Only 20 miles max range on new E mountain bike

That's a good price for the 500 and definitely your best option. If you are doing that many off-pavement miles, you will be glad you have full suspension. How can you go from Linville to Banner Elk and stay off the pavement the whole way ? The only way I know is Camp LutherRock...
 
Last edited:
These late generation mid drives are already optimized for efficiency, so whatever mid drive ebike you use, your range is a function of how aggressive you are in extracting juice from your battery. The more you do your own pedal effort and less from the motor, the longer range you'll get.

You may not notice it but if there is another non electric mountain biker with you, you would have left him in the dust already. If you would slow down a bit, switch to eco, use more of your legs, and enjoy the scenery, maybe you'll get 40 miles. However, once you get used to the speed, it becomes addicting.

Twenty miles is not bad for a 400 wh battery since 20 wh/mile is what most high speed hub drives consume anyway.

Even if you run out of battery, you can still pedal home.


Or you can carry a spare like I do.

t4-jpg.16385
That's a good price for the 500 and definitely your best option. If you are doing that many off-pavement miles, you will be glad you have full suspension. How can you go from Linville to Banner Elk and stay off the pavement the whole way ? The only way I know is Camp LutherRock...
That's a good price for the 500 and definitely your best option. If you are doing that many off-pavement miles, you will be glad you have full suspension. How can you go from Linville to Banner Elk and stay off the pavement the whole way ? The only way I know is Camp LutherRock...
That's a good price for the 500 and definitely your best option. If you are doing that many off-pavement miles, you will be glad you have full suspension. How can you go from Linville to Banner Elk and stay off the pavement the whole way ? The only way I know is Camp LutherRock...
I didn't know I could cross through Camp Luther Road (sugar Mountain #1) If there is a way please let me know. I go through Hickory Nut Gap Rd. Very nice, I cross two cars but you are right, it is a paved road to Banner Elk. I wanted to to go to Lowes and buy some things, so an excuse to leave the house, go somewhere specific, and ride my bike. it was 30 miles, I mostly use normal going up and no power the rest. It is a bit off road as when I get to Banner Elk all that segment of 184 I moved away from the cars so I ride along the gravel or a few feet away of the pavement.
 
There is a way, but you need permission (or forgiveness) from two entities. It's a little dicey.

If you have time one day, you can show me the route, it would be great for me as Banner Elk is a destination for me that I go often for food, coffee etc etc
 
Thanks for the idea , today the dealer said the cost would be $400 for the 500w battery, I think I will go that route instead of changing the bike for the dirt e. I will stay with my full e3, and put the new battery. Not sure how you did but I was told that there are some plates that have to be changed for the larger battery to look smooth. It is only an esthetics issue as I can use both batteries but they are different wide size.
I plan to buy a rack and carry the second battery so I can go on large trips, and even if I don’t use it it gives me piece of mind and I don’t have to be calling my wife to pick me up. Where I spent the summers is 4000 feet high and I go down as much as 2500 feet to the nicer back roads, so coming back is the challenge. I have manage to go for 30 mile rides now and getting back home with enough battery. Of course pedaling more, using eco in mild uphill and normal in steeper one, and only use sport when it gets two tough up hill for the last 10 minutes.

When you get the 500 battery, could I trouble you to weigh and measure both side to side? ( or at least photograph both?) . I'm wondering about the pro / cons of buying a 400/500 second battery to add range to the 500 I currently have - at the moment I'm just playing around local mtb parks, but I'm considering heading out into the extensive collection of motorbike riding trails we have locally ( hundreds of km or mountain trails), ideally as overnight camping trips
 
When you get the 500 battery, could I trouble you to weigh and measure both side to side? ( or at least photograph both?) . I'm wondering about the pro / cons of buying a 400/500 second battery to add range to the 500 I currently have - at the moment I'm just playing around local mtb parks, but I'm considering heading out into the extensive collection of motorbike riding trails we have locally ( hundreds of km or mountain trails), ideally as overnight camping trips
I will take pictures and measure both, not sure when I’ll get it, it might be a week. If the 500 meets my needs of 30miles or longer maybe I sell you the 400 cheap
 
I will take pictures and measure both, not sure when I’ll get it, it might be a week. If the 500 meets my needs of 30miles or longer maybe I sell you the 400 cheap

Thanks for the offer, but I'm in australia - even if you could overcome the logistics of posting a lithium battery, the postage would cost more than the battery is worth! ( which is really annoying...it costs $800 for a battery here)
 
Thanks for the offer, but I'm in australia - even if you could overcome the logistics of posting a lithium battery, the postage would cost more than the battery is worth! ( which is really annoying...it costs $800 for a battery here)

Australia? I hope the score improves against Denmark right now.
I will take the picture of the 500 next to the 400 when I get it I will send the the picture of the 400 in the meantime
 
Thanks for the photos, it'll be interesting to see the two side by side. For what it's worth, this is mine

I've tried to give you an idea of what the bottom cosmetic plate looks like - it seems to line up with the left shock link ( yours looks to be more central?)

