First ride report & Low voltage setting for CCX

There are a number of studies done by USAF CAF and others regarding these protective products. There are other brands. I used ACF50, but am moving to Boeshield because it dries.

How to Use Boeshield T-9®
Boeshield T-9® protectant and lubricant was developed by the Boeing Company for long term metal protection. It can be used on all metal surfaces where corrosion protection and/or sliding lubrication are needed.
Boeshield T-9® is a solvent and paraffin wax based formula with over a dozen components including corrosion inhibitors. It penetrates, has a high creep rate, displaces moisture, lubricates, is waterproof, stops existing corrosion, exhibits excellent corrosion resisting results in salt spray exposure, and lasts for months and even years depending on use.
When applied, Boeshield T-9® sets to a soft, translucent, colourless, and waxy film which is not sticky, tends to shed dirt, and may be buffed to a shine. Set time varies from seconds to hours, and possibly days, depending on environment (air circulation, temperature, humidity, etc.) and thickness of coating. To be most effective Boeshield T-9 must be in contact with the metal and the solvent portion be allowed to evaporate.
Boeshield T-9® contains no harsh solvents and is safe to use around most paints, plastics, vinyls, wiring, and many glues. Because of its high dielectric it may be applied to electrical circuits, controls, and wiring. Boeshield T-9®does not require mixing, is not damaged by freezing, and shelf life is indefinite. Coverage for a single 12oz. aerosol can may exceed 500sq.ft. (46sq.m.) depending on method of application and thickness of coating. Boeshield T-9 contains no UV inhibitors and therefore must be reapplied more frequently (perhaps every 3 to 4 months) when exposed to direct sunlight for long periods in outdoor applications. Boeshield T-9® is effective from -40°F to +250° F (-40°C to +120°C).
Industrial Use and Tool Care
For long term metal protection during tool or parts storage apply Boeshield T-9® and allow to set. Repeat once or twice per year depending on environment and exposure. Reapplication does not build up.
Generally it is not necessary to remove Boeshield T-9® for subsequent welding operations. Testing is recommended.
For corrosion inhibition and sliding lubrication on tools in use such as on a table saw surface, spray on lightly and wipe, whetting entire surface. Immediately wipe dry. Reapply weekly or more often depending on service, environment, and exposure to maintain this thin film for corrosion protection and sliding surface.
Equipment table tops Blades and bits Woodworking machinery Metal working machinery Parts storage Hand tools Mechanics tools N/C tooling
Boeshield T-9® must be reapplied to cutting edges and surfaces after use of tools to maintain corrosion inhibiting properties. Use Blade & Bit and Rust Free as necessary to clean tools prior to applying Boeshield T-9®.
Bicycle and Motorcycle
For chains and cables apply Boeshield T-9®, wipe off excess, and allow to set for at least one hour. For new chains, dip or soak in Boeshield T-9®, squeegee off excess, and allow to set for a day or two. Spray inside frame tubes.
Road cyclists can get about 500Km (300mi+) per application in clean weather riding. In wet weather riding reapply after half that distance. For off road riding reapply after one quarter that distance, more frequently if conditions require. For best performance, “Apply tonight. Ride tomorrow.” to allow solvent portion to evaporate.
Aircraft
Coat the interior of wings, fuselage, tail, and control surfaces. Does not add significant weight to the airframe. One US gallon of liquid is more than sufficient for a typical single engine aircraft. Boeshield T-9® is applied during the “annual” when inspection covers are removed. Reapplication may not be required for 3 to 5 years, depending on service and exposure.
Very effective for rust proofing steel tubing on fabric covered aircraft. Testing should be performed on the exterior skin prior to application to ensure that no degradation of the material or lap joints takes place.
 
I'm glad I don't work with you Thomas, you'd write a thesis just to change a light bulb. My way of lubing a chain: spray it till soaked and bam it's lubed. My way of lubing an electrical contact: clean if necessary then spray with appropriate lube/spray and bam we're done. I'm a true follower of the KISS principle.
 
No not the alcohol, but the solvents sure seem to.

You are contradicting yourself. Both ACF50 & Boeshield T9 contain solvents. Naptha in the ACF50 and mineral spirits in the Boeshield T9. I don't see any advantages of these products over dielectric grease (contains no solvents) which is a proven product over many years of use and way cheaper.
 
You are contradicting yourself. Both ACF50 & Boeshield T9 contain solvents. Naptha in the ACF50 and mineral spirits in the Boeshield T9. I don't see any advantages of these products over dielectric grease (contains no solvents) which is a proven product over many years of use and way cheaper.
Yes, solvents but in MUCH smaller amounts. I respect your willingness to stay with a tried and true product. However, in my experience, going back to my days working the ramp at the Missoula County Airport and USFS Smoke Jumper Base, I was able to experience and see the difference Boeshield and ACF50 made. A coating of either can also protect aluminum. But I digress. I've used these products on my Vespa scoots and bicycles for many years now. Dielectric shares very few of the properties. I figure Boeing, and major aircraft engineers are a good source of expertise. With near $3000 invested in most single builds, and extra $5 for a superior product, according to electrical and structural engineers, doesn't worry me. But as ALWAYS, YMMV.

Ride safe!
I'm glad I don't work with you Thomas, you'd write a thesis just to change a light bulb. My way of lubing a chain: spray it till soaked and bam it's lubed. My way of lubing an electrical contact: clean if necessary then spray with appropriate lube/spray and bam we're done. I'm a true follower of the KISS principle.
Which I just provided you. One product to protect electronics and frame components as well as no oils to pick up dirt on the chain. Don't worry. I'm retired. I quit trying to educate the unwilling to learn new methods.
 
