Question about experience of using Shimano Steps E6100 motor

[FrancoPoz]

Excuse me again for the inconvenience and my trivial questions. I am looking and reading the manual. I have seen this table. Help me interpret the graph? Thanks

 

[ephemere]

I don't know what is the difference between the dashed lines and the solid lines. Perhaps upper-lower bounds? But it appears that each line is showing how much torque the motor will provide given a certain amount of pedaling force. For example, for the E6100 in Sportive High mode, if the rider is exerting T amount of torque, the motor will output approximately 2T additional torque (hence the 200% shown in the table) until it caps out at 60 Nm. So if the rider exerts 30 Nm of torque or more, the motor is capped out at 60 Nm. It appears that only Sportive High mode uses the full 60 Nm of torque of which the E6100 is capable. Other modes cap out at lower torque levels.

 

[FrancoPoz]

I don't know what is the difference between the dashed lines and the solid lines. Perhaps upper-lower bounds? But it appears that each line is showing how much torque the motor will provide given a certain amount of pedaling force. For example, for the E6100 in Sportive High mode, if the rider is exerting T amount of torque, the motor will output approximately 2T additional torque (hence the 200% shown in the table) until it caps out at 60 Nm. So if the rider exerts 30 Nm of torque or more, the motor is capped out at 60 Nm. It appears that only Sportive High mode uses the full 60 Nm of torque of which the E6100 is capable. Other modes cap out at lower torque levels.

Thank you very much. I interpreted the table in this way too and you confirmed it. I add for ECO I reach 30 Nm of power and I stop them. If I want a higher level of assistance I have to increase the level of assistance to switch from ECO to SPORTING or whatever it's called. Is there the possibility with E-Tube to reposition the levels of assistance Nm of the different types of assistance? I read somewhere that the Steps 6000 series is not possible to do this. I don't know if the E6100 allows it. Thanks. Hi

 

[FlatSix911]

Thank you very much. I interpreted the table in this way too and you confirmed it. I add for ECO I reach 30 Nm of power and I stop them. If I want a higher level of assistance I have to increase the level of assistance to switch from ECO to SPORTING or whatever it's called. Is there the possibility with E-Tube to reposition the levels of assistance Nm of the different types of assistance? I read somewhere that the Steps 6000 series is not possible to do this. I don't know if the E6100 allows it. Thanks. Hi

You are correct.
You can fine-tune the assist levels using the E-Tube app and modify the torque curves a bit before you hit the maximum assist.
All of the current motors, E5000/6100/7000/8000 have the tunning available via the E-Tube app except the original E6000.
The motor will also automatically adjust between natural and powerful assist based on the input factors listed below.

 

[gehu]

Thanks for the Shimano Steps Service Manual! Indeed, it has quite a lot of content that I have not seen elsewhere, or seen scattered about in bits and pieces. A great reference. I am also curious about the STUnlocker and STRide apps.

Hi very old post but I thought I would chime in. First great thread comparing the 6100 to the others. I will note that even though it is more of a treking motor Motobecane thought it might have enough power and put it on a dual suspension bike along side another with a 7000 motor.

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Now, I have no experience on it but with 60nm torque I imagine even with the slow wind up it might be worth testing on some steep technical single track; simply bring a bigger cog.
Now, about StUnlocker, I have used it for a couple of years on an E8000 moto and will be putting it on my E7000 motor when it comes in.
Why the downgrade for me to 7000 ? Not really a downgrade it is just that the E8000 was more than enough power for me on my Rocky Mountain Colorado technical trails so I got another dual suspension bike at a less expensive price point the Moto Hal eboost elite.

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/full-suspension-mountain-bikes/ebikes-hal-eboost-elite-electric-mountain-bikes.htm.