BTW, I notice you have the blue shock adjuster on the full open setting ( I think - we have different shocks) - try setting it either central or to the right and see if this helps with range ( Sorry, I don't mean to harp on about this)
 

Attachments

  • 67410C76-53C7-4F54-9C19-5796E45A8701.jpeg
    67410C76-53C7-4F54-9C19-5796E45A8701.jpeg
    1,018.3 KB · Views: 495
  • 70AD5523-52EF-4821-BEFC-ABA798FC7B5C.jpeg
    70AD5523-52EF-4821-BEFC-ABA798FC7B5C.jpeg
    2 MB · Views: 479
  • 8080B2EC-F9D1-4C19-A211-2630C616FE5E.jpeg
    8080B2EC-F9D1-4C19-A211-2630C616FE5E.jpeg
    1.8 MB · Views: 453
Windward...looks like I may have been given the wrong information that the batteries were interchangeable...It has come in and I will have it on Monday and see if it will work...judging by the pictures I see here it will be a problem.
 
If it's any help, these are the top / bottom of the 500 battery
 

Attachments

  • D7351648-98CB-4906-9866-21B6B0882F52.jpeg
    D7351648-98CB-4906-9866-21B6B0882F52.jpeg
    1.2 MB · Views: 473
  • 0C848706-9854-42F1-ADA6-EE5ADD41F6C0.jpeg
    0C848706-9854-42F1-ADA6-EE5ADD41F6C0.jpeg
    1.2 MB · Views: 471
Now I am more hopeful as they look very similar... my friend is bringing the battery up tomorrow and I will know for sure and let you know
 
Pdoz ...do you know what size dropper post you have... And can you move the collar of your post within an inch or 2 of the seat post clamp without bottoming out the post?
 
Pdoz ...do you know what size dropper post you have... And can you move the collar of your post within an inch or 2 of the seat post clamp without bottoming out the post?
I was told by the dealer that they are interchangeable , the only adjustment was esthetic with a plate.
 
Pdoz ...do you know what size dropper post you have... And can you move the collar of your post within an inch or 2 of the seat post clamp without bottoming out the post?

The stock dropper post is 31 mm outside diameter and relatively short -only 125 mm travel , I think the maestro mounting point on the frame limits how far down it can go - fully retracted and the post as low as it can go the seat rails are 2.8 inches above the frame ( measured at the back)

The giant post is pretty low spec , there's a subtle wobble when fully extended and it seems to need more frequent cleaning of the internals than the trans x I have on my norco ( ie water / grit gets past the seals easier). You'd probably be better off buying something from chainreaction rather than paying full retail for a giant rebadged post. ( this looks VERY similar to me http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/au/en/brand-x-ascend-dropper-seatpost/rp-prod149024 )

This is my 11 yo riding the bike with the post fully retracted & the bike all shinny and new
 

Attachments

  • CCD53B06-FEE7-4E5E-BA02-077CBACA06C1.jpeg
    CCD53B06-FEE7-4E5E-BA02-077CBACA06C1.jpeg
    1.4 MB · Views: 887
  • 0AD867FE-F621-4E86-88B0-1E5011614FBC.jpeg
    0AD867FE-F621-4E86-88B0-1E5011614FBC.jpeg
    387.1 KB · Views: 805
Last edited:
I was told by the dealer that they are interchangeable , the only adjustment was esthetic with a plate.

Find a different dealer!

Apart from the obvious differences in post diameter and travel, a better post will be less prone to sticking, smoother and quicker to use, and need less sevicing. A dealer that works on mountain bikes that are used as intended will have serviced / replaced enough to give you meaningfull advice ( and most likely have cheaper second hand posts out the back of the shop that didn't match the egos of their clients....)
 
