Raleigh Sprite IE Fixer Upper

M

mikesova

Member
A couple weeks ago, I came across what I think is a 2016 Raleigh Sprite Ie on facebook marketplace for 250$. I thought it would make a nice project and good ebike for my wife. Apparently the bike came with a wrecked motorhome at a dealership. It had some frame rash on it in spots, but overall it pretty good shape. The guy that had it after the the wreck, had changed the wheels/tires and rear derailleur and let it sit.

94952386_602521947020686_1926432135225278464_o (1) by mikesova, on Flickr

95787730_602520133687534_6393025688718278656_o (1) by mikesova, on Flickr

Fast forward, I ended up buying it for 200$. The chain was junk, so I immediately took that off and cleaned up the bike overall. I noticed that the 7 speed cassette was loosey goosey on the 8 speed hub, so I had to order a spacer for the cassette. I changed out the stem/bars with some I had from my fatbike, and ordered some other fresh parts to spice it up (pedals, grips, crank bolts, bottle cage, etc.)

IMG_1669 by mikesova, on Flickr


While I was working on it, I turned the pedals and heard the motor kick in, so I was pretty confident that it would work fine. am Once the new chain came in, I took it for a cruise . At first it seemed to work fine, you pedal and the motor kicks in and makes you go. I have never used a mid-drive bike before. I am impressed with the power, you get going 20mph pretty quickly.



The issue I'm having is that the crank slipping. When the bike is on a stand (battery and motor off) , and you spin the cranks with your hand, it turns the chain and moves the rear wheel, however, once you get on the bike and try to take off pedaling, the cranks slip and you don't get a solid connection between pedaling and turning the front sprocket. There is some connections, but its not right. My assumption is that something is stripped inside that's not allowing a good "hook up" between the two.

Also, when I turn on the battery, the screen flashes a couple random things that I wonder are codes? I don't have a manual so I'm not sure about them.

IMG_1634 by mikesova, on Flickr

IMG_1635 by mikesova, on Flickr

any info would be awesome. This is kind of a low buck project, so buying a new motor is probably out of the question, BUT, the actual electric motor is working fine, it seems to be the mechanical crank inside that is a problem.
 
Cool find. Raleigh service has been more "miss" than "hit" for me on the three occasions I've contacted them. But it may be worth your while contacting Tranzx and seeing if they have any advice or diagrams they can share.

TranzX-inspring your ride

www.tranzx.com www.tranzx.com

I saw your other post so hopefully that will get some traction. I also noticed some reports of issues with this motor in 2016 that were corrected the following year, but weren't exactly the same as what you're describing.
 
mikesova said:
A couple weeks ago, I came across what I think is a 2016 Raleigh Sprite Ie on facebook marketplace for 250$. I thought it would make a nice project and good ebike for my wife. Apparently the bike came with a wrecked motorhome at a dealership. It had some frame rash on it in spots, but overall it pretty good shape. The guy that had it after the the wreck, had changed the wheels/tires and rear derailleur and let it sit.

94952386_602521947020686_1926432135225278464_o (1) by mikesova, on Flickr

95787730_602520133687534_6393025688718278656_o (1) by mikesova, on Flickr

Fast forward, I ended up buying it for 200$. The chain was junk, so I immediately took that off and cleaned up the bike overall. I noticed that the 7 speed cassette was loosey goosey on the 8 speed hub, so I had to order a spacer for the cassette. I changed out the stem/bars with some I had from my fatbike, and ordered some other fresh parts to spice it up (pedals, grips, crank bolts, bottle cage, etc.)

IMG_1669 by mikesova, on Flickr


While I was working on it, I turned the pedals and heard the motor kick in, so I was pretty confident that it would work fine. am Once the new chain came in, I took it for a cruise . At first it seemed to work fine, you pedal and the motor kicks in and makes you go. I have never used a mid-drive bike before. I am impressed with the power, you get going 20mph pretty quickly.



