Chazmo
Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Central Massachusetts
Hi gang,
I wrote the letter below to summarize my thoughts and information on fat ebikes to my eye doctor who’s interested in going down the same route I have. I thought I’d post it here to see if anyone feels there’s elaboration/correction I should make. I express a lot of my fairly novice personal opinions within, so of course you’re welcome to disagree with them. And I’m sure many of you will disagree with my recommendation(s), but I welcome any feedback especially if there’s any obvious brand/choice that I missed.
— letter follows —
I've been composing this for you regarding fat tire ebikes and it's taken me a while to put all my thoughts and info together for you. I hope this is of some value.
First of all, my actual experience is about a year in the making since I bought my bike direct from the manufacturer (Juiced Bikes) last year and assembled it at my house. After putting 1000mi on it through the summer, Juiced shut down and went away. So, I've become something of a do-it-yourself hobbyist now in order to fix my bike (it's had several problems needing surgery) and keep it running for a few years. I've had to buy parts online and even drive to NJ to pick up a spare bike for parts. It's been an adventure in many ways.
I really hadn't ridden my old mountain bike for about 5 years when I started getting excited as electrified fat tire (4"+ wide tires) bikes started getting popular. The whole concept really appealed to me. As a former avid mountain biker, I was interested in the relaxed mountain bike geometry and I knew it would suit me well. There are many other types of ebikes out there, including road, cargo, city-style bikes, and dirt bikes.
When shopping for fatties, there are a few key differences among the choices. Here's where things get dizzying and if you have any questions, just write back. Here's the list of considerations, in order.
1. Prices. All over the map. I paid about $1500 for the bike, new, from San Diego, and I've put about that much into it for a variety of upgrades from the factory and spare parts. My recommendation is for you to plan to spend between $1K and $2K to have a reasonable quality bike, but there are good reasons for spending more (I'll get there) if you know you're going to be in this for, say, 5 years or more. My opinion anyway.
2. Technology/Power. The most recent, bleeding-edge bikes offer 52V batteries and over 1000W of power (usually peaking around 2000). The previous generation (most of the bikes I'll recommend, below) use 48V batteries and give you 750W of power (usually peaking a little over 1000). For rear hub motor bikes I recommend going no less than 750W. For mid-drive you could go lower. And that brings me to the next consideration...
3. Rear hub motor vs. mid-drive. I'm going to recommend a rear hub motor drive for your fatty. But, technical riders and many others love mid-drives motors. There are good reasons for that. Essentially, the mid drive adds power to the pedal crank making you like a superman on the pedals. A hub motor assists with spinning the wheel independently of the crank/gears. Mid-drives are pedal-assist only whereas hub motors can power the bike without pedaling, and many/most come with a throttle. For my purposes, I almost never use the throttle (without pedaling) unless I'm crossing an intersection or just standing up on the bike to give my tush a break. I could certainly use/love a mid-drive, but I'm quite happy with the hub drive.
4. Step thru vs. not. It's quite a bit easier to handle a bike that has no top tube. Some of the bikes I'll point you at below are step thru, most aren't. Mine isn't. But I'll be honest that handling a 75 pound bike and kicking your leg over it while laying it over a little bit takes a bit of getting used to. You seem like a strong guy so it's probably not a necessity, but step thru would be easier to get used to.
5. Rear suspension vs hard-tail. All fatties have front suspension forks (of various quality). Mine was crappy and it broke so I had to replace it recently. Anyway, quality of the fork is definitely something to factor in. But, some bikes (not mine) are offered with full suspension (i.e., rear shock), and I think that's really cool. But, I'm a hard-tail kind of guy and even on my mountain bike I never went full suspension. Having said that, there are a few times that I've been bounced out of my saddle and that can be scary. If I have to buy another bike down the road I may go upscale and may include a full suspension.
6. 26" vs. 20" wheels. I'm just going to recommend getting 26" wheels to you as that's just more mountain-bike-like, but there are plenty of good smaller wheeled models (mostly 20") with 4"-wide tires that might fit the bill.
7. Folding vs. not. There are a number of fat ebikes that fold at the bottom bracket. These are cool, but still very heavy. That can be useful if you have a small storage area for the bike or if you want to put it in a vehicle without a rack. FYI, you'll need a special rack to transport a fatty on your car/truck unless you have another person to help you lift one of these monsters. I don't and I ride from my house every time.
8. Security. Not sure where you live or where you want to ride, but there's a lot of theft going on in the more urban areas. My bike came with a lock and key to remove the battery. It also came with a compartment in the battery to mount an Apple AirTag, which is a tracking device if you're not already familiar with those. I'm a huge fan of the AirTag!