This proves the point that mid drives just not are as 'efficient' (i.e. lots of distance) as so many want to claim. To be fair, yes they are 'efficient' for getting the most out of a particular size battery and motor sized at a certain wattage, but don't confuse that with getting lots of 'distance' when you have a lot of weight, a non horizontal (i.e. no grade ride), and a rider who probably at the age of 60 may not have the physical prowess or lung capacity he/she once had at a younger age. With those kinds of climbs, and the terrain you are on, you really need to have a 48 volt system, and probably at least a 14 AH battery at 48 volts, to get the distance you desire. Most mid drives are rated at 250 watts nominal, sometimes as high as 350 watts, but they are attempting to do 'magic' at 36 volts in terms of power transferred. Making something as 'efficient' as a "Prius" for example, ain't gonna do very well if its pulling a 1000 lb trailer. Granted the rider isn't that heavy, but its an analogy, to illustrate you can only do so much with 250 watts and 36 volts. It ain't a lot of 'power'. For example, when you are on mostly flat and smooth terrain, these 'magic' bikes use both internal gearing, and lots of 'ratios' to get as much power to the wheel as possible. But at such low voltages, and with 250 watts, you just are not going to be able to go very far, even if you have a 17 ah battery, when you have any kind of grade. Your wattage draw, and power, increases exponentially as a function of the grade you are on, (and also with wind resistance) and if your motor is only designed for 250 watts, and 36 volts, there is going to be a definitive limit on what will be allowed by the controller and electronics to pass through the windings. 200 lbs is a lot of weight to pull up ANY grade, and while a 250 watt mid drive, geared appropriately will do better than a 250 watt hub drive, with your application, and probably your physical effort, the situation is putting a lot of the requirement on the motor. For example, I know a gal who is a regular bike rider, in awesome shape, and she can go 60 miles on the same battery and motor, that most people only get 35 miles. She says she feels like she is barely 'peddling' and she feels the motor is doing a lot, but its her own strength she is not realizing how much is contributing to the ride. She's 'generating' a lot more watts than an average or out of shape rider due to her leg strength, and being in shape, and great lung capacity.

For your situation, quite simply, I'd get away from any mid drive motor, go with an ebike that has a 48 volt system, and at least 500 watts, and a battery that has at least 14 AH at the 48 volts. (which by the way, has more energy storage than a battery that is 14 AH at only 36 volts. Amp rating x Volts gives you total watt hours.). I'd also consider an e-bike that has more gears than the standard mid drive can provide, since most like Bosch or Brose, have only one front sprocket (chain ring) and usually only up to 11 speeds in the rear depending on the bike. (though Yamaha is coming out with their own ebike models this month, that does have two front chain rings, allowing for more gears, more ratios, better leverage, and better ability to extend distance for a given wattage and battery size. Its still 36 volts though which is a disappointment in my opinion.)

As background - I'm not just throwing this stuff out there to start any arguments amongst the forum - I'm a degreed M.E. , and 34+ years in the energy technology, and power space, having worked with motors, batteries, and so on, and unfortunately I've witnessed is a lot of mis-understanding in this ebike space about how power transfer works, and what motors can actually do, what watts actually means, torque means, etc etc. Watts and Voltage can't be cheated folks, and anyone who claims they can produce x amount of torque, and if you believe that will result in the 'same level' of power available to be applied to the road on a 36 volt vs a 48 Volt system, (even if they have the same 'torque rating) then you are either needing some fundamental schooling in the world of physics, or you are being lulled into believing some mis-guided manufacturer hype about what their motors can do. As Tim (the tool man) Taylor used to grunt = WE NEED MORE POWER. Thats going to apply when you have hills and any grade. Its that simple. That means more watts AND more volts folks, and that's what you'll need for stated your application (ride and grade) and your age, physical shape, as well as a larger battery.

Unfortunately there the math of this, and the physics don't lie. Just finding a larger capacity (AmpHour) battery alone, and staying at 36 volts, isn't going to help you as much as one would think. By the way, a 48 Volt system will also operate 'more efficiently' than 36 volts, and also allow the motor to stay in the best portion of its own power curve, assuming the OEM has applied it properly with the right bike and gearing system.


P.S. Some of these 130 lb (when wet with a parka on) reviewers need to carry a 70 lb sack of cement on their rides, and then tell us all 'how much power' they feel out of these 250 watt mid-drives that they say have so much 'torque'. Its always good for a chuckle or two listening to the discussions and 'comparisons'. On these mid drives, with a small chain ring up front, its easy to claim a higher torque rating, but in the whole scheme of things, its a irrelevent value by itself unless you are comparing apples to apples, and comparing same motor power levels (watts), same set of voltages, and same size controllers that manage the amps, same size chain ring and gearing, what cadence you are comparing, etc. etc. (in otherwords a 50 nm 'torque' rating at a rear hub with a 500 watt motor running at 48 volts, is NOT the same as 50 nm 'torque rating' at the crank with a small chain ring and only a 250 watt, 36 volt motor. So in the end, when choosing an ebike, its wise to simply not use any torque rating as a comparison measure. Its European ebike marketing 'hoo haa' folks. ) Personally, if at all possible, I'd rent an ebike with a higher wattage motor, and higher voltage motor, and try it out on your ride, to see if it will do what you desire, before spending any more time guessing at what ebike you might want or need. Best wishes !
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Back