The issue I'm having is that the crank slipping. When the bike is on a stand (battery and motor off) , and you spin the cranks with your hand, it turns the chain and moves the rear wheel, however, once you get on the bike and try to take off pedaling, the cranks slip and you don't get a solid connection between pedaling and turning the front sprocket. There is some connections, but its not right. My assumption is that something is stripped inside that's not allowing a good "hook up" between the two.

Also, when I turn on the battery, the screen flashes a couple random things that I wonder are codes? I don't have a manual so I'm not sure about them.

IMG_1634 by mikesova, on Flickr

IMG_1635 by mikesova, on Flickr

any info would be awesome. This is kind of a low buck project, so buying a new motor is probably out of the question, BUT, the actual electric motor is working fine, it seems to be the mechanical crank inside that is a problem.
Click to expand...

Congrats on your finding the Raleigh Sprite iE. Are you comfortable opening the motor housing to check for any mechanical issues?

Otherwise, I would recommend searching for a Raleigh dealer that is willing to work on the TranzX mid-drive motor and electronics.

From Court's review on EBR:
  • MOTOR BRAND: Currie Electro-Drive® (TranzX), Model M16GTA
  • MOTOR TYPE: Mid-Mounted Geared Motor
  • MOTOR NOMINAL OUTPUT: 350 watts
  • MOTOR PEAK OUTPUT: 500 watts
  • MOTOR TORQUE: 68 Newton meters
  • BATTERY BRAND: Samsung or LG
  • BATTERY VOLTAGE: 48 volts
  • BATTERY AMP HOURS: 8.8 ah
  • BATTERY WATT HOURS: 422.4 wh
  • BATTERY CHEMISTRY: Lithium-ion
  • CHARGE TIME: 5 hours
  • ESTIMATED MIN RANGE: 20 miles (32 km)
  • ESTIMATED MAX RANGE: 40 miles (64 km)
  • DISPLAY TYPE: Fixed Monochrome Backlit LCD with Adjustable Angle
  • READOUTS: Speed, Odometer, Battery Capacity (5 Bars), Assist Level (0-4), Range Estimation
  • DISPLAY ACCESSORIES: Independent Button Pad on Left
  • DRIVE MODE: Cadence Sensing Pedal Assist (Optional Button Throttle)
  • TOP SPEED: 20 mph (32 kph)
 
Last edited:
mikesova said:
however, once you get on the bike and try to take off pedaling, the cranks slip and you don't get a solid connection between pedaling and turning the front sprocket. There is some connections, but its not right. My assumption is that something is stripped inside that's not allowing a good "hook up" between the two.
Click to expand...

It's normally the clutch that goes out.
Raleigh should be able to get you the parts. It would be best to approach them through a dealer.
 
You can find dealers by zip on the website and call them. I don't think there are too many. One I can recommend is Bloomfield Bike Shop in Bloomfield Ct.

Raleigh Bikes | Raleigh Bikes

Raleigh bikes have been engineering & manufacturing best in class bikes for over 129 years. Make your next bike a Raleigh bike. 100% satisfaction guarantee.
www.raleighusa.com www.raleighusa.com
 
mikesova said:
Any reccomendations for a Raleigh dealer? I doubt I have anybody local to me that stocks the ebikes.
Click to expand...

You can also email Raleigh for support... hope this helps.

Contact Us | Raleigh Bikes | Raleigh USA Bicycles

Raleigh America 6004 South 190th Street, Suite 101 Kent, WA 98032 We’re happy to help answer your questions! Fill out the form below. Recalls Recall information can be found on our Recall page. FAQs Reference our list of Frequently Asked Questions.
community.raleighusa.com community.raleighusa.com
 
I've got the motor out. Not a major feat, just needed the correct tools.

I'm trying to get inside it, to see if there is something obviously broken, but it doesn't seem like the case wants to come apart very easily. I've taken out the fasteners that seem obvious, but I'm not sure what I need to move forward. Any tips?

Untitled by mikesova, on Flickr

Untitled by mikesova, on Flickr

Also, haven't heard anything back from Raleigh, yet.
 
