Fixing a flat tire-remove derailleur?
- Thread starter dodgeman
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stanmiller
Active Member
Typically you shouldn't need to remove derailleur. Shift to the next to smallest cog on wheel. Rotate derailleur arm back (which would be forward) with one hand and remove wheel with the other. Sometimes I unmount the disc brake bracket when reinstalling wheel as it's easier to navigate the wheel back into drop outs without needing to thread the disc between the pads.
Last edited:
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
No!
Before you do anything else, raise the rear wheel, and using your finger on the shifter and hand on the pedal, upshift into the top gear so the chain gets onto the smallest cassette cog.
Depending on the derailleur (Shimano or SRAM), you need to release the clutch next. It is a gray tab on the derailleur on Shimano ones. Once the clutch is released, you should be able to move the derailleur cage forward with your hand. (The locked clutch makes such a movement impossible). Cheaper derailleurs have no clutch, so you could move the cage at any time.
Once the clutch has been released, remove the thru-axle or release the Quick Release skewer. Now, you need to pull the derailleur backwards to move the chain also backwards, and remove the wheel with the other hand - forward and downwards. (As it seems to be tricky, I always rotate my e-bike so it is standing on the handlebar bar-ends and the saddle; it looks easier that way).
In no way the derailleur should be removed for the wheel removal/replacement!
m@Robertson
Well-Known Member
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- USA
If you have rear-facing horizontal dropouts, then your life will be a LOT easier if you just take the damn derailleur off. One minute and one screw. Done. Now the tire can come off easily without gymnastics and curse words.
Look at @Stefan Mikes directions above... the wheel goes "forward and down" which is correct. For vertical dropouts. Ain't happening with the wheel below. Wheel has to go backward which puts it further behind the derailleur and the chain. I'll skip the explanation of how to deal with that because the smart move is to spend an easy minute taking the derailleur off.
Here's something to add to your instruction set, regardless of dropout type: First thing you do is pull the derailleur cage forward. Then with all that slack, you can easily take the chain off the front chainring (off and in FRONT of the chainring, not behind to the frame) and give yourself all manner of added maneuverability
Look at @Stefan Mikes directions above... the wheel goes "forward and down" which is correct. For vertical dropouts. Ain't happening with the wheel below. Wheel has to go backward which puts it further behind the derailleur and the chain. I'll skip the explanation of how to deal with that because the smart move is to spend an easy minute taking the derailleur off.
Here's something to add to your instruction set, regardless of dropout type: First thing you do is pull the derailleur cage forward. Then with all that slack, you can easily take the chain off the front chainring (off and in FRONT of the chainring, not behind to the frame) and give yourself all manner of added maneuverability
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
For thru-axles.
m@Robertson
Well-Known Member
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- USA
dodgeman
Well-Known Member
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- Macomb, Illinois
My derailleur is a Shimano but no clutch. Mine is a through axle and I think vertical. I have a chain guard so it’s not easy to take the chain off the front. It really wasn’t hard to take the derailleur off, I just wasn’t sure if it would throw the adjustment off. It didn’t seem to mess up the shifting.
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
You do not remove the chain whatsoever on the wheel removal/replacement. That's the whole point!
Whatever Matt here says, no sane cyclist removes the derailleur, and the chain remains where it is. Dodgeman, would you watch some good video...
m@Robertson
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
Well, sadly I see Stefan still makes uninformed yet supercilious comments. The difference here is that of someone who has the experience from working on the bikes he is talking about (thats me) versus one who just talks.
He failed to pay attention to the fact I was talking about rear-facing horizontal dropouts, which are a special case. And further missed that the Park video doesn't cover that style of wheel removal. If he is operating true to form his next line is going to be that horizontal dropouts aren't used on real bikes. Wait for it...
p.s. here is the textbook way to do it. Which doesn't always work. Thats why you'd pull the derailleur (it was standard to have to remove it on Sondors X Originals).
It won't hurt a thing so long as you don't yank on it and dislodge or stretch the cable, which nobody would do, right?
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
What? The OP does not ride such a contraption.
His e-bike has thru-axles with vertical dropouts. Removing/replacing the rear wheel is the one of the easiest operations on a thru-axle e-bike had you done it once. No need for derailleur or chain removal.
m@Robertson
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
sure we know that NOW, after the fact (not his fault). Just stop it already. You love to start meaningless fights.
dodgeman
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Macomb, Illinois
I’m actually not sure it’s a through axle or not. I didn’t pull it all the way out, just loosened it, which took an Allen wrench. It has a knurled “nut” on the end opposite the Allen head side. I probably won’t figure all this out until I go to take it apart again. My biggest mistake was probably not shifting to the smallest cog on the cassette.
fooferdoggie
Well-Known Member
yes thats key. I have a dt-swiss chub and it can be taken apart by hand. I tired removing the wheel without shifting down and popped the cassette right off.
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