Lectric XP PAS 1 through 3 no difference

[tx4md]

Hello all, I've had my XP for just a month and only been able to put about 20 miles on it. It worked without flaws out of the box but suddenly now accelerates rapidly up to 13+mph in PAS 1 as soon as the pedals are activated. I've gone back and forth with Lectric a couple of times regarding settings and the controller and they are now sending me a new Pedal Assist sensor and a crank puller to remove the pedal crank and replace the sensor. While Lectric's response times have been good, I'm not to happy about having to take the bike apart myself to correct it. Has anybody else had this issue and done the component R&R themselves? Let me how it goes if you have.

Thanks

 

[ki11a]

This was kind of to be expected if you ordered from a direct to consumer type of ebike dealer. I dont know what you think was going to happen, Lectric asking you to ship the whole bike back for them to ship you another? Then you'd be unhappy because you'd be left without a bike. Seems like there is no meeting in the middle here.

Maybe if you were a completely newbie and did not know a screwdriver from a wrench and needed a tutorial and they dont have that up, Id understand.

 

[tx4md]

Thanks for replying. I wasn't really looking for understanding as much as to see if anyone else had experienced the same issue and how the repair went. I'm sure I can handle to procedure.
Cheers

 

[Johny Rocket]

Mmmm. Personally, I think a problem is in the controllers digital electronics. Since the cadence sensor is sensing when you peddle it seems to me that it's doing the job it's supposed to do. The real problem is the controller is giving the motor the same amps regardless of the pas setting. On my XP, PAS 1= 8-10mph, PAS 2=10-13mph, PAS 3=13-16mph, PAS 4=16-20mph, and PAS 5 only works if you change the setting for class 3 operation. The controller takes the user's PAS input and converts it to the proper motor output and tells the display what to show on screen. My tech background is in office equipment for electronics & electro mechanical devices, a little more complicated compared to e-bikes

 

[okievision]

This was kind of to be expected if you ordered from a direct to consumer type of ebike dealer. I dont know what you think was going to happen, Lectric asking you to ship the whole bike back for them to ship you another? Then you'd be unhappy because you'd be left without a bike. Seems like there is no meeting in the middle here.

Maybe if you were a completely newbie and did not know a screwdriver from a wrench and needed a tutorial and they dont have that up, Id understand.

LOL, exactly what the OP was asking for...too funny. Thanks Mom

 

[tx4md]

Mmmm. Personally, I think a problem is in the controllers digital electronics. Since the cadence sensor is sensing when you peddle it seems to me that it's doing the job it's supposed to do. The real problem is the controller is giving the motor the same amps regardless of the pas setting. On my XP, PAS 1= 8-10mph, PAS 2=10-13mph, PAS 3=13-16mph, PAS 4=16-20mph, and PAS 5 only works if you change the setting for class 3 operation. The controller takes the user's PAS input and converts it to the proper motor output and tells the display what to show on screen. My tech background is in office equipment for electronics & electro mechanical devices, a little more complicated compared to e-bikes

Seems you are on right on J Rocket. I replaced the pedal sensor and it made no difference so Lectric is sending out a new controller.

 

[Johny Rocket]

Seems you are on right on J Rocket. I replaced the pedal sensor and it made no difference so Lectric is sending out a new controller.

Thanks for letting me know. The only other suspect would be the display unit if it happens to house the main microprocessor but I believe it comes with the controller anyway. I would think that they took a second to look at the electronic schematics this time around but I know they are going through huge growing pains so tech support might have limited training. I'm confident they will continue support until it's resolved. Owners Levi & Robby have an excellent reputation for doing the right thing.

 

[tx4md]

Yes they have been very responsive. I'll let you know how it goes with the replacement controller.

 

[Driftway]

Wondering how this turned out. I have a new Lectric xp step thru and PAS 1 is just too much, too fast. I also have an FLX mid drive ebike and a new Radmini step thru who both get it right - smooth slow gentle pas level 1, for slow cycling. Lectric failed at it which is too bad. You can't say you get what you pay for, since this is really just a design and engineering error on Lectric's part.

 

[Johny Rocket]

---

Wondering how this turned out. I have a new Lectric xp step thru and PAS 1 is just too much, too fast. I also have an FLX mid drive ebike and a new Radmini step thru who both get it right - smooth slow gentle pas level 1, for slow cycling. Lectric failed at it which is too bad. You can't say you get what you pay for, since this is really just a design and engineering error on Lectric's part.