This video provided some help:


I understand why the cases are on so tight, they are silicone glued on. Also discovered the 3rd screw that was hidden under the tranzx decal on the moon shaped cover.

I also found a post by someone who had a similar issue, took motor apart and discovered a broken woodruff key in the clutch.

https://www.reddit.com/r/ebikes/comments/gkizxq
 
Mike,
My hunch was "broken clutch or worn out dog ring".

It's not often you see metal gears missing teeth and in such cases, you will find motor making weird noises.

The simplest solution in your case would be to get a replacement motor from Izip or Raleigh. Until early this year, they were selling Izip and Raleigh bikes with TranzX motor. So, they should have some spare parts.

1590762593040.png
 
Let's back this up a sec. I was rereading what you wrote originally, "The issue I'm having is that the crank slipping. When the bike is on a stand (battery and motor off) , and you spin the cranks with your hand, it turns the chain and moves the rear wheel, however, once you get on the bike and try to take off pedaling, the cranks slip and you don't get a solid connection between pedaling and turning the front sprocket. There is some connections, but its not right. "

Are both of these scenarios with the power off?

It's not clear to me how the chainring is driven, but I assume not directly via the bottom bracket spindle. Therefore I'm wondering if the 3-pawl clutch has too heavy a layer of grease applied, causing either the pawls to be slow to engage, or not seating fully behind the detents.

When rebuilding freehubs, there are "special" semi-fluid greases available, though proper grease can vary by manufacturer. I'd suggest -- just to test this theory -- scraping off the the excess white grease that's on their now, maybe even applying some lightweight lubricating oil to the pawl pivots and springs, and seeing if the problem still exists. If it works, break it all back open and apply a lighter weight freehub grease. In the problem continues, then at least you've eliminated pawl engagement as a cause.
 
speedub.nate said:
Let's back this up a sec. I was rereading what you wrote originally, "The issue I'm having is that the crank slipping. When the bike is on a stand (battery and motor off) , and you spin the cranks with your hand, it turns the chain and moves the rear wheel, however, once you get on the bike and try to take off pedaling, the cranks slip and you don't get a solid connection between pedaling and turning the front sprocket. There is some connections, but its not right. "

Are both of these scenarios with the power off?

It's not clear to me how the chainring is driven, but I assume not directly via the bottom bracket spindle. Therefore I'm wondering if the 3-pawl clutch has too heavy a layer of grease applied, causing either the pawls to be slow to engage, or not seating fully behind the detents.

When rebuilding freehubs, there are "special" semi-fluid greases available, though proper grease can vary by manufacturer. I'd suggest -- just to test this theory -- scraping off the the excess white grease that's on their now, maybe even applying some lightweight lubricating oil to the pawl pivots and springs, and seeing if the problem still exists. If it works, break it all back open and apply a lighter weight freehub grease. In the problem continues, then at least you've eliminated pawl engagement as a cause.
Click to expand...

Yes it slips when the power is off AND on. Obviously when the power is on, the motor will drive the bike, but the cranks still slip if you pedal hard. I'll give what you're saying a shot.
 
Just took it apart, hosed down the clutch pawls and the ring it’s supposed to catch in with WD40 and cleaned the grease out. I put it back together, same problem.

I tried contacting a bike shop reccomended above, no contact back.

hmm.
 
Hmmm is right.

But the problem must lie in that clutch, no? Just based on the condition you're describing? Unless the motor is kicking in too severely, over-running your pedaling cadence, effectively advancing the large sprocket beyond the engagement point the clutch is currently locked into.

Except that wouldn't register as a "slip."

Hmmm...
 
speedub.nate said:
Hmmm is right.

But the problem must lie in that clutch, no? Just based on the condition you're describing? Unless the motor is kicking in too severely, over-running your pedaling cadence, effectively advancing the large sprocket beyond the engagement point the clutch is currently locked into.

Except that wouldn't register as a "slip."

Hmmm...
Click to expand...

Yeah, I assume it has to be a clutch slipping. No sure if it’s the pawls or the ring that they are supposed to catch on.
 
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