4. I charge the battery till the green light shows up on the charger. The max voltage I see is 57.9 after every full charge. Is that the case with all you guys?

.

The display appears to under-report Voltage by quite a bit. With a Cycle Satiator set to charge to 58.8V, at full charge and verified with multimeter, the battery is actually 58.8V. CCX display shows under 58V. The same is true of 50V - the CCX shows ~49V when a multimeter shows 50V. This proves that it isn't an upper limit set on the display.

Measuring low by 1V, low Voltage cutoff will be higher than what the settings show, and Wattage readings will be off by a small amount (2%, or around 25W). If there is programming to pull current when approaching low battery, this will also happen at a battery charge 8-10% higher than it would with a properly measured Voltage.

I doubt the display measures Voltage separately from the controller.

No other drawbacks, but it's still an issue that I haven't seen with any other ebike or DIY kits.
 
No other drawbacks, but it's still an issue that I haven't seen with any other ebike or DIY kits.
Over the past couple of years of taking support calls and emails, I've found displays are often off.
 
@MJ_Sharma - welcome to the Juiced in Seattle crew! There are a few of us around. 14 miles commuting each way... Redmond, perhaps? If so, I hope you're enjoying your traffic-proof commute as much as I do. FWIW - same observation here on the Marathon Plus tires in cold, wet weather. I have a Schwalbe Energizer on my front wheel now for better braking, and after a bad fall around New Year's will consider a more grippy rear tire for next winter.
 
Hello! I thought this might be a good place to find Seattle area Juiced riders. I’m researching the CCX. Would anyone be willing to let me test ride their CCX? I could travel to you, anywhere in the Puget Sound area.
Just starting my research... so far I’ve only test ridden Rad Power Bikes.
 
Hey MJ_Sharma, did you figure out anything about the mysterious decreasing odometer readings? I'm having a similar issue and I wonder if you were able to zero in on a cause.
 
Time for a short update:
I have been riding the bike everyday for my work commute (28 miles). Most of the days it was just freezing cold and last 2 days have been in heavy rain. The mileage is 206 now. Few observations.

1. Bike is really stable and I feel really feel confident on high speeds. Most of my trips are averaging 20 MPH even with 700 feet of climbing each way. 80 % of time I am in mode 2 or 3 if its dry and eco and 1 if its raining.
2. I sometime get an intermittent jerky feeling from the motor. This is not happening at any specific speed range for me to reproduce the problem. It may happen once or twice during each ride for 5-10 seconds and then things become smooth. Not sure this is common or one of behavior for my bike.
3. Tires are really slippery when the temperatures are near freezing. I had a minor crash at low speed and since then I take it extra slow if freezing.
4. I charge the battery till the green light shows up on the charger. The max voltage I see is 57.9 after every full charge. Is that the case with all you guys?

In summary, this bike is money well spent and I love it riding every day.
The display on my CCX shows 58 volts when fully charged but the battery is actually at 58.8 volts according to my multimeter reading taken directly from the battery pack.
 
42V Low Voltage cut off is 3V per cell for a 52V (14S) pack. That's quite conservative, and I don't see any reason to have the cutoff voltage any higher unless you really don't need the capacity of your battery pack. Most people will be charging it before the cut off anyway.
 
The display on my CCX shows 58 volts when fully charged but the battery is actually at 58.8 volts according to my multimeter reading taken directly from the battery pack.
Good, that is as it should be.
 
[....]
4. I charge the battery till the green light shows up on the charger. The max voltage I see is 57.9 after every full charge. Is that the case with all you guys?
[....]
You should leave it on the charger sometimes for a couple hours after the green light appears to give the BMS a chance to balance the cells. The 100% voltage should be 58.8V, and should match the maximum output voltage of your charger. The Voltage displayed on the LCD cannot be expected to be calibrated to a very high level, but it should be within .1V I would hope. Measure the battery voltage directly, bit also check the voltage after leaving the charger on the bike for a while. Everything is probably just fine, but good to know how much out your display is. The meter error should stay pretty constant for the voltage range between cutoff and max, so you can just mentally add the difference when it is important.
 
I set my low voltage to 45 volts which according to Juiced is 20%. 80% is 55 volts according to them. This is for the 52V CCX.

I haven't noticed the drop in odometer mileage but I don't look at it much. I use a separate Garmin Edge 500 for all stats.
Im new can you please explain why i should want lower voltage ? Will it extend battery life ?
I purchased a ccx currently im awaiting its delivery .
 
Im new can you please explain why i should want lower voltage ? Will it extend battery life ?
I purchased a ccx currently im awaiting its delivery .
It's not specific to Juiced -- it's just the nature of lithium batteries. I've seen different figures quoted by manufacturers, but the general idea is that the batteries last longer if you don't charge them all the way to 100% or let them discharge to below around 20%. Juiced recommends 80% and 20% but I don't think there's anything magical about those numbers. Just try not to charge all the way or discharge completely. If you do charge to 100% on occasion it's not that big a deal.

You'll get an idea how long to charge with a little experience. Generally, if my meter is down to 3 bars I'll charge for about 4 hours. If it's down to 4-5 bars, 3 to 3.5 hours. I don't believe I've gone below 3 bars with a little over 500 miles on my bike.
 
Back