How much "power" do I really need?

Suspension makes a huge difference in the comfort level. I have it in front as well as suspension seat post and with my back rack I carry extra battery and tools.
 
My Radrunner was terrible on bumps. At 30 PSI, those wide tires were stiffer than other tires at 60 PSI. A suspension post and seat with springs made little difference. A worse problem was that the handlebars were at belt height and not far ahead of my belt. That made my upper body unstable and thus the steering dangerously unstable.

It was much better after I moved the seat back to get it away from the bars. Comfort on bumps was an unexpected benefit. Instead of sitting erect, I was leaning forward, a bit like standing with my butt against a wall for stability. My legs were absorbing most of the bump energy, and they did it better than my spine.

Wrist shocks were still so bad that apparently I tore a tendon. It felt as if I had a broken bone in my wrist. It finally dawned on my that I could use a riser to raise the bars a few inches. Raising the bars meant less weight on my hands, and my arms were freer to swing on bumps instead of transmitting shock lengthways.

I also bought different bars to change the angle of my wrists. It still had stiff tires and no suspension but was now comfortable on bumps. My legs could lift my butt, and my wrists could "float."

The photo shows my position with the seat back 7 extra inches on a layback post, braced with a plywood triangle. Leaning forward to put weight on the pedals took the weight off the seat, and that meant comfort. However, these bars were too low, not letting my arms swing up to float over bumps.
run seating.jpeg
 
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That setup looks painful. With no front suspension you feel everything you go over. Nothing to absorb the rough roads. I wanted my bike to be comfy as possible so I added a riser and Jones H bar to allow my arms to be higher up and back. Much better ride. Here's some photos.
 

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No 20" wheels for me. Been there, done that, 1957-61. I ride 26"x2.1" tires at 55 psi. Cargo bike, no suspension, no seat post spring, everything feels fine up to 4 hours. My hands & wrists go numb before my back & neck hurt.
I second bithigh's experience, 8 mph average is fine. The extra 250 watts over legal limit is to maintain that speed up 12% grades with 330 lb gross. I'm only 160 lb. 80 lb of 330 is groceries, ag chemicals, lawnmower fuel, tire, tubes, tools, rain gear.
 
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In the end it's whatever you want. Some like a stiff ride, some don't. I prefer not feeling the road anymore then then I have to. The extra weight is nominal. With enough power, gears or both, the hills are no problem.
 
That setup looks painful. With no front suspension you feel everything you go over. Nothing to absorb the rough roads. I wanted my bike to be comfy as possible so I added a riser and Jones H bar to allow my arms to be higher up and back. Much better ride. Here's some photos.
Here's what a riser did for me on my Radrunner. I'd say the bars were now 10" above seat level, which was typical of how riders adjusted classic 3-speed commuting bikes (although those bars had a better wrist angle).

My forearm was almost level, so a little elbow flexing would let my hands float with the bars. By suddenly retarding forward motion, a bump also causes the rider to lurch forward relative to the bars. In this position, flexing of elbows and shoulders would absorb that, too.

My Abound came with a front suspension and something like 10" of height adjustment for the bars. After several months, I locked out the suspension out of curiosity. The bumps were sharper, but the riding experience was virtually the same because the shocks weren't transmitted through hands, wrists, and arms.
riser.jpeg
 
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I retired from trucking in 2000. I pulled double tanker trailers that had those super single tires on them. Those things made me nervous. With dual tires, the second tire will keep the load upright. But blow a super single with 105,000 lbs. load and that liquid load could roll. Never noticed the lack of comfort, the tractor had normal duals. My bike has balloon type, not the fatties. Good ride.
 
the floaters i refer too are those heavy duty 65 mph things that cost way more than an 11.00,things would beat you to death and when the alingment was bad these things let you know it.
The wide tire was suppossed to be lighter than the duals thus saving on fuel. The discomfort and worry to the driver was secondary. On bikes I fail to see the advantage of the fat tires.
 
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