Hydra Chainline Issue Fixed

Cuz Vinny

Well-Known Member
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My issue with using the Christini 104BCD adapter has been fixed. It was what I expected, the Hydra likes a large front chainring to keep things lined up and happy. I got a Dekas 46T 104BCD front ring off Amazon and mounted it on the inboard (closer to the frame) side of the adapter. Now as I expected, everything lines up and I can use all ten gears. This new setup in combination with the replacement parts I got from Pushkar and my bike is completely sorted. I do have an orange 44T 104BCD ring on order so I’ll swap to that once it comes in. The correct size coil spring for my shock comes in on Friday so that will be fixed in time for the weekend.

So what’s the benefit of using the adapter now that you have to run a large front ring? Really just weight reduction. It’s much lighter than the stock setup so that “should” improve performance as it will be easier to spin. Is it worth the cash for the mod? IMO honestly, no. I paid the cash to do it so I’m keeping it on the bike but knowing what I know now I’d have kept the money in my pocket.
 
To be able to comfortably cruise at 25mph+ you want a pretty big chainring, which I do quite a bit in the city. My Juiced has a 52 front and 11-32 rear 9 speed and the cadence is really nice all the way up through 30 mph. It could use more low range for climbing for sure, but its only 32 rear and its a hub drive. A mid drive with 46t front and 46t rear should have no issues climbing anything especially with 2300w. If I get one will probably want to do 52t front 11-46 rear, but would have to feel it out.
 
To be able to comfortably cruise at 25mph+ you want a pretty big chainring, which I do quite a bit in the city. My Juiced has a 52 front and 11-32 rear 9 speed and the cadence is really nice all the way up through 30 mph. It could use more low range for climbing for sure, but its only 32 rear and its a hub drive. A mid drive with 46t front and 46t rear should have no issues climbing anything especially with 2300w. If I get one will probably want to do 52t front 11-46 rear, but would have to feel it out.
IMO a 52T front ring will be too big. It will hit the chainstay. If you look at my pics the swing arm has an indent in it for the front ring. A 46T fits nicely, could possibly do a 48T, anything larger and it will most likely rub.
 
IMO a 52T front ring will be too big. It will hit the chainstay. If you look at my pics the swing arm has an indent in it for the front ring. A 46T fits nicely, could possibly do a 48T, anything larger and it will most likely rub.
Looks like the difference in diameter between 46 and 52 is about an inch so it needs an extra 1/2 inch on that side to clear, hard to tell from the pic but it looks like it could have 1/2 inch there. Unfortunate otherwise to be able to get a good cadence at the speed these bikes can do but perhaps with 27.5 wheels vs 26 on my Juiced and maybe trying to get a 10t in the rear it will be fine even with a 46 or 48. The stock seems far too small for comfortable cadence IMO unless your just sticking to class 2 speeds.
 
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Pushkar says he can add a different size if I'd like. What's the benefit of doing so?
If so, what size should I upgrade to?
Is the chain affected in terms of needing a longer chain?

TIA
 
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My issue with using the Christini 104BCD adapter has been fixed. It was what I expected, the Hydra likes a large front chainring to keep things lined up and happy. I got a Dekas 46T 104BCD front ring off Amazon and mounted it on the inboard (closer to the frame) side of the adapter. Now as I expected, everything lines up and I can use all ten gears. This new setup in combination with the replacement parts I got from Pushkar and my bike is completely sorted. I do have an orange 44T 104BCD ring on order so I’ll swap to that once it comes in. The correct size coil spring for my shock comes in on Friday so that will be fixed in time for the weekend.

So what’s the benefit of using the adapter now that you have to run a large front ring? Really just weight reduction. It’s much lighter than the stock setup so that “should” improve performance as it will be easier to spin. Is it worth the cash for the mod? IMO honestly, no. I paid the cash to do it so I’m keeping it on the bike but knowing what I know now I’d have kept the money in my pocket.
Really great mod work info and photos.
I installed a Dekas 48T Narrow Wide - and custom, laser-cut bash ring - on my Hub-drive some time back. End of the road size without interfering w/ my chain-stay.
A stock 44T had me pedaling like a (mad) clown, so a 48T works better. A 52T would be super.
Perhaps I'm thinking like a "Commuter", but your Hydra's CS looks like it'd accept a 52T - upping road speed another 13% per rotation.
Also, as you know even w/ a 44T, for Hydra off-road a (robust) bash ring is an idea. Mine is for City driving, but adds a little protection and keeps my pants out of the ring too.
Going lower gears w/ big power reminds me of a 427 conversion Toyota Landcruiser I owned. It had a three-speed and stock low ratio rear end - w/ lockers on all 4 corners. First was useless. Second would burn rubber. Third went to 55mph w/ engine screaming @6000rpm.
Locked, in Compound Low third it would spin all 4 wheels at barely a touch of the pedal.
I've been contemplating just what you are addressing. All that's holding me back from ordering a Hydra, while I plan my Ti UC 'Streetfighter' is the gearing issues.
I look at it like this. I can have a shop %$*# it up, or I can %^#@ it up. But only I have a will to get it perfect and won't deliberately mislead me.
Cost is the same for 'start-up'. After the wrong parts and learning time investment it's free money, and the ability to know the difference is priceless.
So you won. Again. And thanks for the heads-up.
But Cuz', why you want more low end power, escapes me? Sports mode not enough?

Fn'F
 

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IMO a 52T front ring will be too big. It will hit the chainstay. If you look at my pics the swing arm has an indent in it for the front ring. A 46T fits nicely, could possibly do a 48T, anything larger and it will most likely rub.
I agree. My micrometer indicates chain-links (center to center) are roughly 0.5".
Photo does not look like 52T would fit (by a long shot). 48T, maybe.
You know me. Dekas 48T is cheap ($11.00?). I'd whip out my puller and try it, thinking (If it came with a 44) 9% longer legs can't be too bad, - unless the 9% off the bottom end is too much to live with. In fact that's just what I did!
Looks like the difference in diameter between 46 and 52 is about an inch so it needs an extra 1/2 inch on that side to clear, hard to tell from the pic but it looks like it could have 1/2 inch there. Unfortunate otherwise to be able to get a good cadence at the speed these bikes can do but perhaps with 27.5 wheels vs 26 on my Juiced and maybe trying to get a 10t in the rear it will be fine even with a 46 or 48. The stock seems far too small for comfortable cadence IMO unless your just sticking to class 2 speeds.
 
Pushkar says he can add a different size if I'd like. What's the benefit of doing so?
If so, what size should I upgrade to?
Is the chain affected in terms of needing a longer chain?

TIA
Ring Gear: Smaller for lower end power. Larger for higher top end.
Rear drive gear(s) - cluster, cassette: Smaller for higher top end. Larger for lower end power.
Pushkar will know your frame's (chain stay) limitations.
Replacing a 46T with a 48T, my chain was/ is the same. I adjusted tensioner as a normal practice.
I research first. Sram says chain is (in most cases for an x1 bike) fine with one size up or down. Going two sizes, you must remove 2 links - the minimum possible. Most sources say with a derailer, 2 sizes change is no problem.
Again, I would follow Pushkar's advice.
 
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