JACKS FOR EBIKE?

[Base]

OK, maybe I'll give it a try.

My house was built in 1942, so the timbers are old.

we've got those https://hollandbikeshop.com/en-gb/b...uperlift-bicycle-rig-up-to-57kg-black-734067/

same system. Personally I would use a different cord, the ones which come with these systems are rather poor. and yes they work. I do not own these but a relative does.

 

[Gionnirocket]

Sister the joists with equivalent dimensional lumber, or better yet, 3/4" plywood. Lag the sandwich horizontally. Lag the hoist to the underside of the joist inside the sandwich.

I'm not sure I would trust that..
I'd sister the beam with an equivalent steel one and make sure it went the full legnth of the joists resting on the joist supports. Then I'd add a steel column on each side of each stationary pulley just to be sure.
Your lifting a bike... Not a car.
I'm in +100 year old 2x10 floor joist so if you're in 2x4 roof/ceiling rafters maybe then I would add some lumber. 2x6 and above you're fine

 

[Gionnirocket]

we've got those https://hollandbikeshop.com/en-gb/b...uperlift-bicycle-rig-up-to-57kg-black-734067/

same system. Personally I would use a different cord, the ones which come with these systems are rather poor. and yes they work. I do not own these but a relative does.

I agree the cord could be better... But two years in and they still have all strands in tact.
I plan on getting some parachute cord if it ever does give me a reason for concern.

 

[stompandgo]

I'm not sure I would trust that..
I'd sister the beam with an equivalent steel one and make sure it went the full legnth of the joists resting on the joist supports. Then I'd add a steel column on each side of each stationary pulley just to be sure.
Your lifting a bike... Not a car.
I'm in +100 year old 2x10 floor joist so if you're in 2x4 roof/ceiling rafters maybe then I would add some lumber. 2x6 and above you're fine

1-1/2" of plywood is much, much stronger than equivalent softwood 2x dimensional lumber.

 

[Gionnirocket]

1-1/2" of plywood is much, much stronger than equivalent softwood 2x dimensional lumber.

I concur.
My point was that we are lifting at max a 100lb bike with the load spread between at a minimum 2 points of the structure. If it's built to code there's no need to over think it.
@PCeBiker if you end up being perpendicular to your joist... Just use a 2x4 to span the 3 or 4 joist and you can put it exactly where you want.

 

[stompandgo]

Take a look at the picture again. As I said, I'm not concerned about the undersized lumber being able to support 100 pounds. I'm concerned that the roof is not structural, and that deflection of the joists will cause the roof to leak over time.

Carry on.

 

[Gionnirocket]

Take a look at the picture again. As I said, I'm not concerned about the undersized lumber being able to support 100 pounds. I'm concerned that the roof is not structural, and that deflection of the joists will cause the roof to leak over time.

Carry on.

ahhh... That's where the disconnect is. Gotcha.
I believe those photos are from the aussie mate not Mr. PC so we were talking about two different situations.
Looking at the photos it's hard to know for sure but they look like 2x6 cross members and 3x3 roof rafters. Size wise that's good but the spacing between seems to be a bit heavy. And yes the roof adds no integrity. The span of the 2x6 looks so short that he's probably OK. But I guess adding some reinforcement couldn't hurt as everything is wide open and easy to work with.

 

[PCeBiker]

Sister the joists with equivalent dimensional lumber, or better yet, 3/4" plywood. Lag the sandwich horizontally. Lag the hoist to the underside of the joist inside the sandwich.

I talked to my sister, and she doesn't have any plywood or sandwiches.

ahhh... That's where the disconnect is. Gotcha.
I believe those photos are from the aussie mate not Mr. PC so we were talking about two different situations.

So here's what I got going on,..

And here's how I attached it in the attic,..

As a precaution I always drill pilot holes so the wood doesn't split. You can also put a little wax or other light lube ( I've used hand lotion in a pinch) to make it easy to drive them in. Especially useful on old timbers.

And here's what I bought today,..

I've got the ceiling tiles and another layer of similar type material that is 2" thick, with 2x4's above. (That actually Do measure a full 2 inches by 4 inches like from the olden days. )

I've got two Stud sensors that I don't trust,..

so I'm going to push the BBQ Sqewers through from the attic, right beside the beams, to mark where they are.

The sensors can't read worth a crap through all that sawdust breadboard crap.

And look,..
I found pulleys and ratchets that I've had for over 20 years.

With 4 pullies coupled with 3 pullies and a couple hundred feet of parachute cord, I can lift 5 or 10 ebikes.
Maybe even a car or two

 

[stompandgo]

That beautiful tile ceiling

 

[Gionnirocket]

I'm sorry but I have to be a critic as I don't want to see you get hurt.
I don't like the U bolt with nuts as they can easily vibrate loose and you may not see any warning sign from below. I would at a minimum use thread lock and a double nut on each thread.
That said... If that was my house I would have used the eyebolt lags and any work in the attic would be to sister up the beam. A lag would never get loose and it would look much neater on the finished ceiling.

 

[PCeBiker]

That beautiful tile ceiling

Yeah, I made a mess of my ceiling.

 

[PCeBiker]

I'm sorry but I have to be a critic as I don't want to see you get hurt.
I don't like the U bolt with nuts as they can easily vibrate loose and you may not see any warning sign from below. I would at a minimum use thread lock and a double nut on each thread.

I had forgotten exactly how I connected the U bolt so I went to look and take a picture.
I don't know what happened? It's not like ther isn't room for a second nut? I must forgotten to finish it up? (More dumb s*it that shouldn't have happened.)

I wasn't thinking when I installed the U bolt, and put it in the middle of my ceiling instead of two eye bolts spaced apart.

That said... If that was my house I would have used the eyebolt lags and any work in the attic would be to sister up the beam. A lag would never get loose and it would look much neater on the finished ceiling.

So that's my plan now.
I want to put two lag bolts directly into the studs that are spaced out properly to center my ebike where I want it.
I'll poke the BBQ Sqewer through the ceiling from above to show me where the stud is from below.

And I'll put two more nuts and thread locker on the U bolt.


I don't really need a rope and pulley lift. The tie down straps have been working fine and it's not hard for me to lift one end of the ebike at a time to get it in the air.

As a precaution I always drill pilot holes so the wood doesn't split.

What size drill bit should I use for my ⅜ inch lag bolts?
I don't want a hole that's to big or too small.

 

[Gionnirocket]

Stop the press's... I stand corrected!!
Just doing a little reading and a lag eyebolt isn't really designed for lifting as a swinging load can cause it to loosen. They are designed for use with static loads and straight line gives the strongest load capacity.

The kit lift I linked to it's OK to use lag bolts because they go through the mounting plates and there are 2 per pulley which eliminates the swing effect on the lag itself.
Since the ceiling damage is done it may be best to just reinforce what you've already done
This all said 2 - 3/8 lag used straight line in solid wood is probably rated at hundreds of pound and lifting 50 pounds each would probably take a 100 years to loosen, if ever. But I'd think twice before using it for something like a porch swing.
Myself I would do it for neatness and test it by lifting myself (165lbs) off the ladder. But I can't give you that advice knowing what I know now.

There's charts for pilot hole size... But I typically go a little smaller than the solid part of the lag shank not including the threads. Putting a long screwdriver through the eye makes it easier to spin.

 

[stompandgo]

The pilot hole should be just under shank size, so 3/16"-1/4" for a 3/8". I would not only sister the joists, I'd install blocking on either side of the lifting joist, screwed to the adjacent joists. Like the guy with the shed with the corrugated roof, I'm concerned that your tile ceiling will start to come apart from movement.