OK, I've given you most of the facets you need to consider. Below is a list I've compiled of fat ebikes that I know about. There are MANY more out there, but here's where I have to warn you. If you buy direct, you may face a situation like I have where an established brand just vanishes off the face of the earth. So, it might be best to poll all the local bike shops and see if you can do test rides and see what they have. I'm still going to recommend direct sale and home delivery to you as that's still the way to get the best technology for a reasonable price. However, if you're willing to spend more for quality, local service then that's totally reasonable.
The most common bikes that I know of out there are the three listed below, which may not have local stores. I'm going to recommend that you shop Aventon, which is perhaps the most popular fat ebike that I know of around here (which is a good thing for parts and service) plus I think there's a shop in Ayer. The Rad is probably the best deal.
aventon: dealer in Ayer. https://www.aventon.com/products/aventure2-ebike?variant=42255489466563
rad: https://www.radpowerbikes.com/collections/fat-tire-electric-bikes radrover (very good deal)
Lectric: https://lectricebikes.com/
Some others that I know of that looked good:
velotric: https://www.velotricbike.com/products/velotric-nomad-1
himiway https://himiwaybike.com/pages/uscenter
Heybike brawn: https://www.heybike.com/products/heybike-brawn-electric-bike?variant=44052297482459
voltbike yukon: https://voltbike.com/products/yukon-750-limited
MS2 All terrain: https://shop.m2sbikes.com/collections/all-terrain-r750-series/products/all-terrain-electric-fat-bike
If you really want to go high-end, look at the Norco or Specialized. Specialized is not leading-edge technically, but they're extremely well-built, there are stores that carry them, and you'd have a Vado for a lifetime. The Norco is just awesome, but too expensive.
Norco bigfoot (expensive but nice components. (internal battery)
specialized vado (expensive and not bleeding edge) https://www.specialized.com/au/en/turbo-vado-30/p/206163?color=348376-206163
The final thing I want to mention is that the reason a lot of these brands are facing extinction is cheap, poor imports from China. If you look on Amazon, sure, you can get in on this craze for under $500, but these bikes will be in the trash in short order. Just my opinion. But, here for reference. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=ebike+fa...refix=ebike+fat+tire,aps,179&ref=nb_sb_noss_1
I wrote the letter below to summarize my thoughts and information on fat ebikes to my eye doctor who’s interested in going down the same route I have. I thought I’d post it here to see if anyone feels there’s elaboration/correction I should make. I express a lot of my fairly novice personal opinions within, so of course you’re welcome to disagree with them. And I’m sure many of you will disagree with my recommendation(s), but I welcome any feedback especially if there’s any obvious brand/choice that I missed.
— letter follows —
I've been composing this for you regarding fat tire ebikes and it's taken me a while to put all my thoughts and info together for you. I hope this is of some value.
First of all, my actual experience is about a year in the making since I bought my bike direct from the manufacturer (Juiced Bikes) last year and assembled it at my house. After putting 1000mi on it through the summer, Juiced shut down and went away. So, I've become something of a do-it-yourself hobbyist now in order to fix my bike (it's had several problems needing surgery) and keep it running for a few years. I've had to buy parts online and even drive to NJ to pick up a spare bike for parts. It's been an adventure in many ways.
I really hadn't ridden my old mountain bike for about 5 years when I started getting excited as electrified fat tire (4"+ wide tires) bikes started getting popular. The whole concept really appealed to me. As a former avid mountain biker, I was interested in the relaxed mountain bike geometry and I knew it would suit me well. There are many other types of ebikes out there, including road, cargo, city-style bikes, and dirt bikes.
When shopping for fatties, there are a few key differences among the choices. Here's where things get dizzying and if you have any questions, just write back. Here's the list of considerations, in order.
1. Prices. All over the map. I paid about $1500 for the bike, new, from San Diego, and I've put about that much into it for a variety of upgrades from the factory and spare parts. My recommendation is for you to plan to spend between $1K and $2K to have a reasonable quality bike, but there are good reasons for spending more (I'll get there) if you know you're going to be in this for, say, 5 years or more. My opinion anyway.
2. Technology/Power. The most recent, bleeding-edge bikes offer 52V batteries and over 1000W of power (usually peaking around 2000). The previous generation (most of the bikes I'll recommend, below) use 48V batteries and give you 750W of power (usually peaking a little over 1000). For rear hub motor bikes I recommend going no less than 750W. For mid-drive you could go lower. And that brings me to the next consideration...