The great thing for me about StUnlocker is it gives me great on the fly tuning of my assist levels. Since Shim was dumb enough to only provide 3 levels of assist with (high/med/low or 33.3,66.6,99.9% levels in them), It really makes a difference to me because I really want the bike to conform to the level I want to train and how my legs feel at any given time and not the other way around (which would be less granularity than I would like.) Since you can config eco/trail/boost to 0-100+% with StUnlocker on the fly bluetooth; that fine tuning is absolutely and easy sale for me.
Sidebar, I also have a Bosch motor as well as a wonderful Giant (Yamaha), sync drive motor (70nm). Bosch well....not a fan for allot of technical reasons including idiot Gestapo's infamous 504errors. Giant big fan because you get 5 levels of assistance (with low,medium,high/33.3,66.6,99.9%) on the fly with their easy bluetooth app. While that is not as flexible as the StUnlocker; the ability of 5 levels of tunability is what sold me when I took a test hill ride to make sure the lowest setting on level 1 was an effort of about a ~28lb bike. . Btw, guys, try some really heavy weight training sometime...; turn off the motor on a big hill. No more penny filled water bottles for me.

This is kinda technical and my English is not that great but maybe it will help someone.

 

[Catalyzt]

Great information... thanks for sharing.
I have found these range estimates to be very close to reality when I am cycling on and off-road.

View attachment 71784View attachment 71783

As long as we've revived the thread, thanks so much for this! These estimates seem to be for a 510 Wh battery, or that's what I'm guessing. And it's worth noting that BD/Motobecane even puts the 40 Nm E5000 on an MTB! I own the ULTRA eAdventure which has the E5000, and fortunately, weights only 49 pounds in a 48cm frame.

I find that the E5000 has no problem with 15% grades on pavement, and is fine on over 10% on gravel, though I plan to test it today for the first time on 15% dirt with some rocks.

The E5000 is still a bit underpowered, which is fine because I like a good workout-- I was wondering if the 6100 would have a slight range penalty in comparison, and apparently it does. I'm really glad I did not get the E8000 and E7000 because where I live they would be nearly useless.

My real world experience is that the E5000 has a range of 40 miles including 4,000 feet of vertical with a 418 Wh battery. It may well get 93 miles on flat terrain, but where I live, I will never find out unless I drove down to Sunset Blvd. and just drove back and forth all day.

 

[FrancoPoz]

After almost 3500km and around 12,000m of elevation gain with a BMC AMP Alpenchallenge I got an idea of the level of assistance. At least as regards the Steps 6100 my eRoad is equipped with. I state that my battery is 630 Kw that is the new SH battery. In the plains the values that SH gives seem quite exact. If you pedal near the detachment of the engine assistance - in Europe there is a limit of 25 km / h - the autonomy is at least 200 km more or less flat and common with minor climbs. Comuqnue you have to pedal and stay between 60 and 80 rides per minute because between these values the engine - at least the 6100 set in treeking mode - gives its best, operating in a constant and continuous way without jerking. The mode to use is the ECO the most appropriate. If you tackle climbs with various gradients between 5% and even 20% and with a length between 2 km and 7 km you can reach significant differences in height and significant km. I managed to do laps of 170 km and about 2700 m in altitude, alternating stretches in the plains and even challenging climbs with the values and characteristics written above. Always in ECO mode and always with a pedaling value between 60 and 80 pedaling per minute. Respectable values that can only be achieved if you have a good degree of physical preparation because tackling a 10% climb at 75 minute rides is not something that can be improvised even if you have an eRoad. The engine gives an important and significant help ... indispensable but also the cyclist who uses this eRoad must pedal with a belt of action. I have not done any tests with climbs on the Dolomite passes, that is, climbs over 10 km long because here the climate is still too cold and the descent becomes too cold to deal with even if you are dressed well. Then there is still a lot of snow at high altitude ... at least in my part and it is not worth taking risks even if it is fascinating to make a climb with snow walls on both sides until you go up. The eRoad fully satisfies me how I use it because it allows me to do things that I couldn't do with muscle. I am the owner of a Pinarello F10 purchased directly from the former Sky team and which belonged to the London 2012 Olympic champion Peter Kannaugh. When I use it, I feel that my training level has significantly improved using the eRoad. I have a greater agility in pedaling and this allows me to push particularly hard ratios in the plains almost like a PRO like the 53 x10 without suffering too much in the effort especially in the knees. Then the heart is much lower in the effort and therefore the recovery after a commitment takes place at desisamente much much lower and this is an extremely positive aspect for health. The eRoad is not a bike to "stay ahead of the pack" but a bike that makes you significantly improve the cycling qualities you don't have. For me it was the climb that I was tackling too slowly with my F10. Now I have to wait for my teammates and pull the brake ...... but it's not a question of racing or getting to the top first, it's the mental tranquility that a bike of this type can give you.

