I'm curious, when you checked your controller to battery connection were you able to move the controller at all? I could not move mine. I did pealed down the rubber seal on the frame but could not figure out what was keeping the controller in place. Based on Deans experience my controller was most likely in wrong & wedged. The bike is on its way back to Juiced so that is something they can review.
Juiced support is on the ball!
- Thread starter Reid
- Start date
iamhere
New Member
Haven’t checked controller yet. My intuition is that it’s somehow related to temperature, since it only throws the codes in the morning. If the new 1-4 doesn’t fix, then I will pull controller.
"I had trouble getting the 2 battery fuses out for inspection, and was afraid I might break them, so Luis made me a video on exactly how to remove them. That's the only helpful instruction he's given me so far"
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Dean would you post the video Luis made of how the remove the 2 battery fuses? thanks
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Dean would you post the video Luis made of how the remove the 2 battery fuses? thanks
Great list Neil. If I could also add based on my experience:
If you see damage to the box get a picture of the box on the truck & write on the delivery slip "box completely damaged and open. Missing and/or damage to contents unknown" & sign it.
Go on line and report the condition of the packaging to Juiced and create a ticket. Attach a copy of the delivery slip & photos you took. You may never have to make a damage claim with this ticket but if you do the Carrier can be charged back for costs & just maybe - Juiced will ship repair parts priority delivery (doesn't hurt to ask right?)
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Barry S
Well-Known Member
@Reid would you recommend applying dielectric grease to all of the connectors on an ebike upon delivery? What about the battery terminals? Here on O'ahu it's very common to get caught in a quick passing light shower in the early morning or late afternoon during commute hours. Not an issue on my non-ebike, but just wondering how most ebike components handle that level of moisture: LCD display, battery, controller, motor, etc. I've read where some of Giant's ebikes have had problems with moisture in the display but it was covered under warranty, which leads me to believe that they should be able to handle a ride in the rain. A monsoon may be a different story.
Barry S
Well-Known Member
Voltbike recently moved the controller for their Yukon 750 from the cavity below the integrated battery on the down tube to the seat tube like the RadRover. After watching a video from Voltbike on how to remove the controller from this former location, it's apparent as to why it's now mounted separately. I'm wondering if the RCS is experiencing the same problem.
iamhere
New Member
Ok - it’s working this morning. The controller temp is showing as 17 degrees. (Warmer day in NorCal).
Yesterday it didn’t work until the controller temp showed about 14.7 or so.
Before that, the controller temp showed literally “0.”
I *think* that the controller temp sensor was/is speced for warmer operating environments and literally cannot show temps below 14.5.
At the core, temp sensors are mechanical devices, since they have to turn an analog thing (actual analog temperature) into a digital thing (numerical temperature). Kind of like how microphones work.
I’m just guessing here, but I think the temp sensor here is likely something that’s speced for a common use (like a computer or a vape or a mass flow air temp sensor or a cell phone).
All of those things use temp sensors.
The issue here is that the display doesn’t like to see “0” coming from the temp sensor when the temp sensor is below its speced operating range.
So it throws Error 30.
Three ways for Juiced to fix:
1) Spec a different temp sensor
2) Program the controller to trick the trmp sensor into reading “something” if it’s below operating temp.
3) Change the display to be “ok” with a temp of “0”
This is all highly speculative and is based on me trouble shooting cars and computers and not ebikes, lol.
Juiced can easily test if my theory is correct by putting a controller in a freezer for a few minutes and then hooking it up to a test rig.
Yesterday it didn’t work until the controller temp showed about 14.7 or so.
Before that, the controller temp showed literally “0.”
I *think* that the controller temp sensor was/is speced for warmer operating environments and literally cannot show temps below 14.5.
At the core, temp sensors are mechanical devices, since they have to turn an analog thing (actual analog temperature) into a digital thing (numerical temperature). Kind of like how microphones work.
I’m just guessing here, but I think the temp sensor here is likely something that’s speced for a common use (like a computer or a vape or a mass flow air temp sensor or a cell phone).
All of those things use temp sensors.
The issue here is that the display doesn’t like to see “0” coming from the temp sensor when the temp sensor is below its speced operating range.
So it throws Error 30.
Three ways for Juiced to fix:
1) Spec a different temp sensor
2) Program the controller to trick the trmp sensor into reading “something” if it’s below operating temp.
3) Change the display to be “ok” with a temp of “0”
This is all highly speculative and is based on me trouble shooting cars and computers and not ebikes, lol.
Juiced can easily test if my theory is correct by putting a controller in a freezer for a few minutes and then hooking it up to a test rig.
iamhere
New Member
It did it the other day even though I brought the battery in the night before. At that point I thought it was something to do with battery connector.
