First ebike- mixed use neighborhood and mountain trails

M

M200

New Member
Region
USA
I have done a lot of reading but I haven’t seen any easy to narrow down the choices to my preferences so has been a bit overwhelming. I would appreciate any advice to narrow down options.

61 yr old male casual rider trying to stay active and get more exercise in a hilly area

will mostly ride hilly roads, rail trails and some mountain trails in upstate NY a couple times a week.

what is my best mid drive option in the $2500-$3000 range with following preferences
- class 1 or removable throttle class 2 so I can ride in NY parks.
- I prefer 50 lb range. I test rode Rad bikes- too heavy and didn’t like the hub motor feel.
- Test rode a Townie go 8d and really liked the motor and natural feel and wider tires, but seems too upright for the trails.
-some of the trails are pretty steep so need a larger sprocket than Townie Go 8d.
-prefer a larger company so I can get service if beyond my abilities.
-hydraulic brakes would be a nice perk if possible.

thanks for your input!
M
 
M200 said:
will mostly ride hilly roads, rail trails and some mountain trails in upstate NY a couple times a week.
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Hi M, and welcome to EBR. I recently converted a couple of Giant Momentum Vidas that are super comfy, lightweight and can take some trails and will do big hills. For hills you will want the motor in the middle of the bike so the power goes through the gearing system. Here is a white bike that I just made and will sell this week for $2499. It has gravel tires. Maybe someone is doing quality conversions in your neighborhood. I am in the SF Bay Area. Good electric bikes look elegant and ride smoothly. These are class 3 but look class 1
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How about a Specialized Turbo Tero 3.0? It’s $250 over your stated price range but has 29” wheels and is made for trails (though not for aggressive or highly technical mountain biking). It also is class 1 with a mid motor and Specialized dealer support.
 
Thank you all for taking the time to give me input! I realize I am asking for a lot on low budget…
 
Hi. I am a 77 year old male and I too live in Upstate NY (Glens Falls area). I purchase an R&M Nevo 3 in November 2021 and am pleased. This bike wouldn't fit your budget, but I also considered a Gazelle, which is closer to your budget. I would you suggest two things: 1. Give serious consideration to a step through. You will find that the bike gets a bit higher every year. 2. If possible, purchase from a nearby bicycle store that has a good reputation. Good luck in finding the best fit for you.
 
M200 said:
I love the voice of experience! Thanks!
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It is worth checking out the Gazelle as mentioned by @Bill G. A comfortable bike that you do not need to lift your leg over is a good idea also. At least worth trying on a test ride. A cheep bike is like trying to save money by buying cheep razors.
 
You live in an area loaded with bike shops. (unlike where I live...). Why not focus on bikes that these shops have in stock? Unless you're a good DIYer, buying a bike from a local shop that will service it is a big plus. For example, the shop will help you find a seat that fits, perhaps a stem that puts the handlebars in a more comfortable position.
Another thing to consider is service and parts in the long term. You can already read stories on this board of folks hunting for parts for their bike when the "manufacturer" has already gone out of business. Better bikes tend to use brand name parts like Shimano derailleurs, for example.
There's a huge variety of ebikes these days. You need to find what works for you. You've already figured out that hub drives have limitations. You found that some cruiser style bikes are too upright. Build on this knowledge...
 
For climbing ability 10 or 11spd with 11-42t cassette. Alternatively cheaper 8-9spd and have chainring replaced with smaller 32-34t, will forego some top end speed but should still cruise comfortably at 20mph in top gear.
10-11spd bikes tend to have better components allround and more powerful motors.
 
TrevorB said:
For climbing ability 10 or 11spd with 11-42t cassette. Alternatively cheaper 8-9spd and have chainring replaced with smaller 32-34t, will forego some top end speed but should still cruise comfortably at 20mph in top gear.
10-11spd bikes tend to have better components allround and more powerful motors.
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10 and 11 speed cassettes not necessary for use on larger electric power. By necessity, they use a lighter chain. That's why you see so many 9 speeds, and even 7 would be plenty with the size of the chain ring chozen for your personal riding habits. These bigger Bafangs are torque monsters and rarely need the number of gears they are sold with (my opinion).
 