 

[Catalyzt]

After almost 3500km and around 12,000m of elevation gain with a BMC AMP Alpenchallenge I got an idea of the level of assistance. At least as regards the Steps 6100 my eRoad is equipped with. I state that my battery is 630 Kw that is the new SH battery. In the plains the values that SH gives seem quite exact. If you pedal near the detachment of the engine assistance - in Europe there is a limit of 25 km / h - the autonomy is at least 200 km more or less flat and common with minor climbs. Comuqnue you have to pedal and stay between 60 and 80 rides per minute because between these values the engine - at least the 6100 set in treeking mode - gives its best, operating in a constant and continuous way without jerking. The mode to use is the ECO the most appropriate. If you tackle climbs with various gradients between 5% and even 20% and with a length between 2 km and 7 km you can reach significant differences in height and significant km. I managed to do laps of 170 km and about 2700 m in altitude, alternating stretches in the plains and even challenging climbs with the values and characteristics written above. Always in ECO mode and always with a pedaling value between 60 and 80 pedaling per minute. Respectable values that can only be achieved if you have a good degree of physical preparation because tackling a 10% climb at 75 minute rides is not something that can be improvised even if you have an eRoad. The engine gives an important and significant help ... indispensable but also the cyclist who uses this eRoad must pedal with a belt of action. I have not done any tests with climbs on the Dolomite passes, that is, climbs over 10 km long because here the climate is still too cold and the descent becomes too cold to deal with even if you are dressed well. Then there is still a lot of snow at high altitude ... at least in my part and it is not worth taking risks even if it is fascinating to make a climb with snow walls on both sides until you go up. The eRoad fully satisfies me how I use it because it allows me to do things that I couldn't do with muscle. I am the owner of a Pinarello F10 purchased directly from the former Sky team and which belonged to the London 2012 Olympic champion Peter Kannaugh. When I use it, I feel that my training level has significantly improved using the eRoad. I have a greater agility in pedaling and this allows me to push particularly hard ratios in the plains almost like a PRO like the 53 x10 without suffering too much in the effort especially in the knees. Then the heart is much lower in the effort and therefore the recovery after a commitment takes place at desisamente much much lower and this is an extremely positive aspect for health. The eRoad is not a bike to "stay ahead of the pack" but a bike that makes you significantly improve the cycling qualities you don't have. For me it was the climb that I was tackling too slowly with my F10. Now I have to wait for my teammates and pull the brake ...... but it's not a question of racing or getting to the top first, it's the mental tranquility that a bike of this type can give you.

This is very helpful even though I am riding a very different bike and am not at your level of training. The Dolomite pass?! Yow! Good call to be safe out there until the weather is warmer!

I believe you are correct that there is an optimal pedaling cadence in ECO with a low-powered Shimano Steps motor which will deliver the best range. I cannot achieve this as often because I am not as fit and my bike is heavier, though when I am warmed up, if I can get to 60 RPM on some of the hills that are not too extreme, the range on my Motobecane increases dramatically. I did 21 miles yesterday with 1,650 feet of vertical using only 20-25% of my battery-- and I also noticed less jerking. I also got lost in a bad neighborhood on my way home, which motivated me to maintain a high cadence in ECO for the flat terrain!) What's more, I noticed a profound difference in how I felt after the ride-- very fit, very alert, very relaxed, very positive mood, and the feeling has lasted into today. Something about this consistent level of effort must be very good for training.

The E5000 performed well on the 15%+ dirt hill where I tested it, though I couldn't quite make it to the top because the rocks in the trail were too big and the trail was too narrow. The problem was the skill of the rider, not the motor. It was a good workout, but not too much-- with the motor, I was strong enough and I had enough traction, but my balance is not yet good enough to maneuver around obstacles. I think 40 Nm is no problem for climbing on steep dirt, even on a 49 pound bike.