The thing that really makes me think it’s the temp sensor is that if I press “+” and power while it’s throwing an Error 30, I can see the detailed info screen for about a second.
It always shows “0” controller temp when the bike is in Error 30. The lowest temp it will show when the bike is not in Error 30 is about 14.7.
So -
controller temp < 14.7 = “0” = Error 30
controller temp >= 14.7 = operation as normal.
iamhere
New Member
It’s likely there is condensation. The controller should be potted or otherwise weatherized. I will likely pull it this weekend and look at it.
In a way, if it’s a moisture problem - it would be worse, since a common thing to do on a bicycle is to ride in wet or damp conditions.
The other thing that could be happening is that the 1-4 connector has a type of internal short that is bimetallic. In other words, due to how different metals expand at different temperatures, the short would come and go.
While using dielectric grease on an electrical joint is harmless when there's proper contact, it can possibly inhibit the connection when the contact is less than proper. After all, DG is a thick, gooey insulator that could easily get between these super cheap itty bitty pins and sockets on these Velveeta plastic bike connectors. The toy industry uses better connectors than these.
Anyway, I used Max Pro Electronic lubricant on my RCS's connectors which should keep the nasties out and will not likely help a less than perfect connection to fail. I'm sure DG will be fine too if you just put it where the male slips over the female end, and may even last longer. I've used Max Pro daily for 15 years on indoor and outdoor electronics. It's great stuff that everyone who does anything electrical should have.
John from Connecticut
Well-Known Member
I mean this with all due respect and not questioning the the various 'solutions', but we're talking about a new e-bike, not a science project. As mentioned prior, based on the 30 second ( sped up, why ? ) YouTube video showing controller removal, all of the mini-connectors are significant points of failure and would 'scare' me, failure wise. Compare the connectors to automotive type engine connectors. The controller appears to be a generic ( inexpensive ? ) off the self unit that slides into the frame with what appears to not be secured as shown in the video.
As for the various DIY suggestions to increase reliability, they seem to have merit, how much long term confidence does this instill ? Should you possibly solve the problem, in almost cases of uncertain failures of this type, the only positive way to know is ride and hope the failure does not return.
I ride in some very remote trail locations, sometimes into the night and I want to know, except for a flat that I won't be walking my 45 pound e-bike home. Full disclosure, I ride another brand e-bike. My intent is to be helpful and factual, not knock Juiced
John from CT
As for the various DIY suggestions to increase reliability, they seem to have merit, how much long term confidence does this instill ? Should you possibly solve the problem, in almost cases of uncertain failures of this type, the only positive way to know is ride and hope the failure does not return.
I ride in some very remote trail locations, sometimes into the night and I want to know, except for a flat that I won't be walking my 45 pound e-bike home. Full disclosure, I ride another brand e-bike. My intent is to be helpful and factual, not knock Juiced
John from CT
@John from Connecticut
I am not disagreeing with you that connectors might be weak - I don't have anything to compare against other than Molly connectors in a PC.
Two questions:
If the connector is much more reliable and only slightly more expensive then the maybe Tora can work it into the next gen.
Thanks!
I am not disagreeing with you that connectors might be weak - I don't have anything to compare against other than Molly connectors in a PC.
Two questions:
- Are you comparing between a like price-point (sub $2000) bikes (i.e. your has a heavier/better connects and is roughly the same price point?)
- Can you upload an image of your connectors, and maybe also next to something for scale like a #2 pencil.
If the connector is much more reliable and only slightly more expensive then the maybe Tora can work it into the next gen.
Thanks!
Sure I'll post the video link tonight. Just so everyone knows, you DO NOT unscrew the screws to get the fuses out. They simply pull out straight, cap and all, but they're in very tight. My hand pain kept me from pulling them straight out until I knew for certain how to get them out.... wiggle them! Dean
Yeah, Max Pro 4125. I use it on electric guitars to make them gig-ready. It's important to musicians their guitars are as electrically quiet and reliable on stage during a performance. This stuff is the bomb.
CrC makes something similar I was going to try, but it's a Add-On item on Amazon, and I can't seem to hit the $25 limit to get it shipped.
DeanGlenn-rod, Below is the video Luis made me showing how to pull the 52v battery's fuses out. If you have hard-to-pull fuses in your juiced pack and bad hands like me, seeing how you wiggle them out with grippy safety gloves is helpful. You DO NOT unscrew the two screws at each side to get the fuses out. Also, Luis said the factory may have used RTV to keep the fuse caps tight to the fuses and says to use a little isopropyl alcohol to loosen the RTV so you can examine the fuse condition.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/wmqqjvqn4dsy2re/fuse cover.mov?dl=0
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