AHicks said:
10 and 11 speed cassettes not necessary for use on larger electric power. By necessity, they use a lighter chain. That's why you see so many 9 speeds, and even 7 would be plenty with the size of the chain ring chozen for your personal riding habits. These bigger Bafangs are torque monsters and rarely need the number of gears they are sold with (my opinion).
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Most of lower cost bikes with middrives from Bosch, Shimano, Brose and Yamaha have 50nm motors and 8-9spd. Go up in price and you get 60-70nm motors with 10spd. The higher quality 11-12spd chains actually have longer life if looked after still lot more expensive to replace than 8-9spd.
 
TrevorB said:
Most of lower cost bikes with middrives from Bosch, Shimano, Brose and Yamaha have 50nm motors and 8-9spd. Go up in price and you get 60-70nm motors with 10spd. The higher quality 11-12spd chains actually have longer life if looked after still lot more expensive to replace than 8-9spd.
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@indianajo you are laughing (I assume at the chain comment) but he's correct. 11-12 speed chains are perceived as weaker at a superficial glance, but their pins are shorter, which creates less leverage between the opposing plates. Ergo... stronger. They are known in the DIY community as lasting longer. Capable of taking abuse I never would have believed until I got a bike with an 11 spd drivetrain already on it and I kept it after putting in a 1750w sustained-output mid drive. And rode it on trails. and now it runs overland where there are no trails. Still the original chain.

High power mid drive reliability is all a function of the rider's level of ability to ride it properly, and their not cheaping out on appropriate parts that can take the punishment. In my case, a Sunrace CSMS7 all-steel 1-pc 11 spd cluster with underlying steel spiders. On top of a DT 350 hub with a steel cassette body. Last I had it apart at 1300 miles, no sign of any wear on the cassette body and the original chain - all 225 or so links of it - is still just fine.

After building two 11 speeds, I have gone back to 9-speed simply due to parts costs for the 11s stuff. A Microshift Advent drivetrain is $149 for derailleur, shifter+cable and 11-46t steel cluster. $25 for a SRAM EX1 chain. KMC 11s chain is more than double that.
 
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You are above my pay grade! Remember I am a casual rider and at my age not planning to be tackling punishing trails… just needing a decent quality level that will handle some moderate trails.
 
M200 said:
You are above my pay grade! Remember I am a casual rider and at my age not planning to be tackling punishing trails… just needing a decent quality level that will handle some moderate trails.
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Believe me if I had an on-point suggestion I would have made it. As one who builds his own I'm in a different world. I personally feel the Sondors MXS is a superior bike to many others out there, but its a hub drive and they have climbed in price to the point where its hard to justify the purchase. But with a powerful motor (even if it is a hub), hydro brakes and a huge battery among other things, they ticked a lot of boxes when they were competitively priced.
 
m@Robertson said:
@indianajo you are laughing (I assume at the chain comment) but he's correct. 11-12 speed chains are perceived as weaker at a superficial glance, but their pins are shorter, which creates less leverage between the opposing plates. Ergo... stronger. They are known in the DIY community as lasting longer. Capable of taking abuse I never would have believed until I got a bike with an 11 spd drivetrain already on it and I kept it after putting in a 1750w sustained-output mid drive.
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Unpowered road bike riders on roadbikereview.com were reporting 11 speed life chain of ~1000 miles. No trail grit in flat back drop handlebar bikes. My 8 speed KMC chain wore out at 5000 miles. 2 1/2 years. Never cleaned, oiled biweekly. No sprocket problems @ 8000 miles. Top that distance with your bike chain. Any other builders ride a bike 8000 miles?
 
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