weenie... I didn't even carry enough water until my doctor ordered me to do so to avoid stomach cramps.

Per advice in other threads, I leave it unlocked on steep climbs on dirt (and whenever I'm not doing a long climb on asphalt.)

Like Stefan, sometimes I forget. What can be tricky (having no switch at the bars) is to reach down and lock as I'm finishing a long downhill and approaching a steep hill. That's also where the traffic is... so I often wait until I'm ascending, moving a bit more slowly, and hit a straightaway with no cars behind me, because it's harder to hold my line when my face is practically leaning on the bars as I reach the lock lever.

So I find it easiest to lock a little bit late and unlock a bit early-- locking does not change the height of the seat immediately. However unlocking, there's a little drop of the seat when I flip the switch, which can be alarming if you are accelerating rapidly, holding the bars with one hand, and leaning down to get to the lever.

The crazy thing is, even locked, the Moto has a lot more suspension under my butt than the suspension seat post on my Trek kit bike.

 

[PDoz]

Happy? Hmmm... I think the R is "OK", but at my weight (235lb) I think I'm bottoming it out more often than I'd like.
I try to keep the psi around 230 - 250 or so.

Try just adding some internal spacers / tokens to ramp up the air spring progression - it's a really easy thing to play with . You might get lucky and be able to borrow some from the lbs to see if they help

 

[DaveMatthews]

Try just adding some internal spacers / tokens to ramp up the air spring progression - it's a really easy thing to play with . You might get lucky and be able to borrow some from the lbs to see if they help

Aha! Good suggestion, cheers.