Can I DIY my bike into an ebike if I have never DIY'd anything before?

[DaveinMtAiry]

IMO, a DIY conversion is not much cheaper than simply buying a ready-built bike. Most think that going this route to save money is a folly. In the beginning that was my goal, and then I found out what they were telling me was reality. YMMV

The extra speed and weight of the added components make disc brakes a necessity. Again, more or less a consensus.
If the bike has a carbon fork I would not put a hub-drive on it - they are simply not designed for the added stresses of a hub drive, even a disc brake conversion. A snapped fork leg is a recipe for disaster.

The kits are all fine and dandy as long as everything works. If it fails you'll need to be able to troubleshoot, or have a tech that can support you. Some domestic suppliers have pretty good phone tech support, how-to, and warranty coverage, imported items generally do not. In the end it tends to fall on the end user to figure it out.

Ours was working great for the first 3-400 miles, then the motor quit. I spent a couple of months troubleshooting and waiting for warranty parts, and that was a china supplier with a US contracted tech support arm. We got tired of waiting and just bought a really nice ready-built ebike for her. Will make ya a helluva deal on a conversion - 500w hubdrive, disc brakes, steel fork. LOL Currently it's a spare bike, but with so much demand for bikes right now I may opt to sell it.

The most expensive component on any conversion is the battery pack. Ya gots ta pay ta play.

Thanks for the reply. A low end bike would be something like an Ancer at $650 and would be problematic I would think. As I have a Giant hybrid that I no longer use, I can buy a conversion kit for $300. It won't get a lot of use but I'd like to have one for her for the occasional ride. But it does not have disc breaks and wondering if that is essential, she will be under 20 MPH for sure with few hills.

 

[osric]

I’ve been looking to add an ebike kit to my Cetma Cargo and David at Eco Cycles was extremely helpful in putting together the appropriate setup... then the pandemic hit so I stoped spending any money and never ordered it.

I only have remedial bike repair skills, and when it comes to taking apart a bottom bracket I go to my local LBS. The tool kit mentioned above looks like a good starting point for DIY repairs.

And there’s a great bike repair app I’ve been using to learn how to work on my bikes: https://bicyclemaintenanceguide.com/

 

[EMGX]

If your wife likes the Giant Hybrid and it has good brakes why not use that bike? I don't understand why some are so adamant that disc brakes are necessary. I have had bikes with excellent rim brakes as well as a couple with disc brakes that aren't as good. The disc brakes on my BH/Emotion gravel bike are OK but nothing to write home about and that bike retailed at $3,300. In contrast I have a cheap non-assist Walmart Schwinn Avenue Hybrid with excellent rim brakes. Overloaded with camping gear I had the Schwinn up to over a terrifying 38mph on down hills doing a ride in eastern Oregon a couple weeks ago. the brakes worked fine and were the least of my concerns at that speed. A geared hub motor with battery adds maybe 15 pounds so the extra weight shouldn't make much, if any, difference. If your wife is an occasional recreational rider she probably rides at 15mph or less which shouldn't pose a problem with brakes either.

Regarding aluminum vs steel fork, personally I would stick to steel but YMMV. Even with a low power MXUS 36v 250W I used a torque arm also. The MXUS was adequate for my wife on flats but I live in a hilly area and it wouldn't pull strong grades and she prefers a regular non assist bike for riding on flat routes anyway so the assist isn't needed and the extra weight of the kit isn't appreciated.

I would be sure to have brake levers with motor cut offs.

 

[AHicks]

Thanks for the reply. A low end bike would be something like an Ancer at $650 and would be problematic I would think. As I have a Giant hybrid that I no longer use, I can buy a conversion kit for $300. It won't get a lot of use but I'd like to have one for her for the occasional ride. But it does not have disc breaks and wondering if that is essential, she will be under 20 MPH for sure with few hills.

I can pretty much guarantee a 300 dollar conversion kit is NOT going to include the price of a battery.

I would not build, ride, or expect somebody else to ride, an e-bike without disc brakes.

If nothing else, a kit bike is a learning experience! In many cases, a lesson in how NOT to buy an e-bike....

 

[EMGX]

Do what works best for you according to your preference and experience. There are too many variables for dogma to universally apply.

 

[DaveinMtAiry]

I can pretty much guarantee a 300 dollar conversion kit is NOT going to include the price of a battery.

I would not build, ride, or expect somebody else to ride, an e-bike without disc brakes.

If nothing else, a kit bike is a learning experience! In many cases, a lesson in how NOT to buy an e-bike....

You are correct, I really should have realized the kit does not come with a battery. The Giant was mine, she has a cheaper bike. In looking at the Giant it's just going to be too big for her. I was kind of hoping this would work as it would have also given me a smaller bike to use as well. I have a Bixtrix Juggernaught and it's a tank, I'd like a 2nd smaller bike to take on trips. But this won't work apparently, thanks for the input.

 

[indianajo]

But it does not have disc breaks and wondering if that is essential, she will be under 20 MPH for sure with few hills.

Rim brakes suffer 80% performance degrade after running through a puddle. Heavy rain can do it too. I've hated rim brakes since they bacame mandetory about 1968, and now there is an alternative: disk brakes do work in the rain. I have tektro mechanical disks and they stop fine 330 lb gross on 15% downgrades.
Crimping terminals on wires is much easier to do right than soldering. both kits I bought required terminals to be installed on the battery or motor power wires. Tool must be klein, ideal, or bulldog, no ****ese imitations. Crimp must be pull tested after installation to prove quality. And on 30 amp circuits like the battery, terminals from ***** melt out. Buy terminals from Ideal, T&B, Panduit, 3M,TE connectivity (formerly AMP) or easiest to get at Oreilly's auto supply, dorman.
The battery I bought that worked (from lunacycle) had XT90 & XT60 connections which have to be soldered. They did a good job soldering but I didn't on the other end, since the controllers required .157" bullett or .250" spade lug or fork terminals. After my XT60 connection failed out at my summer camp where I don't keep a 130W soldering iron, I replaced it with insulated .250" flag terminals, that I do have out there.

 

[Sierratim]

Hi, basically how skilled do you have to be.
I can read directions and that's about it. I know solder means to melt two wires together?
That's what we're dealing with here.

Something to think about, https://road.cc/content/news/fire-service-called-out-diy-e-bike-fire-274933 .

 

[byunbee]

You might be better off with ordering a Swytch kit. It’s supposed to be a no brainer.
https://www.swytchbike.com/p/universal-ebike-conversion-kit/

 

[JES2020]

I just finished putting a kit on my doner Trek. I have prety good trouble shooting skills and this job did put them to the test.
Personally I expected there to be much more instruction...I got none.
That being said, I really enjoy working on technical and mechanical stuff, so it was real rewarding when I finished (3-4 hours) and was feeling the power of that 1500w motor/48v 20ah battery. Can't buy that kind of power in a ready made for $800.

 

[AHicks]

Congratulations! Good to hear it worked out for you.