3. Rear hub motor vs. mid-drive. I'm going to recommend a rear hub motor drive for your fatty. But, technical riders and many others love mid-drives motors. There are good reasons for that. Essentially, the mid drive adds power to the pedal crank making you like a superman on the pedals. A hub motor assists with spinning the wheel independently of the crank/gears. Mid-drives are pedal-assist only whereas hub motors can power the bike without pedaling, and many/most come with a throttle. For my purposes, I almost never use the throttle (without pedaling) unless I'm crossing an intersection or just standing up on the bike to give my tush a break. I could certainly use/love a mid-drive, but I'm quite happy with the hub drive.
4. Step thru vs. not. It's quite a bit easier to handle a bike that has no top tube. Some of the bikes I'll point you at below are step thru, most aren't. Mine isn't. But I'll be honest that handling a 75 pound bike and kicking your leg over it while laying it over a little bit takes a bit of getting used to. You seem like a strong guy so it's probably not a necessity, but step thru would be easier to get used to.
5. Rear suspension vs hard-tail. All fatties have front suspension forks (of various quality). Mine was crappy and it broke so I had to replace it recently. Anyway, quality of the fork is definitely something to factor in. But, some bikes (not mine) are offered with full suspension (i.e., rear shock), and I think that's really cool. But, I'm a hard-tail kind of guy and even on my mountain bike I never went full suspension. Having said that, there are a few times that I've been bounced out of my saddle and that can be scary. If I have to buy another bike down the road I may go upscale and may include a full suspension.
6. 26" vs. 20" wheels. I'm just going to recommend getting 26" wheels to you as that's just more mountain-bike-like, but there are plenty of good smaller wheeled models (mostly 20") with 4"-wide tires that might fit the bill.
7. Folding vs. not. There are a number of fat ebikes that fold at the bottom bracket. These are cool, but still very heavy. That can be useful if you have a small storage area for the bike or if you want to put it in a vehicle without a rack. FYI, you'll need a special rack to transport a fatty on your car/truck unless you have another person to help you lift one of these monsters. I don't and I ride from my house every time.
8. Security. Not sure where you live or where you want to ride, but there's a lot of theft going on in the more urban areas. My bike came with a lock and key to remove the battery. It also came with a compartment in the battery to mount an Apple AirTag, which is a tracking device if you're not already familiar with those. I'm a huge fan of the AirTag!
OK, I've given you most of the facets you need to consider. Below is a list I've compiled of fat ebikes that I know about. There are MANY more out there, but here's where I have to warn you. If you buy direct, you may face a situation like I have where an established brand just vanishes off the face of the earth. So, it might be best to poll all the local bike shops and see if you can do test rides and see what they have. I'm still going to recommend direct sale and home delivery to you as that's still the way to get the best technology for a reasonable price. However, if you're willing to spend more for quality, local service then that's totally reasonable.
The most common bikes that I know of out there are the three listed below, which may not have local stores. I'm going to recommend that you shop Aventon, which is perhaps the most popular fat ebike that I know of around here (which is a good thing for parts and service) plus I think there's a shop in Ayer. The Rad is probably the best deal.
aventon: dealer in Ayer. https://www.aventon.com/products/aventure2-ebike?variant=42255489466563
rad: https://www.radpowerbikes.com/collections/fat-tire-electric-bikes radrover (very good deal)
Lectric: https://lectricebikes.com/
Some others that I know of that looked good:
velotric: https://www.velotricbike.com/products/velotric-nomad-1
himiway https://himiwaybike.com/pages/uscenter
Heybike brawn: https://www.heybike.com/products/heybike-brawn-electric-bike?variant=44052297482459
voltbike yukon: https://voltbike.com/products/yukon-750-limited
MS2 All terrain: https://shop.m2sbikes.com/collections/all-terrain-r750-series/products/all-terrain-electric-fat-bike
If you really want to go high-end, look at the Norco or Specialized. Specialized is not leading-edge technically, but they're extremely well-built, there are stores that carry them, and you'd have a Vado for a lifetime. The Norco is just awesome, but too expensive.
Norco bigfoot (expensive but nice components. (internal battery)
specialized vado (expensive and not bleeding edge) https://www.specialized.com/au/en/turbo-vado-30/p/206163?color=348376-206163
The final thing I want to mention is that the reason a lot of these brands are facing extinction is cheap, poor imports from China. If you look on Amazon, sure, you can get in on this craze for under $500, but these bikes will be in the trash in short order. Just my opinion. But, here for reference. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=ebike+fa...refix=ebike+fat+tire,aps,179&ref=nb_sb_noss_1