The above issue was resolved

Wondering how this turned out. I have a new Lectric xp step thru and PAS 1 is just too much, too fast. I also have an FLX mid drive ebike and a new Radmini step thru who both get it right - smooth slow gentle pas level 1, for slow cycling. Lectric failed at it which is too bad. You can't say you get what you pay for, since this is really just a design and engineering error on Lectric's part.

tx4md's cadence sensor failed to fix the issue, they contacted Lectric again and a new controller assembly (including display CPU) was sent that fixed the issue. All covered under warranty. Contact Lectric vis email is best, they should double check your settings and if they are ok then a controller will fix it more than likely. I've got over 3000 trouble free miles on mine after fixing a front wheel bearing under warranty (Lectric credited me the cost for a local bike shop repair) superb customer service from Lectric.

 

[Taylor57]

Lectric has been great. Customer service responsive and timely. Best 899 I ever spent. Opened the gateway to who knows what! Battery is worth 30-40 miles per trip and the bike is a tank. 63 pounds of pure pleasure and enjoyment. I haven't ridden it in awhile but my son is driving it on Uber Eats runs makin that money!! In my all time fave list that includes my old Schwinn Lemon Peeler!

 

[lloose]

Wondering how this turned out. I have a new Lectric xp step thru and PAS 1 is just too much, too fast. I also have an FLX mid drive ebike and a new Radmini step thru who both get it right - smooth slow gentle pas level 1, for slow cycling. Lectric failed at it which is too bad. You can't say you get what you pay for, since this is really just a design and engineering error on Lectric's part.

Somethings wrong for sure. My PAS1 is basically worthless its so slow. Even for a new rider who isn't used to ebikes. Im talking like 1-2mph assistance.

 

[tx4md]

Wondering how this turned out. I have a new Lectric xp step thru and PAS 1 is just too much, too fast. I also have an FLX mid drive ebike and a new Radmini step thru who both get it right - smooth slow gentle pas level 1, for slow cycling. Lectric failed at it which is too bad. You can't say you get what you pay for, since this is really just a design and engineering error on Lectric's part.

So neither the cadence sensor or the controller fixed my issue. It took me awhile to be able to do the controller swap due to breaking my hand, pulling apart and reconnecting all the wires was difficult, and alas it did not resolve the PAS malfunction. Lectric then sent me a new display unit which includes the screen and the power/levels button(s). This was the easiest component to R&R and actually solved the issue. It did take over a month the get the replacement unit due to shipping issues ( only going to get worse ) but after installation and one more call to Lectric to get the Walk Mode activated, everything seems to work as advertised. To anyone having problems with the PAS levels, see if they will start with the display unit because it is an easy swap out. Hopefully they ordered a good supply and will have them readily available.

FWIW- I have two of the XP's and so far no problems on the 2nd one

 

[gdkalligher]

Hello are you riding many hills? My 2020 Lectric XP with 1500 miles has been in the "shop" aka my garage for months starting with PAS issues on hills that turned into the bike battery crashing losing all function. Resetting the key off / on brings it back to life but only until the next hill and the volts again drop to 41 or less (visible on the display). The support folks at Lectric sent a throttle cable and controller but neither the PAS nor battery issues improved. They asked me to buy a multimeter and test the battery just after the battery crashes on a hill. A fully charged battery reads zero volts with the multimeter until I reset with the key off / on again. It's a good lesson for those considering either a bike via dealer or direct from manufacturer. If you buy a lemon direct your bike will end up spending a lot of time in the garage.

 

[myers830]

Hello are you riding many hills? My 2020 Lectric HP with 1500 miles has been in the "shop" aka my garage for months starting with PAS issues on hills that turned into the bike battery crashing losing all function. Resetting the key off / on brings it back to life but only until the next hill and the volts again drop to 41 or less (visible on the display). The support folks at Lectric sent a throttle cable and controller but neither the PAS nor battery issues improved. They asked me to buy a multimeter and test the battery just after the battery crashes on a hill. A fully charged battery reads zero volts with the multimeter until I reset with the key off / on again. It's a good lesson for those considering either a bike via dealer or direct from manufacturer. If you buy a lemon direct your bike will end up spending a lot of time in the garage.

So you were told to spend your own money on a new multi-meter...to troubleshoot a problem for them? (i.e...we won't send you any more parts unless you do). I think most new Internet eBike buyers are willing to roll the dice and fork over their money (and sometimes waiting months to get it) just to get on the bandwagon. Frankly the local conventional bike dealers are playing right into their hands because (in my area anyway), if you call a local bike shop to help you with an eBike that they didn't sell to you...you will most likely get turned away especially if it has ANYTHING to do with the electronics. I seriously hope the local bike shops get their act together and put eBike sales as a priority even if its a new thing for them. They aren't going away and they are just missing out on the market that the Internet eBike companies have tapped into. Electronic problems are the #1 problem that eBike buyers fear the most...yet are pretty much left on their own once they happen because nobody is going to send an eBike back to get it serviced. I would agree that you if you are thinking about buying a new eBike and have no mechanical or electrical experience or know anybody who does...DON'T buy one on the Internet, even if you have to pay a couple of hundred dollars more or have to travel an hour to buy one. Looking long term, its a wash in terms of money spent (or saved). Peace of mind to some folks is even more important than saving a few bucks upfront. In your case no local bike shop is going to tell you to go out and buy a new multi-meter. Just bring it in.

