Rad City 4 Won't turn on.

[Jeff Mc]

After 250 miles of happy carefree riding my new Rad City 4 failed to turn on. I contacted Rad, and they have been very courteous and willing to help solve the problem. Here are their suggestions and what I have attempted to solve the problems so far:
* checked the connections, starting with the display connection, and working through them all.
*checked the battery and battery fuse-everything is fine
*replaced the wiring harness and controller (free under warranty)
*replaced the display (free under warranty)
None of these attempts have worked. I am waiting for a reply from Rad as to what my next step should be. Does anyone have any idea what the problem could be, or what I should try to do to fix the problem?

 

[GypsyTreker]

Perhaps if Rad is working with you let them guide you through it. It might be better to have their instructions on file. They have been around a long time they will get you up and running.

 

[AHicks]

So the display is completely dead?

You mentioned you checked the battery and fuse. How was this done? Were you checking where the battery lead plugs into the controller down under the crank?

 

[Jeff Mc]

Perhaps if Rad is working with you let them guide you through it. It might be better to have their instructions on file. They have been around a long time they will get you up and running.

Thank you. I am working with Rad. They are responsive and good. They have been helpful, but it's frustrating. Every time they try a new part it's an 8 day turn around waiting for the part to get here, and then it's back to the drawing board when that part doesn't work. I was hoping someone might recognize what is wrong that I could try for a quicker fix.

 

[Jeff Mc]

So the display is completely dead?

You mentioned you checked the battery and fuse. How was this done? Were you checking where the battery lead plugs into the controller down under the crank?

I checked the battery to make sure it had a full charge and that there wasn't any damage to the pins and contacts. I replaced the fuse though there didn't appear to be anything wrong with the original. I have checked all the connections, including the battery lead plugs. It's a mystery to me as to what the problem is.

 

[rich c]

You haven't mentioned any voltage numbers or continuity checks. Does that mean you don't own a multimeter? The only way to troubleshoot electronics is by actually measuring voltage and where it ain't.

 

[Jeff Mc]

You haven't mentioned any voltage numbers or continuity checks. Does that mean you don't own a multimeter? The only way to troubleshoot electronics is by actually measuring voltage and where it ain't.

Thank you for taking the time to advise me on this. I don't own a multimeter. Is that something that would be easy to learn how to do? Do you know approximately how much they cost?

 

[AHicks]

Agree. You need to get some voltage readings at the battery and at the battery to controller connection located below the crank - just a few inches from the controller.

Logic would tell us that with all the parts that have been replaced already, this is about the only area remaining - and you're going to need a voltmeter to proceed.

 

[AHicks]

Voltmeters to do what you need to do can be had for less than 20.00

 

[Jeff Mc]

Voltmeters to do what you need to do can be had for less than 20.00

Thanks AHicks. I will check it out.

 

[AHicks]

Ask at a local discount auto supply, an ACE Hardware, or even Home Depot/Lowes.

You're asking/looking for a "digital voltmeter", and simple is good!