DPC-18 controller wiring lights

[Gr3]

I just got this controller and mid drive and was wondering how you connect your front ant rear light wiring. I haven't installed yet trying to make sure first I have everything.

 

[stanmiller]

I have a Bafang DPC-18 and it signals the bike controller to turn the light on/off, but the leads that physcially power the light comes from the bike controller.

 

[Gr3]

Is it one of the round plugs just for lights?

 

[stanmiller]

See the attached picture. It shows a rear hub setup, but the mid drive should be similar.

The DPC-18 display cable, keypad cable, and brake cut-offs are aggregated through the a main cable and fed into the bike controller. The controller exposes wires to connect to the bike light. When you press the keypad light button it signals the bike controller through the main cable and the controller switches the light on/off.

** Update ** Looking at an image of the mid-drive cabling I don't see any outbound leads for a light? That might explain your predicament.

 

[Gr3]

I found 2 wires from motor that looks like they are for lights.
Thanks

 

[stanmiller]

Cool. And I just found this. See attached.

So you could probably split it so it powers both front and rear lights.

 

[Gr3]

Wonder if there is enough power for front and rear LED light?

 

[mbouck]

Wonder if there is enough power for front and rear LED light?

The answer to that is no. The Bafang lighting outputs are rated 6V @ 500mA. Is it enough to run very basic, not particularly bright lights? Barely. Can you run brighter lights with it? Maybe? You'll certainly pull more than 500mA...caveat emptor. I'm currently implementing a solution on my Bafang-powered bike which uses the 6V as a control signal to toggle a optically-isolated solid state relay. The relay, in turn, taps off the main battery (through a 2.5A polyfuse) - the net effect is you can send 48V straight to your lights and still control them with the controller. This is also superior in that you'll pull less amps through those skinny wires at a higher voltage.

 

[tomjasz]

Better to add lighting like Roxim that ties into the battery power. My lights runoff36v and 48v batteries.

 

[tomjasz]

The answer to that is no. The Bafang lighting outputs are rated 6V @ 500mA. Is it enough to run very basic, not particularly bright lights? Barely. Can you run brighter lights with it? Maybe? You'll certainly pull more than 500mA...caveat emptor. I'm currently implementing a solution on my Bafang-powered bike which uses the 6V as a control signal to toggle a optically-isolated solid state relay. The relay, in turn, taps off the main battery (through a 2.5A polyfuse) - the net effect is you can send 48V straight to your lights and still control them with the controller. This is also superior in that you'll pull less amps through those skinny wires at a higher voltage.

One of the dumbest additions to the BBSxx series. Worse yet a cheap jst connector. I apologize when Bafang ships them. I suggest my customers stuff itintoa heat shrink tube and fill with silicone just before heating. Eliminatethe dumb thing and the chance of a short. Get a proper headlight. Preferably StVZO.

 

[mbouck]

See this post for how I wired my lights to the Bafang controller.

 

[eBikeaholic]

Has anyone tried running a 4 watt light through the Bafang light cable? I'm considering the Lezyne e-bike mini stvzo E65. It says "E-bike compatible 6 – 12v input, 4w". https://amzn.to/3tWiK5y

Closest I can find to 3w so far. That would pull about 667mA, right? ... is 167mA enough to cause problems? If so what problems are we looking at - melted wires, burnt controller, battery pack issues?

 

[tomjasz]

I wish Bafang would stop with the wimpy light leads. 5v lights are fine. Just weak.

 

[Gionnirocket]

Has anyone tried running a 4 watt light through the Bafang light cable? I'm considering the Lezyne e-bike mini stvzo E65. It says "E-bike compatible 6 – 12v input, 4w". https://amzn.to/3tWiK5y

Closest I can find to 3w so far. That would pull about 667mA, right? ... is 167mA enough to cause problems? If so what problems are we looking at - melted wires, burnt controller, battery pack issues?

That's near 35% over its rating.
My guess is that you could burn out that portion of the circuit, but there is a million ways this can be done internally so I personally would not risk it. Possible the same 5v source is what is used to power the controls such as throttle and hand break motor cut out.
Your best bet is to do a battery tap and then you can pretty much use any light you want. If you still want to control it through the display you can use a simple 5v relay with the Bafang wires. I went with separate switches as I wanted a horn as well.

 

[tomjasz]

That's near 35% over its rating.
My guess is that you could burn out that portion of the circuit, but there is a million ways this can be done internally so I personally would not risk it. Possible the same 5v source is what is used to power the controls such as throttle and hand break motor cut out.
Your best bet is to do a battery tap and then you can pretty much use any light you want. If you still want to control it through the display you can use a simple 5v relay with the Bafang wires. I went with separate switches as I wanted a horn as well.

No problem in my experience. Just wimpy. I prefer a higher power light with a tap. I can make a tap with nearly every commonly used connector.

 

[Nashville615]

Use the 5v as a source to trigger a relay and drive whatever you want to a separate battery supply.

 

[tomjasz]

Use the 5v as a source to trigger a relay and drive whatever you want to a separate battery supply.

Interesting idea. But I got tired of maintaining a separate battery. I’m thinking your solution is best suited to a commuter needing to not lose mileage running better lights. I had a led cluster the lit up the night when wanted but went Stvzo tapped into main battery leads.