 

[arcom]

DON'T buy one on the Internet, even if you have to pay a couple of hundred dollars more

If I could’ve purchased my E bike, or one similar, locally for a vig of $300 I certainly would’ve. But there was no way I could. There are two competent bike shops near me. Both sell “name brand” ebikes starting at $3k. One will work on my bike, the other one won’t touch it.

 

[DavidRvR]

I have 2 of these.. First off for the price... You cant complain.. There is a reason we all bought them... We felt they was worth the gamble..

Might just blew the controller after close to 500 miles.. Most of those was towing a cart with the grand kids.. Wife's Bike is still going strong.. Only issue I have or have had was the display never reflects actual battery left.

Buy cheap bikes and have issues...

Spend the 5-10k at a local shop and no worries on how to get it fixed... But again this backs up to me being cheap.. But I will say this.. This bike has gotten me to enjoy the outdoors a little more than I would have.. especially on a bike..

It has opened a door to doing something I never thought I would.. Biking...

After 2 years of ownership I am upgrading ... Bought 2 frey bikes... Still no srvice centers close but I feel if anything goes bad or fails.. I can fix it myself if needed..

Those 2 bikes were over $10k with everything ..

 

[tx4md]

Hello are you riding many hills? My 2020 Lectric XP with 1500 miles has been in the "shop" aka my garage for months starting with PAS issues on hills that turned into the bike battery crashing losing all function. Resetting the key off / on brings it back to life but only until the next hill and the volts again drop to 41 or less (visible on the display). The support folks at Lectric sent a throttle cable and controller but neither the PAS nor battery issues improved. They asked me to buy a multimeter and test the battery just after the battery crashes on a hill. A fully charged battery reads zero volts with the multimeter until I reset with the key off / on again. It's a good lesson for those considering either a bike via dealer or direct from manufacturer. If you buy a lemon direct your bike will end up spending a lot of time in the garage.

Funny you mention hills as I am now having issues with my other XP after going up a 2.5 mile hill . About .5 miles from the top the bike died and after letting it rest a while, thinking it may be a heat issue, I tried proceeding but it worked only briefly before it died again and started showing error codes 7 and 9. I walked the bike the rest of the way to the top, parked it and let it rest for 30 minutes or so while I enjoyed the view. When I tried the throttle or PAS 1 again, the same code(s) showed and I ended up coasting the 2.5 miles downhill back. At the bottom I just pedaled back to my campsite. I did try using it again the next day and it would go about 10 feet, die and throw the code(s) plus it sounds like a grinding sound coming from the rear hub. Seems as though both the controller and the motor could not handle the hill. I saw in another post that the code 9 is the controller and code 7 is the motor.

I will of course contact Lectric and am sure they will be very responsive as they were with the PAS issue on my other XP but I do sort of dread having to go back and forth with the "try this" method. The XP's are a great value if they are working but now I am two for two having issues and both bikes have had very light use. As others have posted, it seems you must spend much more to have a bike that would be supported by a shop but I think I'll look into it next time.

 

[rawlus]

Funny you mention hills as I am now having issues with my other XP after going up a 2.5 mile hill . About .5 miles from the top the bike died and after letting it rest a while, thinking it may be a heat issue, I tried proceeding but it worked only briefly before it died again and started showing error codes 7 and 9. I walked the bike the rest of the way to the top, parked it and let it rest for 30 minutes or so while I enjoyed the view. When I tried the throttle or PAS 1 again, the same code(s) showed and I ended up coasting the 2.5 miles downhill back. At the bottom I just pedaled back to my campsite. I did try using it again the next day and it would go about 10 feet, die and throw the code(s) plus it sounds like a grinding sound coming from the rear hub. Seems as though both the controller and the motor could not handle the hill. I saw in another post that the code 9 is the controller and code 7 is the motor.

I will of course contact Lectric and am sure they will be very responsive as they were with the PAS issue on my other XP but I do sort of dread having to go back and forth with the "try this" method. The XP's are a great value if they are working but now I am two for two having issues and both bikes have had very light use. As others have posted, it seems you must spend much more to have a bike that would be supported by a shop but I think I'll look into it next time.

what level of sustained current draw did you have on this hill? if not throttle only what level of human effort was complementing the motor?

 

[tx4md]

I was using PAS 2 and 3 the whole time, no throttle use, while going up the hill. I don't know what the current draw was. I did try using the throttle, as well as pedal assist, after the motor died just to see if things were working but it killed the motor right error and threw the codes.