Rad battery went from fine to dead in one bump

bluetick

New Member
Region
USA
I have two rad power bikes and (obviously) two batteries. On a ride last weekend on a bumpy trail, one of the bikes just died. No loose connections so we rode home on human power. The issue is clearly the battery as the second battery happily powers either bike. Further, the battery appears to charge but the battery meter on the bike briefly flickers when activated and then immediately fades. I fully expected to find a blown fuse but no such luck. Any ideas?

Note: I've reached out to Rad but their customer support has been super disappointing on this. The only response I have been able to get is from a robot.
 
The older batteries I’ve seen from them have a problem with the connectors from the battery to the base. That might be your issue. Which battery do you have? Pictures of the base would help.
 
This problem is not localized to any brand of bike.

The problem is always as tomjasz said.

Check for debris in all the male/female connects, fasteners of the mounting plate to the frame.

Your LBS (local bike shop) can definitely help here and they will love your business.

It'll be your choice if you want to do the warranty dance in limbo, a decision that can leave you ebike-less all summer.
 
This problem is not localized to any brand of bike.
The problem is always as tomjasz said.
Check for debris in all the male/female connects, fasteners of the mounting plate to the frame.
The industrial crimp terminals I used on my ugly conversion, never do this. Ideal, panduit, 3M, T&B, TE Connectivity, make a serious reliable crimp terminal in both .250 flag and .157" bullet. Use a tool from klein or ideal. One defective battery came with andersn which looked reliable with screw terminals to the battery & plenty of force on the wiping terminals, but I never found a source to buy a mating connector.
 
I’m glad it’s working. Still annoyed that I sent a request for help a week ago without any human response.
Keep an eye on this and clean it regularly.
Once these start to fail, they typically continue to decline and will eventually need to be replaced.
 
I’m a believer in dielectric grease used in the right amount/situation. Helps keep water/corrosion out too.👍
I agree in some situations.
But I feel that a majority of these failures are due to vibration coupled with the poor designed connection between the battery and mounting plate. In these cases dielectric grease can sometimes make matters worse as you are introducing a non conductive substance that will burn during in high current arcing situations. This is especially true when applied to a worn connection already exhibiting signs of failure. If used it should not be applied to the contacts directly but to the plastic shell surrounding them to keep out contaminates.
 
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I agree in some situations.
But I feel that a majority of these failures are due to vibration coupled with the poor designed connection between the battery and mounting plate. In these cases dielectric grease can sometimes make matters worse as you are introducing a non conductive substance that will burn during in high current arcing situations. This is especially true when applied to a worn connection already exhibiting signs of failure. If used it should not be applied to the contacts directly but to the plastic shell surrounding them to keep out contaminates.
Yeah, ebike batteries (where they are being inserted/removed often) are not the ideal model for dielectric grease. That said, using it early on when the bike is new can help reduce wear and give a more consistant connection. If I could, I’d always choose to charge my batteries in the bike as removing them constantly is just gotta wear those connectors over time.
 
Yeah, ebike batteries (where they are being inserted/removed often) are not the ideal model for dielectric grease. That said, using it early on when the bike is new can help reduce wear and give a more consistant connection. If I could, I’d always choose to charge my batteries in the bike as removing them constantly is just gotta wear those connectors over time.
That's interesting. I never thought about that aspect when charging. I've been removing mine as it's quite a bit cooler in my garage even in summer. So regarding the grease: You just brush it on the contacts of the battery and mount with a toothbrush? Is this what I want?
 
That's interesting. I never thought about that aspect when charging. I've been removing mine as it's quite a bit cooler in my garage even in summer. So regarding the grease: You just brush it on the contacts of the battery and mount with a toothbrush? Is this what I want?
Not brush it on the contacts ... it is not conducive . Just a few drops around the edge where the battery fits to the base to keep the water out and make it slide in easily. I didn't check your amazon link, this is a bike or auto parts store item.
 
Not brush it on the contacts ... it is not conducive . Just a few drops around the edge where the battery fits to the base to keep the water out and make it slide in easily. I didn't check your amazon link, this is a bike or auto parts store item.
OK I thought it was to lube the fittings to slow down the wear when the battery is taken out and replaced. If it's just to keep water out then that's not an issue for me as I never ride in the rain.
 
OK I thought it was to lube the fittings to slow down the wear when the battery is taken out and replaced. If it's just to keep water out then that's not an issue for me as I never ride in the rain.
Also keeps dust and grit out, and allows the battery to seat properly. Not just for water. A tiny tube lasts years and costs under $10.
 
Old school dielectric grease should be given up on in favor of ACF50 or Boeshield. Both offer better protection.
 
OK I thought it was to lube the fittings to slow down the wear when the battery is taken out and replaced. If it's just to keep water out then that's not an issue for me as I never ride in the rain.
Well.... Kinda / sorta.
When applied on the plastic around the connection it will facilitate an easier connect/disconnect and keep the plastic from wearing out which in turn will keep the pins properly aligned.... well at least in theory.
It's main purpose is to seal out contaminates which is never a bad thing.
That said, since I don't ride in weather or remove the battery to charge, I haven't used any.
 
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